£20 for the bearings
£30 for the steel
1 plastered conservatory for the machinist
around 12 kg and takes the most common size of lobro joint
approx 17" flange to flange

i call it a VERY limited slip diff
Rescued attachment chain drive 002.jpg

pic2
Rescued attachment chain drive 003.jpg

pic3
Rescued attachment chain drive 004.jpg

Hi,
Looks good.
Just wondering what diff is it based on, or is it locked?
Where did you get the LSD bit from?
Cheers
Ali

it looks like a motorbike wheel. so no differential.

Paul

i guess thats why its "VERY limited slip" ie no slip.

are the output flanges keyed on or splined on?

I am always worried with keyway failure on big torque setups???

(thinking ahead to my twin tl1000 setup on the new grasser)

6x6 key on a 2 degree taper and all spaced so it should pull up pretty tight. i wasnt going to lash out on a proper diff and at least i have kept the cush drive to help protect the gearbox which isnt the tl ,s strongest point. splines were an option but then i would need heat treatment etc and now im on course for building the whole car for under a grand il take the risk of it going tits up on me

quote:

---

Originally posted by MikeR
i guess thats why its "VERY limited slip" ie no slip.

---

It's not really a "diff" then is it ? . Will the cost run to a new sprocket, that one looks a bit pointy.

how VERY dare you!!! im going to run it with the old chain first to see if my sums are right, i think i will get 11mph per 1000rpm in top using the 10" wheels i have which is about the same as most prop driven bec,s but i can go down 4 on the rear if its too low . im sure it will try to push round bends but ive got coilovers and arb,s front and rear to mess with before spending on a proper diff

ive seen single seaters with a similar set up i think they are called jedi,s with 600cc bike engines in last time i was at curborough and they seemed to go well enough

[Edited on 4/8/06 by froggy]

I used to race a hotrod with locked diff and it was not nice at slow manouvring speeds.

It will drive OK at speed in the dry but will be interesting in the wet. You will need to steer with the throttle.

cant argue with that but i might be able to set the spring rate/ roll bars to soften it a little bit and with 70 series tyres it i can mess with the pressures too,at worst il have to stump up the brass for an mk or z-cars type jobbie but for a cheap toy i think i can live with a bit of tyre scrub

Hi Froggy!

Did wonder if they were on a taper as well. Certainly ought to be strong enough on 2 deg taper and keyway, think that's what I will go for initially and see if it shears it!!!

Remember there's a cheaper diy alternative to an off the shelf z cars diff, that's to get a s/h english lsd and weld caps over the 4 round holes in the casing then do what you have done with the bike wheel basically, except bolt the sprocket to the crownwheel mounting bolts. Just a thought, still gonna be £300 + but cheaper than off the shelf!

i was more concerned about keeping the cush drive than anything else ,if i have to use a diff i will look at incorporating the cush drive between the sprocket and crown wheel ,might be something for you to look at too ?