Okay.. Since i have been building my pride n joy ... a number of years now.. I have noticed more and more bike engined cars up and running..

So.. how long will a standard bike clutch last and is it easy to change?

cheers

most 'standard' bike clutches won't last too long but with uprated springs the gearbox seems to be the weaker link in the transmission.

Ned.

There's always the exception my yellow friend, In 6 years of running becs on the road I have gone thru 2 clutches and zero gearboxes.

Easy peasy job too change.

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Originally posted by johnemms
Okay.. Since i have been building my pride n joy ... a number of years now.. I have noticed more and more bike engined cars up and running..

So.. how long will a standard bike clutch last and is it easy to change?

cheers

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It all depend upon how you use the clutch. If you spend a lot of time in traffic riding the clutch, then not very long. If you only ever pull off quickly , and use the clutch as a switch then it'll probaby last longer.

I never ride the clutch and pop it into neutral as soon as I can when in traffic, and my R1 clutch of unknown age and conditon has done 4500 miles and has been fine! I will have a measure of the plates over winter to see what state they're in, that's unless it gives up before then!

As far as I'm aware, my clutch is absolutely stock, and as others have said they're a doddle to work on....

My clutch is 4000 miles old and is showing no signs of slippage. I don't do screaming starts that often, which is the biggest source of wear, and I'm smooth with the shifts so I expect it to last quite a bit longer.

Changing the clutch plates is easy. 10 bolts and the cover is removed, 6 more and the pressure plate is off. the clutch plates slide out, except the last one which is held in with a wire. Refitting is the reverse of assembly except that you have to align the clutch arm when you put the cover back on. Easier than a car clutch by 100 miles.

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Bike clutches are easy to change and can be done in less than one hour from start to finish.

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So which engine is the one that is easy to change and which one has to be lifted from the chassis?
Or is that down to the builder?

cheers by the way ...

I guess he cant get at the clutch cover without lifting the engine out, still an easy job.

The R1 engine has the clutch cover at the front of the engine in a car install. in my MNR chassis there is load of room in front of the engine to get your hands in to work on it. I guess that some cars have a very short engine bay or are mid engined.

Wheezy has a middy though, so his clutch cover is hidden in the engine bay against the panel work.
Most 7 type cars will have the clutch cover at the front and so should be easy to remove.

Description
There are a few disadvantages with a mid engine longditudinal instalation.


[Edited on 22/9/06 by wheezy]

And a bonus with the longitudinal installation is that you can change the clutch without losing any oil (if you lift the front up enough)

Wheezy, ISWYM about the clearance issues

Out of curiosity, does the oil need to be drained before attacking the clutch? I realize this may sound dumb, but...

--Thanks, Chris

On My R1, you don't have to drain the oil. The clutch sits above the sump.

Thanks! I should have asked if the 919 Blade needs a draining...

--Chris

Not sure, but you could always jack the front of the car up.....