Can anyone see any problems with using this K&N filter on my injection system, also how do you clean the filter?
Rescued attachment AirFilter.jpg

appart from looking a bit crap.... should be ok.... not sure why you'd bother with a sandwich filter.... just fit a cone (or panel filter if you still got the airbox on)

you got another filter... would they fit my twin 45's

if you dont want them

I have a sandwich filter, I havent got a cone.....Locost!!

i thought that filter looked quite good. need summut like that myself i i want to avoid remaking the standard airbox to take a cone.

It's not fixed on yet, I have to check that there is enough room. I may make an adaptor in the shape of a funnel to smooth the air flow - would this make any difference?

Still don't know how to clean the damn thing, suppose you just wash in petrol and re oil with 3 in 1 oil

not sure if i would use petrol to clean it some hot soapy water normaly gets them clean once dry spray it with the proper k+n filter spray ,will look good as new then m8

Thanks, I will have to get some!

I know it sounds expensive but in my experience these manufacturers design their filters to be used with their own cleaning and re oiling products otherwise they may not work properly. You may be able to find other cheaper products but at what cost ?

details on this site

http://www.bobsmuffler.com/knclean.htm

just my 10p's worth

ps - don't use compressed air to dry it either, it blows holes in the fabric !!!

Just what I needed Thanks
Mark

Just had a thought.... how well does that filter guard against water ???

Airbox's and cones are usually good at stopping water... but is that sandwich filter ???

Just a thought if you fit a puddel and thats somewhere near "airy" it'll such a load of water up..... ???

The air filter will be over the bellhousing, (I have lowered and reversed by plenum chamber so it should not be an issue unless I really go swimming)
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gonna have bonnet vent/louvres ???

Might get a bit hot down there ????

Why would a sandwich filter be any worse than a cone filter for stopping water ingress into the engine???

Or are you assuming that the cone filter is fitted into the standard airbox?

No, but just wondered if it was the same or might be worse ??!?!?!

I know that i got water down a carb before that had one of them sandwich plates on.... so was just making sure

At work we get pug 306 diesels in regular as clockwork with waterlogged engines, the air filter is behind the bumper on the N/S and the intake is low down to take advantage of the cool air. Problem is that if you go through a ford, shallow flood, have a drive around the harbour at low tide (holiday maker favorite), the engine sucks up gallons of water, then tries to compress it, bends a conrod or two and is consequently scrap. Sometuimes you can get away with it if the revs were slow and noone has tried to restart, by removing the gloplugs and turning it over by hand to expell the water. Put your hope in the great mechanic in the sky and fire it up. Either its starts OK and ejects loads of steam from the exhaust, or it rattles and jumps about in the engine bay, or there is a loud bang.

I have only got 3 back on the road out of abot 20 (without replacing the engine, because the owner usually tries to crank it over after the stall)


Back to the thread, I will get it on the road and then see if I have a problem with hot air!

lol nice story mate.

Yeah, all you can do is try it i guess

Mark,

I like your version of the EFIlump reduction. I have the inlet towards the rear. I used the standard air filter box with the bottom cut out mounted with clearance on the plate over the passenger footwell. The lack of cool air in this location doesn't seem to be a complete no-no for getting your car on the road, though directing cooler air may help in the umph stakes later.

There is one thing in your photo that you should watch out for, that is the increased vibration of the fuel regulator due to its reduced mounting stiffness. I had problems with the pipe cracking where it came out of the fuel rail until I remotely mounted the regulator and fitted a flexible between the outlet pipe on the fuel rail and the regulator.

Getting close now?

Cheers,

Colin

Thanks for the tip about the reg, it is not in its final position because it fouls the nose cone! I will bear in mind about vibration - what sort of pipe did you use?

Steel braided petrol pipe suitable for injection from local factors, it came with suitable clips.

WIsh my local factors did steel braided petrol pipe

Ben,

If you lived near me they would

I got mine from http://www.automechsport.com

Cant seem to find any on there ?!?!?

Try giving them a ring - the web site does look a bit sparse.