I've decided that it is too difficult to fill up my coolant system to the desired level (ford x-flow with radiator lower than engine) so I have got a fiesta coolant expansion tank.

My problem is finding a way of tapping it into the hoses. Can't find anyone who sells coolant 'T' joiners.

However, I have found some old copper pipe and solder ring connectors which are a perfect size and with the solder ring you even have a lip on the pipe to stop the hose from slipping off. Perfect and so easy to make!

Is copper okay to use as part of my coolant pipes? I think it should hold up to the pressure and stand up to the heat.

Is this a good idea or just silly?

i cant see any reason why not. It works in domestic heating systems........unless there is summat freaky with anti freeze.....


atb

steve

You can get an electrolitic reaction between the different metals, but it should not cause any major problems as long as you use a good antifreeze and change it frequently.

Terry

Had a MkIV spitfire once.

That had a metal pipe down the side of the block think it went to the heater.
Rusted through one night (11:30, an hour from anywhere, as luck would have it - they are NOT comfortable to sleep in).
Replaced that with a copper one.
Lasted at least two years before I flicked it off.

-Greg H

Coolant t pieces are available from motor factors.. I know unipart/partco do them...

Why not use plastic pipe??

doesn't copper expand to its original shape (like as in copper plug washers) when put in boiling water?

your cooling system shouldn't boil (we hope ) so should be oki guess.

anyone to correct me?

Ned.

I've used copper pipes and joints to navigate around my steering box on the bottom outlet from the radiator. we use copper pipes on all of out rigs at an engine test and development centre with no problems in years, good enough for them, good enough for me. sheepy

I've been using copper pipe on my car for the last 6 years and have had no problems.
Barry.

coolant can run up to or over 100 degrees C, as I understand it, so if copper does something odd at that temperature it might be a problem.

can't say I've ever heard of that problem with copper, though.

My Escort radiator is made of copper and my Nissan van radiator is made of copper and my Clio diesel radiator was made of copper and my old Mini had a copper radiator. I have repaired several when stones or similar have damaged them by soldering them and have never had the same part fail again. I think you are on safe ground.

yours, Pete.

I work in the plumbing / heating industry and we use copper pipe to test our plastic pipe. The tests run for 6 months each and temperatures of 120c are commonplace, with pressures at 6 - 7 bar (80 - 100 psi) with no problems whatsoever - hell our plastic pipe will stand that!!

Don't worry about it.

Marcus

copper pipe &/or fittings will do you just fine, if used with an anti-freeze you should find no corrosion problems with cast-iron,steel or Aluminum even after years of abuse. Like all good petrol heads keep your Anti-Freeze levels up!!!!

Copper pipe is fine, just make sure you wash off any flux residue after soldering on any fittings. Some fluxes contain acids which can eat away at your aluminium bits.
There's nothing like a partially disolved water pump to cause the car to overheat!

Sorry to drag up an old post, but....

Anyone know if you can get copper fittings ~40mm in diameter?

I'm after:

1. A "T" piece with main part ~40mm diameter, and the "T" bit ~20mm diameter.

2. An ~40mm diameter "U" bend.

Any plumbers out there know if they exist?

Cheers

I know you can get 35mm copper pipe, and I think I managed to get some a little bigger from a refrigeration engineer (38mm especially made for the type of appliance.) but I don't think it's something you can buy from your local plumb center.

And if you can it would cost a fair bit.

Cheers
Mark

if you can get bigger sized copper pipe, it could be quite usefull for making custom fit coolant pipes that go exactly where you want them.

As for the heat issue, i know its been answered, but to put it into perspective, some of you may be old enough to remember a time before petrol engines, when trains ran on steam, most of the pipework was copper, reason being it was the simplest metal to work, that would stand up to such a range of temperatures...

If you are looking for stocks of larger diameter copper pipe, the model engineer guys use loads of weird and wonderful materials,as well as less exotic materials such as copper pipe. see if google will turn up any websites or forums for further help....

[Edited on 26/8/03 by eddie]

i hate to burst a huge bubble here , and im probably wrong, but- how does standard copper pipe stand up to the vibrations in a car? i thought the reason it wasnt used in brake systems was because it cracked under these conditions, hence 'soft' copper is used with nickel or something or other else mixed in? it would make it a lot simpler for to use copper pipe too so i hope im wrong!

Cheers,


Russ.



[Edited on 26/8/03 by suparuss]

I think you are refering to 'age hardening' here. In my opinion the diameters of tube and unsupported lengths being discussed here would not pose a problem. I imagine that they may also be isolated from vibration by the flexible pipework. I'm seriously considering copper (when I get that far).

Mick

T-pieces like this one are available from Samco - the turbo nutter brigade use them to connect devices called "dump valves", whatever they may be. As it happens I couldn't find one as small as I required (32mm) so I made this one. I believe that 40mm are available, though If you get stuck, let me know.

Cheers,

Eddy

Life is easy using copper. I needed to make up a couple of pipes which had several connections. A quick trip to the plumbers merchants, tell them what you need to join and 90% of the time they have something, they even had sizes that I had never seen before. Even if the pipe does stress fracture (and I don't think it will) you will probably see a slight water leak long before it breaks. I would have spent 3 times the cost if I had not used copper. Also they can supply plated fittings and pipe which look very good and cost little extra.

been using copper since 2000 on my car, no problems. Even soldered in a small outlet at the highest point with a central hearing bleed screw in it to allow me to completely bleed the system. No vibration worries as it is all supported with ally brackets with a 3mm rubber lining. far better than hours of scouring the scrappy for the bends you will need, and 905 of the time are just not tight enough or just too long!

Cheers

and happy soldering
Colin

What size bore have you used?
And if it's not 15mm or 22mm, where did you get it from?

8mm,10mm, 35mm I'm sure there are others. Another way of going up a couple of mm is to solder a end feed fitting on and cut the end off, also stops coolant pipes blowing off.

28mm Yorkshire fittings are spot on for escort rad hose modifications. I got a 90 and a straight to make a new one when my convoluted caterpillar pipe cracked again.

yours, Pete.

35mm and got it from a plumbers next door to my work. i know it cost me a fair whack too.

A BTTT combined with 'does anyone know how much 3 meters of 35mm copper tube should cost roughly?' Dont want to get lashed on monday!

and what is a yorkshire fitting? 'scuse the ignorance...

couldnt tell you how much the pipe would cost but a yorkshire fitting is the one with a ring of solder inside just flux the pipe put on the fitting and heat up till the solder runs job done .

For all these copper plumbing bits try www.bes.ltd.uk. Most things in stock, next day delivery and carriage free over £40. £4-95 under £40. Used to be free on all orders, but got taken advantage of I suppose.

Just my input on this. I've used copper frequently over the years with no problem at all. 15mm & 22mm are standard sizes. Any larger and it gets very expensive. Vibration is not a problem with coolant pipes provided they are not mounted rigidly or stressed. Once you get above 22mm I've found aluminium very cost effective (about £14 for 15 feet) - I have the special flaring tool for 1.25" od tube if anyone needs any couplings making.
It's ideal for branches if you have access to TIG.
Another useful alternative is to use mild steel exhaust tubing and then buy smaller bore steel tubing for the branches (BQ stock this in 1m / 2m lengths). It's great for brazing and especially where you want to braze in stubs for temp. senders/switches etc. With all these I then thoroughly clean (blast clean is great) when complete and then either powder coat or prime with etch primer and the use plastikote metal paint (rated to 150c easily). Internal corrosion with any of these will be no problem as long as a good corrosion resistant anti-freeze or corrosion resisting "water wetter" is used. I have examples still in use in vehicles over 15 years of age.

[Edited on 23/2/04 by Terrapin_racing]
Rescued attachment front2.JPG

well, i got some 35mm copper tube today, £20 for 3 metres! bloody steep but it should work well.

does anyone know if i am best off soldering it or welding it to put a lip on it?

thanks!

best off squashing a lip into it, I think. I haven't tried solder but I expect it'd just run flat rather than make a nice ridge, and I'm not sure what you'd weld copper with. oxy?

If you anneal the ends (heat to bright red and then quench in water) you will be able to form a bead on the pipe using a simple former - you'll find the copper is extremely soft when annealed. Alternative would be to solder a compression ring in place - I hate to aske what 30mm cr's cost?

A vise-grips can easily be bodged into a bead former. You can see the tips I welded onto the end of the VG in the photo below. It does the trick. Annealing would have been a great idea. I just did it by brute force. Quite tiring after a few rounds.



[Edited on 2/23/04 by sgraber]

i had to modify my plans today, it was nearly impossible to get them on without a lip, god knows what i'd've done to get it over the lip as well! so i used a thin grinder blade to take a slit out of the pipe, jubilees to shrink it closed, a blob of weld on full wack to join it (seems to weld ok), lower power to cover the rest of the gap, plan to grind flat and solder over it tomorrow to fill the tiny holes left. then put a series of blobs of weld round the lip to help it grip, and clamp the jubilees on. the dude in the shop said they didnt have any 35mm olive thingies.

got loads left to play with anyway!

quote:

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Originally posted by Terrapin_racing
I hate to aske what 30mm cr's cost?

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