Do you ever get that feeling that you have just made a problem far worse?????

As previous post i tried JB weld to secure and seal my pinto dipstick tube and it didnt work. I then thought - get the magic bond and seal out and job will be a good 'un. Bugger - it didnt work. Somehow it still leaks

So - i now have a tube held in place with polyurethane that i just know will be a bugger to clean off. Can i safely assume polyurethane adhesive isnt mineral oil resistant??

How can i seal it and fix it in place now? I feel it is too loose to loctite in place (with bearing retainer as has been suggested to me).

Im narked as it should in theary be an easy fix but proving to be troublesome in practice.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

let me see if I understand your problem.

your dispstick tube fits into a hole and the hole is larger then the tube?

if it is a metal tube, if it were me, I'd clean it, heat it up and and apply solder, plumbers and dress it to shape. Hopefully the pushing part will deform the solder so it is a snug fit. maybe warming up the hole a bit will persuade the tube to go in easier - not enough so it would melt.

Is there anything else that is holding the tube in like a clamp plate?

Tube is push fit in the hole (or supposed to be a push fit!). No clamp plate or anything else.

Taking your idea on a bit - i could swage the end out a touch so it is a slide fit and then retry the JB weld or loctite.

It may be that the tube has shrunk with it being slack for a while. Its probs the excess movement that resulted in the JB weld idea failing (maybe i didnt let it fully cure for long enough and it moved when driving???) I have also noticed there isnt a securing bracket at the top end o fthe tube - may need to get this sorted as well to stop the movement in use, this si probs why it failed in the first place (would have happened before i got the engine, ive only done 150 miles or so with it).


I need to find where i hid the acetone now for removing the old bond and seal - messy yucky job.


Can anyone confirm a good sealing compound that is oil resistant when fully cured.

Hi Drarren, I had the same problem - I used that epoxy leak fix stuff which can be used for repairing petrol tanks - goes off quickly and is quite hard. I ve had no problems since using this stuff.

Cheers

Mark

quote:

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Originally posted by DarrenW
Tube is push fit in the hole (or supposed to be a push fit!). No clamp plate or anything else.

Taking your idea on a bit - i could swage the end out a touch so it is a slide fit and then retry the JB weld or loctite.

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Thanks Mark - i have some of that 2 part leak fix stuff, will give it a try. Must remember to leave it longer this time to go off fully. Ill also try some gentle heat from fan heater to help it along on cold nights in the garage.

02GF74
Yes - i have seen a similar p-clip type top bracket on some Pintos as well. Missing from both engines i have had but both were injection lumps obtained without the injection gear, im buessing the bracket was fastened to the plenum so explains why it is missing. Its dead easy to fix on a new plate to throttle bracket and secure the top end of the tube (even a cable tie would do the job).

PTFE tape?

It worked for me on my race crossflow for a season.

[Edited on 13/3/07 by lsdweb]

we brazed a small tag and used a silicon once the tube was roughened with wet n dry..
Rescued attachment P3130002altered.JPG

I just used locktite - its what its made for