If I keep trying it throughout the day on max power etc. or do I need something with more muscles?
[Edited on 2/9/08 by Benzine]
I'm trying to undo the crankshaft nut on my Volvo engine at the moment. It undoes anti-clockwise (I found that out just to eliminate that I
wasn't undoing it the wrong way) This nut is tiiiiiiiiiiiiight. I've sprayed an ocean of penetrating spray all over/around it and tried a
huge breaker bar and an impact air gun. Do I have any chance of getting it off with something like this:
If I keep trying it throughout the day on max power etc. or do I need something with more muscles?
[Edited on 2/9/08 by Benzine]
Have you tried any heat on it at all??
i got 1 £10 one off ebay and was amazed when it got my sierra rear hub nuts off, looks like they hadnt been off in about 20 years aswell.
it too about 15 secs for it to start moving but wasnt too bad.
quote:
Originally posted by Paul TigerB6
Have you tried any heat on it at all??
Get the nut HOT.....then let it cool right down....
Then get it HOT again, and when its cooled a bit....big breaker bar and hammer...
And then throw the nut in the bin!
have you got an impact gun? they can shock the nut but sounds like yours is on very tight.
I assume engine is out of the car?
on land rovers, common practise is to wedge the breaker bar under the chasssis railthen use the starter - presumably you cannot do something like
that?
else it is breaker bar and a long scaffolding pole - risk is you may break the breaker bar or socket.
if it accessible, then drill small holes into the nut to try to split it so it releases grip, then breaker bar - may work out the cheaper option.
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
I assume engine is out of the car?
on land rovers, common practise is to wedge the breaker bar under the chasssis railthen use the starter - presumably you cannot do something like that?
Second drilling it and cracking. Worked for me on my ST clutch nut (torqued to 110Nm!!)....
How do I go about drilling it? Picture of the nut is here:
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8194/pulley1th3.jpg
If I take my radiator off (no problem as there's no water in it yet) then I can get perfect access. What kind of drill bits would you use/size
etc and where would you drill, how many holes etc
So the nut is basically like so:
Many thanks for the help so far
[Edited on 2/9/08 by Benzine]
I'd use HSS drill bits (ie bog standard drills). I'd measure the thickness of the nut and put depth stops on the bits (ie wrap a bit of masking tape around them at that depth) to stop you drilling into whatever is behind the nut. Then start with a small drill, drill in the middle of the blue bit (it doesn't matter where). Slowly use bigger bits until you've drilled through the outside of the nut and almost the inside then put in a chisel, wallop it. The nut should spring open enough to release it's grip. Then use a spanner as normal....
How big is your breaker bar? My dad welded a 1/2 inch scoket extension to 6ft scafold pole... that never fails to get a any nut off.
My breaker bar is the best part of a meter long, I'll keep an eye out for pipe/poles that can slide over it to extend it
One way that can work is just to knock it undone with a cold chisel and a big hammer - just bash away at the corners of the nut. The shocks seem to
help getting it started.
Replace it once it's off obviously as it's a bit agricultural.
Air gun is a possibility but this one in the link is sure to get it off given enough air.
Linky to monster gun.
whoah! hold on there! whatever happened with locking the crankshaft so that it doesnt turn with the nut? therefore allowing to exert more torque to
get it loose?
thats what i did to undo the nut in mine...
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Linky to monster gun.
quote:
Originally posted by robertst
whoah! hold on there! whatever happened with locking the crankshaft so that it doesnt turn with the nut? therefore allowing to exert more torque to get it loose?
I've not found anything on a car I couldn't get off if I had enough room to get a 1m breaker bar on it 
Support the socket end of the bar
with an axle stand, put some/lots of pressure near the end of the bar (stand on it), and whack the end of the bar down with a big hammer, so
you're applying both constant torque and a shock torque to the bolt at the same time. Something will give in, hopefully the bolt 
quote:
Originally posted by martyn_16v
I've not found anything on a car I couldn't get off if I had enough room to get a 1m breaker bar on it
If its anything like the Crank bolt on the Vauxhall Xe engine then drilling it won't do alot as its bloody hard stuff!.
Its torqued up to something stupid like 240 or 320NM and some degree's!.
I tried a mechanics large Snap-on air wrench on that and it still couldn't shift it, eventually with a really good quality socket, a long breaker
bar and a heavy assistant it came off.
I had also used some "freeze and release" spray it uses the same principle as heating it up only in the opposite way so you can use it in
more confined places and don't melt any pully dampers or anything else. I'm sure I saw the stuff for sale in Halfords the other week.
Ahahaaaa looks like we couldn't have timed our previous posts better!
One trick I have used to remove valve seats from bike heads without damage (to the head) is to run a bead of weld around the inside of the seat ,
which shrinks when cool and the seats just fall out
How about welding an old socket to the nut , and undo it before it cools completely ?
take the starter motor out and jam a pry bar into the ring gear to stop the flywheel turning slip a tube over the breaker and pull .i do this at work if the guns cant shift it and our 3/4 gun does 600lb/ft
heat red hot (nut only) then cold water , it should come off then , dont turn it clockwise though like colin advised !!!
Similar to the other 2. The crank nut on my dads old Corsa diesel engine beat me. Stripped the teeth off the timing belt had to be towed to a garage through morning rush hour and the only thing that the garage could get it off with was a very strong windy gun.
If the car's driveable can you take it to a garage and get them to gun the nut off and then just do it up lightly with a small bar. then you can go home and do your stuff.
oxy is definately the way to go. The nut will come off remarkably easy. May be worth the investment or else take the car to a local engineering place to get it loosened as previously said and drive it home.
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
if it accessible, then drill small holes into the nut to try to split it so it releases grip, then breaker bar - may work out the cheaper option.
Have you tried stitch drilling a row of holes on one of the six faces (from front to back) and then whacking it with a cold chisel?
John
HI mate, where abouts are you? iam used to undoing tight bolts as i work for JCB? i have a big 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 400 foot pound snap on bolt gun, iam in leicester if i can be any help,
quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
Have you tried stitch drilling a row of holes on one of the six faces (from front to back) and then whacking it with a cold chisel?
quote:
Originally posted by car builder
HI mate, where abouts are you? iam used to undoing tight bolts as i work for JCB? i have a big 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 400 foot pound snap on bolt gun, iam in leicester if i can be any help,
Starter motor is the normal trade way of doing it.
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Starter motor is the normal trade way of doing it.
iam in narborough. i can pop out may be friday night or sunday night if u are still struggling.
quote:
Originally posted by car builder
iam in narborough. i can pop out may be friday night or sunday night if u are still struggling.
I may be in touch then if I can't shift it in the next few days !
no problem, just let me know how u get on.
Is this a 960 engine? I'd be interested to know how the whole project goes because I have an M reg 960 estate 24V which might possibly end up
that way.
John
quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
Is this a 960 engine? I'd be interested to know how the whole project goes because I have an M reg 960 estate 24V which might possibly end up that way.
John
Chock wheels, stick it in fourth with breaker and long pole.
Works wonders on the rear hub nuts on the old shape beetle.
quote:
Originally posted by Michael
Chock wheels, stick it in fourth with breaker and long pole.
Works wonders on the rear hub nuts on the old shape beetle.
quote:
Originally posted by Michael
Chock wheels, stick it in fourth with breaker and long pole.
Works wonders on the rear hub nuts on the old shape beetle.
Just a thought --- has it got a locking tab ?
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Just a thought --- has it got a locking tab ?
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
However the starter method always works provided the power bar isn't jammed too tightly against the chassis ie has enough motion to make an impact to shock the nut/bolt loose.
quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
if it accessible, then drill small holes into the nut to try to split it so it releases grip, then breaker bar - may work out the cheaper option.
I just got some drill bits from town. A 2mm metal drill went through it like butter! So I made 6 holes round it. I've been applying penetrating spray over the last few days (how does that stuff work btw?)
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by martyn_16v
I've not found anything on a car I couldn't get off if I had enough room to get a 1m breaker bar on it
Only one thing ever defeated me...and it was the crank pulley bolt on my Astra GTE (20XE). Broke two sockets and after buying a decent one I broke my Britool breaker bar and never budged it.
Here's the dirty little fecker!
A million thanks to car builder for coming over with his snap on electric impact wrench. What a bit of kit!