OK following on from my recent post about clutch problems I have finally removed clutch and bearing.

Now I know the basics of how a clutch works but need clarification on something. Also can you have a look at the pics of the clutch plate and see if anything seems strange for a clutch that's done 3000 miles. There is a strange brown markings all around. Could this be oil contamination from a leaking rear main?? Or does it look normal?

Pic one of clutch



Description

Pic 2



Description

OK so now here is the bit I'm not sure about. OK, so take this picture of my release bearing. Should part 1 smoothly rotate or should part 2 smoothly rotate or both parts. Not a trick question



Description

As usual appreciate any help and/or advice.

Ta

Andy

The brown markings look normalish. Could be rust dust from the flywheel etc.

The release bearing only number 1 should spin.

Looks fairly normal.

Are you using the correct bearing because you get flat ones and curved ones depending on the shape of the clutch springs

quote:

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Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
Looks fairly normal.

Are you using the correct bearing because you get flat ones and curved ones depending on the shape of the clutch springs

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In use in the sierra and mondeo the release bearing is held in light contact with the diaphragm fingers and the bearing rotates at all times, but lightly loaded. Type nine to mondeo zetec flywheel should be CCT133 bearing. If you fit a zetec flywheel, usually the 1.8 redrilled for a pinto clutch pressure plate and diaphragm because they take more power, the pinto release bearing CCT132 is fine (the bearing is shorter than the 133 but the clutch package is taller so all works fine). You can use the 132 with the zetec clutch package but you then have to compensate for short bearing and short clutch package by moving the clutch arm pivot about 10-15mm forward.
If you use an after-market flywheel ask the supplier what bearing it needs.
Clutch drag is when on full depression of the clutch pedal the clutch is not fully released/freed so still exerts a drag between engine and gearbox. They don't become fully independent. Leads to graunched gear changes and difficulty engaging reverse or first when stationary.
Yes, the bearing you show does look like a 133.

[Edited on 19/1/15 by Dusty]

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Originally posted by Dusty
In use in the sierra and mondeo the release bearing is held in light contact with the diaphragm fingers and the bearing rotates at all times, but lightly loaded. Type nine to mondeo zetec flywheel should be CCT133 bearing. If you fit a zetec flywheel, usually the 1.8 redrilled for a pinto clutch pressure plate and diaphragm because they take more power, the pinto release bearing CCT132 is fine (the bearing is shorter than the 133 but the clutch package is taller so all works fine). You can use the 132 with the zetec clutch package but you then have to compensate for short bearing and short clutch package by moving the clutch arm pivot about 10-15mm forward.
If you use an after-market flywheel ask the supplier what bearing it needs.
Clutch drag is when on full depression of the clutch pedal the clutch is not fully released/freed so still exerts a drag between engine and gearbox. They don't become fully independent. Leads to graunched gear changes and difficulty engaging reverse or first when stationary.
Yes, the bearing you show does look like a 133.

[Edited on 19/1/15 by Dusty]

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As a rule, if the face of the thrust bearing is flat (like yours pictured) then the fingers of the clutch should be the bent round type at the ends where they contact. If on the other hand the thrust bearing has rounded face, then the fingers of the clutch should be flat/straight. Flat onto flat or rounded onto rounded isn't good.

It's just a point to remember when mixing and matching parts.

Ian

edit...just going back to your other post with a picture of the cover, they're rounded so the combination is ok...ignore this post for your problem lol

[Edited on 20/1/15 by Oddified]

[Edited on 20/1/15 by Oddified]

The brown marks on the clutch face are surface rust from the flywheel. This in itself can cause all the problems you describe (judder and not disengaging). Not unusual for a car that is not use much. I have been out to cars where the clutch has rusted solid to the flywheel. The answer is to use the car more and keep it somewhere dry.

In the picture of the centre plate it appears to be painted. Is this because it was a cheap re-con clutch? If so they are also prone to the problems you describe.

Bearing length and pivot length is all about getting the clutch arm is the centre of the hole in the bell housing so you don't run out of movement.

I've got the longer pivot pin in mine & it seems OK.

I believe it's absolutely essential to use a longer one.

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Originally posted by turnipfarmer
I've got the longer pivot pin in mine & it seems OK.

I believe it's absolutely essential to use a longer one.

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