I had thought that exhaust wrap needed some sort of resin coating or impregnation when used around the exhaust manifold. But when I got some of the woven stuff at my local motorsport place they said it just goes on as it is. What's the procedure folks?

(Trying to keep the offside engine bay cooler for brake cylinder and pipe runs etc)

you just wrap it round,use stainless cv boot ties to secure,it works as well.

when you wrap it wear some latex gloves and a face mask or you will be scratching for weeks, oh and it smokes like hell when you first run the motor and once you have run it should you take the wrap off you won't be able to get it on again, goes brittle..

Thanks

i spent £50 for exhaust wrap, as i thought
a)it would look snazzy
b)my under bonnet temp would be lower
C) it would cover my home made manifold up
d) less wasted heat more power
all of my above comments were total bollocks
as a) it looked great for one day and then went brown
b) did not seem to make any "visible" differance to the under bonnet temp
c) the biggest bummer of them all was having my beatiful custom chrome exhaust go brown and blue due to the extra heat that was generated further down the exhaust , my silencer looked dreadful
custom chrome were brilliant "graham" had a good look at the exhaust and was baffled (no pun intended) to why my pipe and silencer had gone these strange colours, and was not far from sacking the chromer!!!
that was untill i lifted the bonnet, and hey presto he diagnosed the problem
"exhaust wrap"

conclusion "dont put the stuff on the exhaust""
it does not do what it says on the tin (aka ronseal)

Surely, if it made the rest of your exhaust change colour due to extra heat, then it did do what it was supposed to.

Maybe the under bonnet heat is not all down to exhaust heat.
Better ventilation is the only sure way to reduce under bonnet heat.

Terry

ps. having side pipes, do you really want to make them hotter?

Bull,
I think you miss my point
I would not use it again due the comments i made
also i have now removed the wrap off my manifold, to my surprise it is very rusty
and two severe cracks to weld up
all in all a total waste of £50

ps. having side pipes, do you really want to make them hotter?
if i new that before i would not have fitted the stuff

steve

quote:

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Originally posted by steve m
Bull,
I think you miss my point
I would not use it again due the comments i made
also i have now removed the wrap off my manifold, to my surprise it is very rusty
and two severe cracks to weld up
all in all a total waste of £50

ps. having side pipes, do you really want to make them hotter?
if i new that before i would not have fitted the stuff

steve

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I'm using the wrap down to the silencer,but only cos the people at SVA want this.
Seems silly as i've never seen a motor bike with it on.

As for hiding things not sure about that one.

[Edited on 11/29/02 by bob]

exhaust wrap does lower the temp we stick it round to stop mk2s melting clutch cables (stick some on cable to be doubly sure)

it also helps the gases get out of the manifold quicker (better for high revving engines) and can help fuel consumptoin (apparently)

but like every thing it depends which you buy


dont all exhausts go rusty and how can it retain moisture surly it would evaporate

quality exhaust wrap does keep the under bonnet temp down

Thanks for the replies - it really was just how do you put it on. I thought I'd seen or heard of some sort of coating or something that went on as well as the bandage.

Anyway, in view of the experiences of shifting the heat elsewhere I'll probably forget it. You're right about not wanting the side pipes any hotter - when I get it out and all the rubber neckers come round I'm always dead scared someone will get burnt.

As for general heat I'm not too bothered - it does get warm on that side of the engine bay but I've never had overheating problems. It's just that the master cylinder and initial pipe runs are v close to the manifold. Plan B will be for some ally or stainless heat shields and racing fluid.

racing fluid is allways a good idea...we also use a sticky back alluminised sheet, very flexible..that is realy good at heat protection, perhaps you coukld use something like that to protect the relevant areas..you can see from the pic big fire but the bits covered in the sheet were undamaged..
Rescued attachment Start the rebuild.JPG

the thing bout racin fluid does it not need changed more frequently
not a prob on race cars as there always gettin calipers changed and such but hopefully your locost wont need the work done to it

and at 20quid a bottle it could get expensive

we don't change calipers unless one fails, we do bleed the brakes after every race though, the reason being is the heat involved, your road car would never get that hot (on a track day maybe, but your pads would give out first) bear in mind if you were to use the same compound pads as our racer you would never have any brakes because you wouldn't get them hot enough to work...