I have noticed that most builders use straps for securing their fuel tanks. I want to bolt mine to the chassis using 1" angle welded to the botton of the tank instead. Is there any reason why I should not do this. My tank will be a little wider and taller than most because my rollbar supports will be in the way.

It will be only 600mm long, but will have a capacity of 5.7 gallons - which will be enough for me.
Rescued attachment Tank.JPG

a tank full of squirt is quite heavy and there will be some strain on brackets,straps spread the load(my opinion only)

Mark,
i have used 3mm flat bar welded to the bottom of the tank to bolt to the chassis rails (think you can see in the pics) my pennys worth about fuel tanks is can you get it out after the bodywork is fitted? i have fitted mine from underneath so if anything should happen i can get it out without upsetting the bodywork...

Mark,

I agree with Conrodkid. Due to the engines being on stiffer mounts, to reduce engine movement, the whole car tends to vibrate more than standard . To make matters worse we remove the propshaft torsional damper and mount the diff directly to the chassis. This all adds up to more vibration which can lead to cracks in fuel tanks if the mounting is too stiff. I remember welding cracked petrol tanks on Triumph Daytona's and Bonnevilles in the past

IMHO a resilient mount, e.g. metalastic type bush would be better than bolting your 1" angle directly.

Cheers,

Colin

I intend to use 1" angle over the full length of the fuel tank so I dont think load spreading will be a problem. I didn't know if there was an electrical reason for using straps - although I cannot see why.

As my tank will only be 24" wide, I think it should be a cinch to get out after the bodywork is fitted

In the racing car is born prog on discovery h&l the westfield uses some kind of stick-on foam tape between the tank and the chassis mounting straps.

just a thought.

Mines solid mouted as it is in the donor - Vauxhall Chevette.

to be honest I think either will work but straps are usually easier as you don't need any lugs actually on the tank and straps are easy to bend. The rubbers tops the straps "rubbing"the tank.

Cheers

Chris

I won't have enough room between the tank and the rear panel to allow the straps to be bolted down, so the angle iron alternative is what I have come up with. I like CairB's insulation idea and will have another little think!

i was originally gonna bolt mine down - even put the tabs on for that.

Then I thought it wasnt a great idea in a crash - the tabs could be to rigid a mount, or tear the tank and make it leak.

So, I used two angle iron runners - front and back along the long edge of the tank. The tank kinda drops snug into the gap. I then made up two, one inch strip U brackets with foam strip, and used them to clamp the tank down to the bottom runners.

Possibly over complicated, but worked for me!

atb

steve