has anyone mounted there's solid..


or is it a really stupid idea....

lsdweb mounted his zetec solid in his seven, no major problems as i recall, it was a while back though

Hi there

I worked on a friends westfield he used to race. It had a 16v Vauxhall XE unit solid mounted with no issues.

Cheers

Ian

Mines solid ( and its a wobly V8 ) Wobles when sat still a bit but no problems on the move

Regards

Agriv8

I'd mount it in solid every time. Always done it this way with my racecars over the years and it has never been an issue. It's not like you are looking for a 'Rolls Royce' ride from your seven is it?
ATB
Phil

My bike engine is mounted solid. It seems just fine to me.

thats what I wanted to do but someone said it was a bad idea on a road car, even though the v6 is very smooth.

I want to feel the car!!

You can't argue with success, but I would have thought there would be two problems, welds cracking due to stress and bolts (and fillings) falling off due to vibration.

it should be kinder to you exhaust system and anything else that is connected to both the engine and the chassis (such as the loom and water pipes) due to less movement between the two.

The only downside I can think of is an increase in vibration leading to more fastener failures. However if all fasteners are installed correctly, with decent locking methods, that can be negated.

as for the welds its a good point but I was hoping that the engine itself would increase the rigidity of the car being bolted to it. Though the chassis is lighter than the engine, well mine is, so I don't know it that would be an issue

as I mentioned previously my buggys engine is solid mounted and you really have no idea that it is, super smooth.

Where's the best place to get solid mtgs made then?

Regards

Gary

My class 9 grasser ran solid mounted engine (the one in my avatar) and the vibration at certain revs is incredible, despite it being pronounced "extremely smooth" on the rollers when previously flexibly mounted.

I mean vibrating enough to shear pop rivet heads off in some places every race, and crack the welds holding the screen mesh in place several times a season.

I think it is all to do with resonance, and it depends on all sorts of dimensions, but to give some idea, my screen mesh (1" x 1" 12 sgw weldmesh) which was secure enough that pulling and pushing the middle of it as hard as possible by hand yielded no more than 1mm movement, when at 6000 revs vibrated in and out by 25mm or so

It makes your eyes itch too!

quote:

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Originally posted by NS Dev
My class 9 grasser ran solid mounted engine (the one in my avatar) and the vibration at certain revs is incredible, despite it being pronounced "extremely smooth" on the rollers when previously flexibly mounted.

I mean vibrating enough to shear pop rivet heads off in some places every race, and crack the welds holding the screen mesh in place several times a season.

I think it is all to do with resonance, and it depends on all sorts of dimensions, but to give some idea, my screen mesh (1" x 1" 12 sgw weldmesh) which was secure enough that pulling and pushing the middle of it as hard as possible by hand yielded no more than 1mm movement, when at 6000 revs vibrated in and out by 25mm or so

It makes your eyes itch too!

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Thanks for the comments guys. I was gettin worried after a friend (who worked for Caterham) said it would crack the welds in no time)

not that it really matters... you can just weld them up and add more gussets

Maybe use a stiffer non-rubber mounting material so there is at least some de-coupling of the engine vibrations from the chassis. May cut down on the worst resonances.

The question I would have to ask is why would you want to solid mount the enigne in a road car? Is it because you engine moves too much on the existsing mounts, or because of some idea that it would stiffen the chasis by doing so?

On my grasser I did it because space was so tight that there was no room for any engine movement in any direction.

Certainly wasn't done for performance reasons.

Also not when I say solid mounted, I mean as in bolted in directly metal to metal direct to the engine block and gearbox, no spacers plastic or otherwise!

It also meant I could make the rear chassis section lighter as the engine was semi-stressed.

interesting thread,

I was looking at this as I have very little clearence, and wanted the ebgine as solid as possible-
its a bit wobbly on the rubber mounts!

any sva issues?

Like above i have had several engines solid mounted in grass track chassis,

Pinto, BMC, RV8, Cosworth all cracked welds, when you put your foot down the engine tries its best too twist itself out of the chassis as well as turn the rear wheels.

Currently got the engine in the 7 on metalastic suspension bush's with no cracked mounts.

What are metalastic suspension bush's

i take it the grass track car's get stick on the mounts from the engine "and" also from the jumps and bumps. ie up and down.

My engine's mounted on peugeot suspension bushes. Doesn't move but wont shake the chassis to bits. Cant see the point in totally solid mounting, you can stop it moving and still have vibration isolation. A small capacity beautifully engineered bike engine may be OK solid mounted, but with a 300bhp (??) turboed car engine you might get the kind of issues NSdev is describing.

Liam

i think its the latency issue wich have the heavy flywheels...

imagine you give full throttle in 2nd
then loses the throttle and pushes clutch..

when idle is reached you release the clutch...
becaus of the fact your flywheel hasnīt energy in it it takes time (and allot of force) to spin it all up to road speed..

its here where you try to spin the engine instead of the crank...

thats the case where the rubber mounts move the engine taking away time/energy

to spin it up...

i never would mount something wich suchs a heavy driveline solid...
also there are no TRT tubes etc and in a bec there are..
(in fact the original bike has crush blocks in the rear sprocket assembly)

Tks

When I was looking into engine mountings for my R V8, someone (I thought it was Rorty, but a quick look in his p/a makes me think it was someone else) posted pics using the sa,e bushes as for suspension. Very neat, very strong and would absorb certain frequencies, even damp vibration sufficiently.

ATB

Simon

landrover engine mounts are almost solid, but do soak up any harmonics, they are Ģ12 a pair and dead easy to fit, mine have done 2 years of use and are as good as when they were new
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