2L zetec to type 9, MNR pedals. There is a loud rattle from the release arm and bearing which goes completely on pressing the pedal. (opposite of bearing wear)
Am I right in thinking the sierra is designed to have the release bearing held firmly against the diaphragm springs by the pedal quadrant spring so the bearing is always spinning?
If so and I rig a spring to do this how do you avoid having the clutch takeup in the first half inch of pedal travel? I like it in the middle of pedal travel.

The release arm should be loose when theres no pressure on the pedal. How loose I dont know, but I am sure someone can give you some idea

I copied the Escort pedal layout, which has a strong spring to hold the pedal to the 'off' position. This tension on the cable holds the release arm firmly - so no rattles.

David

I'm confused here. The sierra seems to have tension on the cable from the pedal end and that can only pull the clutch arm forward onto the diaphragm. Is the escort spring on the release arm pulling back off the diaphragm?
I always assumed the bearing was held clear of the diaphragm when the pedal was not depressed but that doesn't seem to be the case in the sierra. Or am I missing something?

[Edited on 24/5/06 by Dusty]

Got me thinking now! I'll have to look tonight...
... I believe that it pulls in the 'off' direction, as if your foot was on the pedal very slightly (so I was probably wrong earlier!). You have to pull the pedal up to check that you have the right amount of travel.

But I will check...

David

I think it very unlikely clutch release bearing would be permanently in contact with the diaphragm. My Sierra manual says there is an automatic adjuster on the clutch cable at the pedal end. I think it pre-loads the clutch cable slightly so that the pedal is held 10 - 15 mm off the pedal stop.

There must be a simpler way, say with a clutch cable ending in threaded rod at release arm for adjustment.

With my setup, I do have a manual adjuster. I have used a clutch cable from a Cortina or Capri - at the pedal end it has a loop that fixes using a pin through the top of the pedal. At the gearbox end it has a threaded outer that goes through a hole in the bellhousing - this allows adjustment using a couple of nuts.

Pictures can be provided if necessary!

David

A few different systems used by Ford over the years --- in common with some other 70s cars some Escorts used manual adjustment with "rising pedal" this had no spring on the pedal, the clutch cable was simply adjusted to bring the clutch pedal (almost) level with brake pedal. No pedal stop was fitted to the pedal so as the clutch wore the clutch pedal would rise above the brake indicating it required adjustment. With this system you can put a light spring on the clutch arm to hold it in contact.

What I would realy like to ask of anyone who is using sierra pedals or still has the donor, 'Would you be kind enough to check in real life, Does the release arm press the bearing firmly up against the clutch at rest or not?'

It's pouring with rain, but I'll check tomorrow

quote:

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
With my setup, I do have a manual adjuster. I have used a clutch cable from a Cortina or Capri - at the pedal end it has a loop that fixes using a pin through the top of the pedal. At the gearbox end it has a threaded outer that goes through a hole in the bellhousing - this allows adjustment using a couple of nuts.

Pictures can be provided if necessary!

David

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I have the Escort cable, shortish, adjustable, eye one end and standard type 9 mushroom the other but that was not the question.
Rescued attachment DSCN0749.jpg

OK - my point was that the pedal's spring keeps the whole cable linkeage slightly in tension, so the lever arm doesn't rattle around. The adjustable end of the cable allows you to move the 'at rest' position to suit your needs.

David

[Edited on 25/5/06 by David Jenkins]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dusty
What I would realy like to ask of anyone who is using sierra pedals or still has the donor, 'Would you be kind enough to check in real life, Does the release arm press the bearing firmly up against the clutch at rest or not?'

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Thanks David and NS Dev. Thats what I thought should be happening. The problem now is with floor mounted pedals I have lost the spring. I can fit one easily enough but can't see how I can get the clutch actuation to happen mid pedal stroke (personal preference) rather than at the start of the stroke. How can I fit this compliance into the system?

Thinking about it, you have 2 adjustments available if you use a clutch cable like the one in the picture - the screw adjuster at the clutch end, and the position of the collar at the pedal end. In the original car the second one was set by the car's designer, but you can change things by adding spacers to move the cable outer in relation to the pedal.

Between the two you should be able to adjust both the pedal's position and where it actually operates the clutch.
Rescued attachment Image1.jpg

Adjusting the cable will only alter the resting position of the clutch pedal, to alter the point at which the clutch engages you would need to be able to adjust the throw of the cable, i.e. either the length of the clutch operating arm or the distance between the pivot and cable on the clutch pedal.

Thanks again Dave. Thinking about spacing at the cable to pedal mount end this is my adaptation uses a spring both as a spring and as a spacer.

Clutch pedal stop to adjust rest position.

Sliding sprung section carries pedal end clutch outer, maintains arm and bearing tension against clutch diaphragm and shortens on pedal actuation till the spring goes coilbound then actuates the clutch.

Adjuster or shims at bell housing set position of clutch arm actuation. Works. Wahey!

[Edited on 26/5/06 by Dusty]
Rescued attachment Clutch tensioner.JPG