Board logo

Propshaft
caber - 17/1/06 at 10:31 PM

I have a two piece Capri propshaft and it looks like the back section is the right length however I can't figure how to dismantle the UJs and put them back together it looks like the end caps are pressed in and rivited over, Is there a technique to this or do i have to resort to the saw the two sections in half and stick them together technique?

TIA

Caber


mookaloid - 17/1/06 at 10:34 PM

The propshaft is a very dangerous lump of metal if it fails at speed 2" from your leg.

Get it sorted professionally is my advice

Cheers

Mark


Mark Allanson - 17/1/06 at 10:49 PM

Several factors do repair kits complete with circlips to retain the new bearings, I made my own before I realised that the capri prop was within 8mm of the optimal length (search my name with prop).

If in doubt about you welding capabilities or the suitabilities of the repair kits, buy a complete prop for about £140


robertwa - 17/1/06 at 11:16 PM

I can't speak for the Capri shaft, but it sounds like you have the type which has non-rebuildable u-joints. Instead of circlips they press in the end caps and swage the metal around the hole to prevent them coming out. Must be cheaper to produce that way. The u-joint is designed to be non-serviceable. It may also be evident from the lack of a grease nipple. Unfortunately there is not much you can do yourself here.
Rob


muzchap - 17/1/06 at 11:25 PM

I'd give Bailey Morris a ring....

HERE

They are excellent, everything is custom made and balanced.

As Mookaloid said - why risk something spinning at that speed 2" from your ASS!

Just aint worth it :-)

You wouldn't scrimp on the brakes either would ya?

M


mangogrooveworkshop - 17/1/06 at 11:57 PM

Rescued attachment propshaft ouch.jpg
Rescued attachment propshaft ouch.jpg


Simon - 18/1/06 at 12:13 AM

Yeah, like 6000 rpm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ATB

Simon


clbarclay - 18/1/06 at 12:44 AM

£140 sounds a little steep to me.

I paid about £80 (without delivery, as they were local) for my prop. which was custom made, balanced and fitted with circlips and grease nipples. All new parts as well. Unfortunately I can't remeber the name of the company.


JB - 19/1/06 at 04:41 PM

The prop you describe has joints that are staked into place. Basically this means the metal is peened over to hold the uj in place. This is very common on Ford shafts and other makes (Mercedes Sprinter and Japanese cars)

The joints can be replaced with the correct special hand tool which any propshaft firm will have.

When shortening a prop shaft you NEVER cut it in the middle and reweld it. It is always done at the ends. The shaft you have has friction welded yokes. These can be shortend (I have done hundreds) but you really need to know the exact inside diameter of the tube and just where to turn a stub.

Goto a prop specialist and get them to do the work for you.

John


caber - 19/1/06 at 06:25 PM

JB

WHat does the correct hand tool look like what is it called and where do I get one?

Caber:-)


JB - 19/1/06 at 06:44 PM

The tool to stake propshaft UJ`s looks like a big G cramp. It is held in a vice and takes a pair of hardened staking tools.

The staking tools are pieces of bar with the end turned down in diameter with 6 little pieces stuck out. Basically it wil reform the 6 staking points in the yoke.

There is also a spacer plate that goes inbetween the 2 sides of the yoke.

We used to get ours from IMS, but they will probably not deal with retail. I would also expect the cost to be around the price of 2 or 3 new propshafts. You also require a 19mm dia hand reamer to clean out the yoke.

John


caber - 19/1/06 at 06:51 PM

OK so how do you get old staked ones out?

Caber


JB - 19/1/06 at 07:00 PM

A vice, hammer and punch will remove them.

Open the vice and rest the yoke ears of the shaft on each jaw. Then hit the yoke down. If you are lucky the uj cap will come up through the stakes, but what will normally happen is the end of the cap will pop out and you will get needles flying everywhere.

If the cap does move you then have to drop some needles into the bottom of the cap to get more movement.

Repeat the above until the cap is out.

If the cap end pops out then you have to get busy with the punch and try to tap the sleeve of the cap out of the yoke.

If things get really desperate we used to gas axe through the uj cross and then push out the sleeve of the cap with another complete cap.

These ujs are awkward to do and best left to the pros. Even with all the kit I hated doing them often got them wrong when crimping.

John


caber - 19/1/06 at 07:03 PM

OK I'll have a go tonight and if it doesn't work off to engineering shop tomorrow.

Caber


oliwb - 19/1/06 at 07:52 PM

Caber, I think tiger do ones for about £80 balanced and powder coated and everything...not a bad deal. Alternatively any chance a landy one would fit in?? £44! Would make it very cheap if it does! Oli.


caber - 19/1/06 at 09:50 PM

Oli I doubt it! I trashed one of the UJ's tonight trying to get the bearings out It's just so annoying because it is pretty easy to fix landy UJs wht's more you can actually grease them unlike these Ford "lubricated for life" things. I need to find a prop specialist in Edinburgh or near to preferably that will be open on Saturday morning and I should think it will be less than £80 to fit the gearbox spline to the existing shaft with new needle bearings !

Caber