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Modifying sumps
Cousin Cleotis - 12/4/06 at 06:31 PM

when i get a bit of "air" or brake very hard with the engine revving 5k+ the oil pressure warning light comes on for a fraction of a second.

how do i keep the oil in the sump? dry sumping is too expensinve for me.

whats best, mig, gas weld or brazing?

Thanks, Paul


mookaloid - 12/4/06 at 07:11 PM

What engine are you running?


mark chandler - 12/4/06 at 07:30 PM

Cut horizontal baffle with a folded edges that fit snugly inside the sump, poke a big hole through where the oil strainer and and a small one for the dipstick and tack weld inside... Mig or Tig is best as Gas tends to heat everything up.

If the sump is ali then TIG

If it ends up distorting the sump then use some proper sealing goo instead of a gasket, Wurth do an excellent one, do not use ordinary silicon

Regards Mark Rescued attachment sump4.jpg
Rescued attachment sump4.jpg


Cousin Cleotis - 12/4/06 at 08:06 PM

thankyou, its not my locost, thats just a collection of parts. the car is a lada 1200. i will try a horizontal baffle.

Thanks, Paul


02GF74 - 13/4/06 at 06:15 AM

Mark, what has happened to the frpotn of the sump - looks like someone has been re-shaped it with a hammer - why?

[img]http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=42749&pid=354815[/img]


bimbleuk - 13/4/06 at 08:53 AM

Similar to above except the 4AGE 20V sump already has the horizontal baffle plate I've just added the extra return lip around the edge of the hole. There is also a factory windage plate which sits between the sump and engine block.


[img][/img]