Hi gents,

Just trying to figure out the best design for the engine to chassis mounting brackets - ie the 'post' welded to the chassis rails that the engine mounting rubbers below would bolt to.

Has anybody got any photo's or diagrams of how these engine mounting rubbers (the circled bit at the bottom) were attached to the chassis in the SD1?


V8 engine mounts

Thanks in advance,

Martin.

belive the did TVR did the same

regards

Agriv8

I'm using modified SD1 mounts. What I ended up doing - after some head scratching - was to make mounting plates with the two bolt holes for the mount and a lip of 5mm plate. The lip takes the weight of the engine without the bolts in place, as I thought using only the bolts (in shear) would be a bad idea.

You may find the SD1 mounts too wide though. I'm building a +4 and had to cut a good inch out of each one.

That's all about as clear as mud so I'll post some pics when I get home.

Thanks for the responses guys.

AdamR, if I understand you correctly I'm thinking of doing similar to what you've done. ie. having the weight of the engine taken on the rubbers sitting in cradles, and just using the bolts to locate the rubbers and prevent them from dislodging.

That's why I wondered how they did it in the SD1 (or TVR?) - I'm assuming they did something similar.

Look forward to the pics later

Cheers,

Martin.

I have used the Luego RV8 engine mounts with landrover engine mount rubbers.


[Edited on 18/7/07 by Paul (Notts)]
Rescued attachment sep06 030.jpg

If you're struggling to fit in the SD1 metal mounting brackets, use some from the Rover 3500 P6. These will allow you to move the SD1 rubber mounts much tighter to the block. You will need to drill holes in the P6 metal bracket as the original rubber mount was single bolt fixing. The only possible downside to using P6 brackets is they only use 2 bolts to attach to the engine block?

Range Rover mounts are much easier, just a lump of rubber with threads either end although better off with diesel SIII landrover rubbers as much harder.

Regards Mark

Thanks Gents,

Big help.

Martin.

modified mine as in pic, pulled the mountings in tight to fit between my ladder chassis. The rubber mounts are nice and solid to.

http://s72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/uphill-racer/?action=view&current=NGEngineMounts.JPG3crop.jpg

[Edited on 19/7/07 by Uphill Racer]

[Edited on 19/7/07 by Uphill Racer]

Pics of my solution as promised:

First I chopped the SD1 mounts to bring the rubber closer in to the block. My exhaust manifold is going to go out through the bonnet so no issues with clearence there.


engine mounts 1

Then I cut some 5mm plate, drilled it, and welded on some nice solid edges for the mount to sit on.


engine mounts 3

The mounting plates are welded on to diagonal tubes running betwen the top rail and the engine bay tubes. You can just about see here that the result nicely enables me to have a straight steering link, which was by design of course and not lucky coincedence at all (cough cough).


engine mounts 4

Hope that helps.

[Edited on 19/7/07 by AdamR]

Yep, same as I did mine, glad to see another KISS engineer (self praise) lol. The origional rubber mounts really work dont they, no need for a head steady

Yes very helpful thanks guys. Will be making a start on mine over the next couple of days.

Thanx again.

Martin.

Take a look around some of the Ginetta G33 sites...sure you'll find some good pics on there....