I have a 2.0 pinto with a weber carb. The engine i have did not come with any ecu, but on the weber carb there are all sorts of sensors and electrical
connections, one of them is a mutipin socket on the left of the carb!
Is it normal to remove all these bits and have manual choke etc and what ecu do i need to obtain to make it all run properly?
Has anyone got an ignition setup diagram for a 2.0 pinto with a weber carb.
Any help would be appreciated - thanks..
Check Ballast Resistor under electrics. Peteff posted the wirng for the Ignition module that i used . similar setup to what you have.
Steve
[Edited on 27/8/03 by SteveO]
I have a spare ecu off a pinto engine that ran a downdraught weber if you want it?
Ned.
Ned,
Sent U2U, which hopefully you received
Simon..
u2u replied to.
Ned.
Sorry thouhgt you had twin side webers and ignition unit.
sounds like your carb has the stepper motor on it,time to look for a new carb me thinks
stepper motor conrod?
1.)what is it/does it do
2.)is that good/bad/ugly?
Ned
I took the stepper motor and the auto-choke off the carb and junked the big ally ignition control box in favour of the smaller, simpler set up from
the earlier engine. I also turned the carb round and mounted the linkage on the other side so I wouldn't need as big a hole in the bonnet.
There's a threaded hole in just the right place to mount a tickover screw so it looks like they made it for the job. There's just one hole
that you blank off with a self tapper or it runs weak. The stepper motor controls the tickover at different engine temperatures and is controlled by
the ignition box.
yours, Pete.
[Edited on 27/8/03 by Peteff]
Peteff,
If i do away with the stepper motor and the choke bits off the carb, presumably i will have to fit a manual choke.
I do have a simple engine management unit from a 1600 pinto but this has 2 wires only which should go to the distributor. My 2.0 distributor should
have three wires going to it. Can i replace the distributor with the 1600 one, will anything be affected?
The 1600 distributor i have does have vacuum advance whereas the 2.0 does not - not sure what is best to do....
I don't have a choke any more, the manual replacement was £35 and I'm too mean to pay it. Actually if you pump it 3 or 4 times before
starting and then let it tick over to warm up you will not need a choke. The 1.6 dizzy will have a different advance curve but I would be tempted to
try it if I had it. The vacuum advance is handled by the control box on your original system.
yours, Pete.
peteff,
Thanks for the info, You say that you junked the ally ECU in favour af a simpler one. Which one did you use?
I did try the 1600 dizzy with the 1600 small ECU unit but connecting the vacuum pipe from the manifold to the distributor, i was getting far too much
advance.
Do you know where/how the vacuum pipe from the 1600 dizzy would attach to the 2.0 manifiold, bearing in mind that the standard 2.0 setup advances the
ignition through the ECU?
Hope that makes sense, thanks for all your all your help..
Simon...
I think the proper name for it is the inductive discharge system fitted to 2.0ltr carb models up to 1985. I'll have a look at the carb and see if
I can put you a picture on tomorrow with a bit of detail if it helps.
yours, Pete.
i appreciate that, thanks for all your help Pete.
Simon
This is the carb turned round with the linkage swapped to the other side and the stepper and choke removed. I had to put a slight dent in the rocker
for the vacuum pump to clear but it doesn't interfere with anything inside. If you have the advance too far down the manifold it will give a
massive advance as you found.
I used one of the auto choke screws as a tickover screw 'cos it was the right thread.
yours, Pete.
[Edited on 29/8/03 by Peteff]
Rescued attachment carb.jpg