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X Flow help
donut - 7/3/07 at 09:19 AM

I have a X flow and it was mated to an auto box. I am converting it to manual but need to know what i need to take off in order to get the std flywheel to work.

What do i need to take off from this photo?

[img][/img]


graememk - 7/3/07 at 09:22 AM

have thought about a bike engine ?


donut - 7/3/07 at 09:27 AM

Not for the 100e no!


mookaloid - 7/3/07 at 09:37 AM

Does the flywheel not bolt straight on?

Also I would replace that core plug before fitting anything

Cheers

Mark


David Jenkins - 7/3/07 at 09:41 AM

It's hard to see from your photo, but I think you've still got the adaptor on the end of the crankshaft - that'll need to come off. It took some 'persuasion', but it's only a tight fit - no fasteners, glue, or whatever.

And don't forget a new bearing in the 'ole!

[Edited on 7/3/07 by David Jenkins] Rescued attachment xflow.jpg
Rescued attachment xflow.jpg


jollygreengiant - 7/3/07 at 10:50 AM

Yep second the replace core plug.

Replace/Fit new spigot bearing, I presume that its being mated to a type nine as opposed to an early three rail. The early three rail gearboxes had a slightly thicker nose on the input shaft. So if that is the case then you would need a specially made spigot bearing. (I found this out years ago fitting a Xflow onto a 3 railbox in a Mk1 cortina, had to use the mk2 cortina 3 rail gearbox.)

Fit flywheel & clutch.

Fit engine in car.



Enjoy.


donut - 7/3/07 at 03:42 PM

Below is another pic of that part of the engine.

quote:

I think you've still got the adaptor on the end of the crankshaft

Which bit is that? The bronze coloured bit is what the old flywheel bolted onto. Don't i just bolt the new std flywheel to that and insert a new spigot bearing?

Thanks for the help so far!!


[img][/img]


donut - 7/3/07 at 03:45 PM

jollygreengiant:

The engine is a GT spec jobby from a Mk2 escort Auto (used GT engines apparently!) and the g/box is from a Mk1 1600GT so the spigot bearing 'should' be easily available. I'll give Bertons a ring in the morning for a new one...and core plug!!

[Edited on 7/3/07 by donut]


David Jenkins - 7/3/07 at 03:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by donut
Below is another pic of that part of the engine.

Which bit is that? The bronze coloured bit is what the old flywheel bolted onto. Don't i just bolt the new std flywheel to that and insert a new spigot bearing?




This picture shows what I think is the end of your crankshaft. Best move is to offer up your manual-type flywheel to the end of the crank - if the end is about 1/2" too wide for the flywheel recess - you've got an adaptor to remove - the bronze-coloured bit.

[Edited on 7/3/07 by David Jenkins] Rescued attachment xflow2.jpg
Rescued attachment xflow2.jpg


donut - 7/3/07 at 03:54 PM

Cheers fella, I'll give it a go!


David Jenkins - 7/3/07 at 04:01 PM

This may help - a photo of the end of a spare crankshaft. so you know what you're looking for...

The crankcase seal rides on the round bit at the end.



[Edited on 7/3/07 by David Jenkins] Rescued attachment DSCF0054.JPG
Rescued attachment DSCF0054.JPG


donut - 7/3/07 at 04:16 PM

Ok i thought i would have a fiddle with the brass thingy and it almost (with a little help with a screw driver) came off in my hands. The flywheel fits a treat and all i need is thespigot bearing. Wahoo!


[Edited on 7/3/07 by donut]


rusty nuts - 7/3/07 at 05:58 PM

Probably need flywheel bolts as well . Likely to be longer for flywheel than torque convertor


David Jenkins - 7/3/07 at 06:15 PM

I believe that new flywheel bolts are recommended anyway...


donut - 7/3/07 at 07:30 PM

Good Point!!!!


MikeRJ - 7/3/07 at 11:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I believe that new flywheel bolts are recommended anyway...


I thought about the thin alloy bellhousing and flimsy bit of alloy panel that separated my legs from the flywheel which is literaly a few inches away and spent the extra on ARP ones!


donut - 8/3/07 at 07:35 AM

Another good point!!