Hi all
I'm slowly rebuilding a Rover V8 and i have come to the bit where i need to worry about replacing the cam. The old cam isn't too bad but the
timing chain is as slack as a you know what. I have seen several Cam kits advertised by RPI and the like, but these cost nearly £300 so my question is
can you just buy the cam, a new chain and use the old hydraulic tappets or is this a recipe for disaster
Thanks
Julian Brewer
On a budget
never reuse old tappets with a new cam unless they are roller followers (you cant get these for a rover v8) as the old followers will wipe the new cam out in a few hundred miles.
try" real steel",cowley west london
Yeah as tim says, always replace cam and followers together. I've seen some pictures of almost perfectly dished (edge to edge) followers and
rounded cam lobes. The engine barely ran, but once the cam gear was replaced it was fine.
Timf, any idea why roller followers aren't available?
Julian,
If the cam/followers are ok, just get a timing chain and gears. Three items from Rimmers is about £35.
ATB
Simon
quote:
Originally posted by mackie
Timf, any idea why roller followers aren't available?
Ouch!
I see your point!
Hopefully ours won't need any work at all but it's nice to know that the chain and sprocket aren't much. How much for the duplex kit?
Rimmerbros.co.uk
Part Number RB7449
Description ROLLER T/CHAIN KIT
Retail Price £135.13 inc. VAT (£115.00 exc. VAT)
Exchange
Surcharge None
V8tuner.co.uk
Duplex - Cloyes True Timing Chain set
All steel duplex (2 chains) timing set complete. Steel gears are balanced and hardened to Rockwell 'C' standards. Will maintain accurate cam
timing for longer. Also reduces friction = more power !!!
£81.95
Both inclusive of VAT.
Have a look at their sites to check suitability etc.
ATB
Simon
simon
we were talking about roller followers not roller timing chains
ie
Rescued attachment crn-35532-16_m.jpg
Timf, I asked in my previous post about duplex timing chain costs 
[Edited on 5/12/03 by mackie]
opps sorry
that will teach me to fully read the prior posts won't it
Thanks for the info
RPI sorted me out with a Piper fast road cam, timing chain and sprockets, hydraulic followers, valve springs and shims for £250+vat
Not bad i think
Cheers
Julian,
Does that £293.75 include delivery
ATB
Simon
Post 666 HAHAHA
It includes delivery but not any gaskets as i have already purchased from them a complete gasket set
Cheers
Julian,
While you're in there are you going to replace the oil pump? I think it is quite cheap. Just make sure you prime it with the magic tool or pack
it with petroleum jelly so that it can prime itself. Sorry if you alrady know this but better safe than sorry...
Cheers,
Craig.
Hi Craig
Yes i have had the oil pump apart for a visual inspection and it all looks fine (no major scoring or wear etc) I have read about packing the thing
with Petroleum jelly but i have no idea what that is. It sounds like something you get from Boots or is my mind going of track here. The last thing i
want to do is go to my local motor factors and ask for a bug tub of KY. That would give them a real excuse to call me a MERCHANT BANKER!
On a more serious note dose packing the oil pump with said gunk not clog the oil filter on start up?
Thanks again
petroleum jelly = vaseline
I think KY and Petroleum Jelly do have some things in common but I wouldn't use the former in my oil pump... 
As far as I know the petroleum jelly will break down very quickly once it heats up and will be diluted completely by the oil. I don't know if
there are any issues with synthetic oils but mineral oils should be fine and IIRC most folk recommend using a good quality mineral oil after an engine
rebuild anyway. You should change the oil soon after a rebuild as there are usually contaminants which clog up your filter and degrade the oil quicker
than normal to begin with. If you are worried then prime the oil pump with the electric drill method. This involves driving the oil pump which is
accessible through the aperture that the distributor comes out of. Mark the position of the dizzy and remove it then make up a tool to attach a drill
to the little slotted drive thingy at the bottom of the aperture. You could use some 13mm round bar with a slot cut in it to suit the drive slot. Then
just spin it up in an electric drill until you see oil weeping from the rocker shaft oilways (rocker cover open of course). Refit the dizzy and align
the mark you made to get rought timing. You can buy a tool from Rimmer Bros for this if you don't want to make one and this is a recommended
procedure by the way...
Also, with your new cam, did you get a bottle of cam lube? I got this with a piper cam kit for a mini a few years ago and it is a very sticky thick
lubricant which is reputed to protect the cam in the early stages of its life when the followers and cam are bedding in. Mine was red and reminded me
of the raspberry sauce you get on ice cream. Just pour it liberally over the camshaft and followers as they are installed.
HTH,
Craig.
[Edited on 6/12/2003 by craig1410]
quote:
Originally posted by craig1410
I think KY and Petroleum Jelly do have some things in common but I wouldn't use the former in my oil pump...
I don't know quite how to respond to that so I won't...
Don't worry, I only use it on my feet when I play squash to avoid blisters. (Vaseline that is)
As you said, back to engines...
Cheers,
Craig.