Thought I'd start a new thread showing my journey through getting my Rover V8 ready for its new home (its already in there!)

Its a 3.9 from where I do not know, I got it out a very mint 90 that was being rebuilt to its original diesel spec.

I think it started life in a Range rover as it has 3.95/1 on the head and is attached to a ZF22 4 speed auto and the odd transfer box. (not sure what its called but its not the common one)

So, after peaking under one of the rocker covers I wasnt sure but have decided on a internal clean up, not taking the heads off OR the engine out the chassis!

Heres the rocker gear:



Not nice as the motor had a brand new oil filter on it and the oil didn't look too bad....

Anyway, got the inlet manifold off and the valley gasket out today, was expecting it to be worse (more black gunk) than this:



Looking at the cams and reading RPI's guide, http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm#inside I can see its maybe in need of a new cam and followers:




Next step is to get the front cover off and check the timing chain....

Any advise what this look like?

Cheers,
Steve

Were did they cast those blocks? There is a lot of flashing in the area od the cam followers in the valley. I would be tempted to smooth that area if you were going to do a re-build.

When I got my V8, the exhaust cam on 3 was nearly circular

It seems the engine is quite tolerant. If you can get the cam out without taking the engine out, it'd be silly not to do it though.

I'd probably get a new cam and followers if I had it all apart like you have. And at least a new timing chain. I bought all my stuff from V8tuner and the fellow was very helpful down the telephone. I went for a bog standard 3.9 cam as I am not that interested is high bhp. Also RealSteel have a good reputation for RV8s. I know a couple of people that have bought the hurricane cam from them and they are pleased with it.

Thank, yes the plan so far is new can followers and heavy duty timing chain.

Scudder, when you say get the can out without removing the engine, what do you mean? Is it not just a matter of removing the front cover, rockers and pushing the followers right back then pulling it out?

There's nothing in front of mine atm to restrict access to the front....

quote:

---

Originally posted by coozer
Thank, yes the plan so far is new can followers and heavy duty timing chain.

Scudder, when you say get the can out without removing the engine, what do you mean? Is it not just a matter of removing the front cover, rockers and pushing the followers right back then pulling it out?

There's nothing in front of mine atm to restrict access to the front....

---

I changed the cam in my p38 range rover from the front, I was even able to get the A/C condensing rad out the way without leaking gas

Front cover off, the cam drags out once you have the followers lifted.

Got the front cover off today and its no where near as bad as I was expecting.

Is this the standard timing gear? was expecting something else (nylon).



Chain is pissy slack tho..



Inside the cover looks OKish as well..



So is removing the cam simply unding that bolt in the centre removing the gear wheel and sliding it out?

Thanks,
Steve

Use a 3-4"bolt in the cam gear bolt hole to steady the cam while removing and replacing the cam, cam bearings are easily scored by the edges of the new cam lobes.

Ok, cheers, cam came out very easy. bearings look very good.

Heres a good look at the lobes..



And, while I'm down to here, and, I know I said I didnt want to take the heads off, but for the sake of a few bolts is it worth renewing the head gaskets? Can I reuse the head bolts??



Sump coming off next then which new cam???

Looks like a standard gear set to me.

3.9 cam kit, cut a new woodruff key slot in the bottom gear (little square needle file) to give around 7 degrees advance to increase bottom and mid range then enjoy.

I used to do this in the landrovers I raced and trialled years ago.

When you look at the bottom gear the keyway is in line with a tooth so cut a new one 1/3 of the way around a bit off this point, it makes a difference when mud plugging as you can grind along in a tall gear slowly and it will pick up more cleanly cleanly from idle.

Hmm, not sure what you mean there mate, looking at a timing kit with 3 grooves for the ruff key from real steel. Is that what you mean for advancing the cam?

Yes, but rather than paying £50 for the cloyes gear set spend £25 on the standard gears just carefully file a new keyway in the crankshaft cog

Maybe I,m just a bit mean

quote:

---

Originally posted by mark chandler
Yes, but rather than paying £50 for the cloyes gear set spend £25 on the standard gears just carefully file a new keyway in the crankshaft cog

Maybe I,m just a bit mean

---

Description

Just ebay Rover V8 Front Cover stainless bolts and lots come up. What are you going to do about your oil pump?

I would assume changing the cam timing from standard may well help power in one area, but reduce it in another - never tried it on a rover v8 but we have on zetecs and pintos. Swinging the cam timing often give good gains - we did see another 6bhp on an otherwise stock rs2000 pinto.

The rover v8 has enough low to mid range power in my opinion, it's the higher rev range it struggles with.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Irony
Just ebay Rover V8 Front Cover stainless bolts and lots come up. What are you going to do about your oil pump?

---

Anyone used thewedgestopstore or can recommend them?

Parts over there look very cheap indeed..

http://www.thewedgeshopstore.com/products/Cloyes-double-roller-timing-chain.html

Got the sump off today, messy job, it had been stuck on with black stuff, thick round the corners, thin along the straights and a few bolts missing. Fair bit of gunge in the bottom (drained) and a sitting on top of the pick up strainer.

Was sump sticky out of a tube gasket stuff used on the range rover or do they all use a cork gasket?

Sumps going in the electrolysis bath for a clean up

I believe the 3.9's used special black sump sealant, landrover certainly sold it and used it for leaky cars.

A little cam advance pulls in extra mid and low range at a small expense of top end, it works out like 7% better low down to 3% off the top with a small cam advance, 5-7 degrees.

When digging through mud it's what you need, I raced and trialled landrovers for maybe 15 years, it's very different to thrashing something on the track as you rarely need maximum revs unless you want to start snapping half shafts.