I need to sort out my fuel tank soon.


Currently its only has a filler neck, and out and breather.

Hence I need to somehow mount a sender, I'd prefer not to have to take it out to get it ali welded, so what are the options for fitting a sender, its not thick enough to drill and tap.

[Edited on 15/9/14 by mikeb]

Could you use rivnits?

Will need to come out really to clean out the crap from cutting/drilling the holes for sender surely?

If you do take it out and are using a VDO sender Merlin Motorsport do some nice alloy fixing rings to weld to the tank

The older vdo senders fit without any welding , they have a ring with threaded holes that fits inside the tank. Awkward as he'll to fit, but works.

Not easy to solve without taking out...

Not sure if it would work with the gauge you plan to use but the standar Sierra sender is a twist fit into three tabs cut in the tank. I used this with my acewell and it works fine - I just cut the hole in the tank to match the Sierra one.

You would still have difficulty cutitng the tank without getting loads of filings in there though.

Here's how I mounted mine, would recommend using a "C" plate with rivnuts rather than rivnuts in the actual tank. No welding and sealed well with no leaks once gasket and top plate fitted.

Fuel Sender
But like others have said you really need to remove the tank to clean it out after.

the VDO Dip-Pipe Fuel Level Sensor can go in using a c clamp and no extra bolt holes if i remember correctly from when I used one. I guess as long as the hole you have is already an appropriate size.

I had the same problem and ended up drilling 6 holes for bolts around the sender hole in the tank (I held a small cap under each hole whilst I was drilling it to catch the swarf). I then put cap screws in each hole from the inside of the tank (i.e. thread pointing up) and glued them in place using superglue with powder (Q-bond). I then inserted the sender over the threads and put the nuts on - normal nuts, not nyloc as I didn't want to risk having to use too much torque in case the glue came away.

Its a bit fiddly and you need to be careful not to drop anything into the tank through the sender, but as long as its only a couple of little bits, you can vacuum it out.

Still secure after 200 miles of driving.

Having said all that, at the time, I didn't know that you could get c-plates with threaded holes!