Craig
What additional parts should I ensure I get when buying a 2l zetec from someone breaking a mondeo?
How do I ensure I'm not buying a stolen engine apart from checking the engine number against the V5?
How much should I expect to pay for a 94-95 2l zetec with reasonable miles?
Can I use the standard engine management in a locost?
Dont wanna hijack your post but what work is involved fitting a zetec as well?
Craig
AFAIK to turn a zetec from transverse to longitudinal a water rail is required to reposition the thermostat housing from the rear of the engine to the
side. The raceline rail costs £135.32.
It may also be necessary to fit a baffled sump.
I'm sure there are loads of other things too but I haven't researched in detail yet.
First of all, the race line over priced bit of pipe is not required, as you can easily run a bit of stainless up the side of the engine for about a
tenth of the price and use the standard thermostat. Secondaly the baffold sump or at least a shorted sump probably of a escort would be required as I
have fitted mine, and there is no way I could use it as I have about an inch and half of ground clearance DOH.
Gearbox, a type 9 and MT75 will bolt straight on, clutch is fairly simple, loads of combinations of friction plate,back plate and release bear have
been used.
The zetec either has a massive plastic plenum chamber that come done the way or one that comes up and over the top of the engine although I think this
was just in the escorts. Anyway this will need replacing either, (unless you could make it left hand drive or fly by wire...) with throttle bodies,
carbs, or a fabricated plenum chamber might be worth looking at the other thread on this page Zetec inlet manifold. This will of course decided what
engine management you will require. I think it is unlikely that you will be able to use the standard ECU.
As for the question of what other bits you should take of the mondeo I cannot see anything other than the engine, maybe the wiring loom, altenator,
take the heater hoses, anything else you can hide at the bottom of your tool box.
Starter will need to be changed to a Sierra type as the zetec is at the wrong side for the gearbox, this will involve some creative grinding of the
sump fins. I used a 2.0 DOHC starter.
Fabricate engine mounts.
Prop shaft to suit.
Just to put you in the picture I will give you a rough idea of how much I have spent.
New engine £400
Altenator £20
Starter £20
45 DCOE £160
Webcon ignition. £200
Type 9 Gearbox £25
Shorten prop £75
Inlet manifold £60
Clutch £50
Engine mounts £10
Various stuff £40
As you can see it will soon mount up, I am sure there are people out there who have spent less, and some that have spent much more. Still better not
let the misses see how much I have spent.
I am not in anyway trying to put you of as once you have completed it you will have a fast reliable car with spares for the forseeable future,
but..... there is a lot of work involved.
Good luck.
Another one for your list:
The common solution is to dump the air con and power steering, this then means that if you use the easiest drive belt configuration that the water
pump will be driven by the grooved side of the belt and thus rotate the wrong way. Soulution is to fit an escort water pump Quinten Hazell part number
QCP2889.
Easy way to tell the difference between an escort pump and a mondeo one, the port on the escort one comes out parrallel to the drive flange the mondeo
one comes out at an angle. There is a photo of an escort one on my website.
You will also need a grooved drive pulley and if anyone knows where to get one of these I'd be glad of the info.
Mick
Good point mix, forgot about that, I got round the problem by mounting the altenator on the exhaust side, facing the wrong way so that the standard water pump could be used, and it also allowed me to centralise the engine.
this might explain what I am talking about
Rescued attachment alternator.jpg
If you get a pre 95 engine the standard sump will need to be baffled and if chopped to give better ground clearence the pick up may need to be
altered, the starter from the Sierra will bolt straight on without touching th sump. The biggest cost is the ECU and fueling, take you time with this
and get as much info as you can about all the options and if poss try and get a drive in a zetec car. At the end of the day this will make the biggest
difference to how the car drives. Don't bother with the raceline water rail, stick as close to the Ford cooling system using their thermostat and
bypass system which is very simple (there is a picture of the pipe run on my archive) and the car will run at the correct temp which is very
important. See if you can hear the engine running before you buy which should be poss if coming from a breakers, cost should be £350-£400 ish, dont
worry about the miles too much if you can hear it running. Grab the standard alternator as if can be used, the coil pack and loom connector and any
odd pipes that may come in useful.
[Edited on 28/11/03 by zetec]
Big Stu,
Do you have any more pictures of this setup?
Stephen
quote:
Originally posted by Big Stu
Good point mix, forgot about that, I got round the problem by mounting the altenator on the exhaust side, facing the wrong way so that the standard water pump could be used, and it also allowed me to centralise the engine.
quote:
Originally posted by zetec
If you get a pre 95 engine the standard sump will need to be baffled and if chopped to give better ground clearence the pick up may need to be altered, the starter from the Sierra will bolt straight on without touching th sump. The biggest cost is the ECU and fueling, take you time with this and get as much info as you can about all the options and if poss try and get a drive in a zetec car. At the end of the day this will make the biggest difference to how the car drives. Don't bother with the raceline water rail, stick as close to the Ford cooling system using their thermostat and bypass system which is very simple (there is a picture of the pipe run on my archive) and the car will run at the correct temp which is very important. See if you can hear the engine running before you buy which should be poss if coming from a breakers, cost should be £350-£400 ish, dont worry about the miles too much if you can hear it running. Grab the standard alternator as if can be used, the coil pack and loom connector and any odd pipes that may come in useful.
[Edited on 28/11/03 by zetec]
As a guide my 94-95 2.0ltr zetec with 95K miles cost £100 inc all its bits. I saw it running before buying and picked it up a couple of days later
once the garage removed it for me.
Just noticed how old the original thread was! where did that come from.
[Edited on 2/3/05 by Steve&Steve]