Engine is still overheating so going back to basics. Here is a diagram of the various bits and bobs. Could someone give me a definitive guide to what connects where.

I have looked at the options via search but all the other diagrams have extra pipes, tubes and heaters etc.

Cheers

Gary
Rescued attachment Pinto plumbing.JPG

wouldn't I have been simpler to take a picture?

I'm assuming that E1 & C are connected? as that use to go through the heater matrix.

[Edited on 27/11/07 by Mr Whippy]

Gary, I'm doing mine

A1 - D and Top rad breather using a tee piece.
A2 - E1 Water pump top
E2 Water pump bottom - Radiator bottom
Radiator top - Thermostat housing

Inlet manifold blocked

Seems ok but not road tested as not sva'd yet

Re Reading above seems a little confusing so here goes:

Expansion tank smaller top hose goes to the top of the thermostat and also to the top of the radiator for the breather using a tee piece imbetween so in effect it's self bleeding as the radiator is the highest point of the system.

The bottom larger hose from the expansion tank goes to the water pump top.

The large bore pipe from the water pump goes to the bottom of the radiator.

The top large bore radiator hose goes back to the thermostat housing.

Everything else is blocked!



[Edited on 27/11/07 by RichardK]

here's my Falcon's engine, you can see that even if you didn't have a heater you would still have to connect the pipes since the flow from the head is meant to heat the manifold and stop the carb freezing. Also I doubt the engine was ever designed with that flow stopped, hence your overheating...hope this helps?

[Edited on 27/11/07 by Mr Whippy]
Rescued attachment falcon.JPG

If you still want an expansion tank connect it to the heater pipe using a T-piece so the water still flows. This is handy since the heater pipe does not require the thermostat to open first.

i've done it as richard K says.

compared to the water flow through the water jacket and the head to the thermostat housing, the flow through the heater will be miniscule.

i've blocked it off and not had any over heating problems, as have many with much higher tuned engines than mine. it also means your header tank can feed straight into the suction side of the waterpump.

i'd wager it was more a convenient take off for the heater rather than a designed in thermodynamic requirement.

hth
tom

quote:

---

Originally posted by Mr Whippy
If you still want an expansion tank connect it to the heater pipe using a T-piece so the water still flows. This is handy since the heater pipe does not require the thermostat to open first.

---

D to Fi
E2 to F2 with A2 teed into this hose
C to E1
A1 to the little stub on the thermostat housing

Have you got the thermostat in the right way round. ie bellows/springs/wax cartridge sticking into the cylinder head.

How is air meant to bleed from the rad. All you have at the top is water in from the head.

When the engine is running there is no flow (or very little) through the inlet manifold pipe - should there be? If I suck (!) I can draw coolant through here but it takes a fair effort.

Does this suggest an airlock somewhere or something bunged up?

There is an overflow at the top of the rad - when it is connected up with the engine running it just purs out water so it has been blocked off.

There is a thermostatic cap on top of the expansion tank with an overflow

The rad is brand new from Lolocost so I assume is ok

G

[Edited on 28/11/07 by Shamrock GS]

Ive not used heater matrix or header tank with mine and it cools great. Mk1 Micra rad. Ive aded some bonnet vents but i dont think they make that much difference (vents above exhaust plus matching on other side of bonnet bulge, also some holes in nosecone underneath number plate).

I did have a slight issue early on with firt engine, i think a previous owner must have ran the car without antifreeze (or just poor maintenance) and the block was sludged up. It tended to run on the hot side and blew water out of rad cap. I fitted a small bottle to rad cap outlet which controlled any loss. I had to remove water jacket plug and flush it through with hose pipe - the sludge was past the plug so it did take some time with screwdrivers and wire etc to poke through and get it to flush. Afterwards circulation was far better and i was able to remove air locks.

Gary,

You may know this but it sounds like you think the pump pushes the water out. Actually, it sucks in and pushes it out into the engine.


This is how I did mine... I think it's the same as Bob's.

A2 to E1.
A1 to C (via choke)
D to F1
E2 to F2

Thermostat housing 'nipple' is blocked off. As is rad 'nipple'.


Hope that helps.
James

Some pics of my old pinto set up are in the archive, air locks were a pain when i 1st had the engine running but eventually all was well.

Remember the thermostat being shut until the engine reaches 88 or 92 degs (cant remember) will be the reason why there is lack of flow to the rad, it has been advised before to drill a small hole in the thermostat allowing water to circulate.

It took me a while to get my head around the flow of water water pump pulls the water in from bottom hose, this is a point where some people put a T piece in to accept a return from the header tank.

I've done a search on here for a very good diagram but alas i cant find it, i'm sure someone will know which one and hopefully post it up.

[Edited on 28/11/07 by bob]

I think I have a slightly incorrect plumbing setup. I have the outlet from the manifold going to the top of the expansion bottle. Will change this to a T piece from the top hose and see what happens.

Thanks

Gary

Hi my pinto is like this
out inlet manifold to exp tank top --out exp tank bottom to water pump 5/8 bore
water pump to rad bottom
rad top to thermostat
the water tank top lets air in and out [ ford sierra tank yellow top ]
It's been like this for 3.5 years
Jacko

How much are you overheating by?

Is it in standing traffic?

Pat...

Goes up to 100 + although that takes 10 or 15 miles. The fan (blowing the right way - have checked) cuts in at 80ish but doesn;t make a lot of difference.

G

Have you got any pics of engine bay ?

Need to see height of rad or header againdy height of cylinder head and pipework, could be a simple change or a massive airlock.

Once my airlock was sorted plus the timing checked on my old pinto set up it was fine, did hit the 100+ in traffic but the fan pulled it down without any probs.

Is the thermostat opening / working ok ?
Jacko