Fed up of oil leaks and performance issues !!

Next week picking up a 2.0L Blacktop 61K on engine..

Should I just clean it up, change belt, Sump & leave all internals well alone?

Cheers..

Any tips more than welcome..

That's all I would do , no point spending time and money when you don't need to . Might be worth changing the big end bolts for ARP bolts although I'm sure loads haven't

That's exactly what I've just done!
How are you planning on running the engine?
I went with standard ECU and ignition, wasn't too bad to get running!

I just did head gasket, valve seals and cam belt. Runs fine. Unless you know of an issue I would just leave it be. At a minimum though, change the cam belt.

I got a NODIZ 3D ignition unit plugged into a Ford coil pack on the Xflow.
All I have to do is plug it into the Blacktop Zetec coil pack - calibrate tdc - load a map.
I know bike is the way to go but will re jet & use the twin 40's with tps.

I have seen this adapter to get me up n running MONDEO ZETEC BANGER CARB ADAPTOR

Exhaust I plan to modify my 4 into 1 stainless - cover with exhaust wrap Ford Zetec 1.8 2.0 Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold Flange 10mm Escort Kit Car

For the price of them i'd do water pump at the same time as the cam belt

I fitted a 65k 2 litre Black Top to my single seater, fitted a dry sump system, a set of R1 carbs and use Megajolt and the Ford Edis unit to set fire to the petrol..

I think the only ball ache will be a scholar zetec sump for £250
More than what the engine cost!

quote:

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Originally posted by johnemms
I think the only ball ache will be a scholar zetec sump for £250

More than what the engine cost!

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I farted about with mine, head off, lapped in valves, reshimmed the lifters, new head gasket, valve stem seals etc. Shouldn't have bothered, it was in good condition inside, and that was an £80 ebay job with no history. New cam belt, water pump, and throw it in- if it goes bang try another!

I didn't bother with rod bolts as I wasn't changing the cams. The cams run out of puff before the standard Ford rev limit anyway, so should be fine. I had strontium dog on here modify my sump and pickup (£100 from memory), but I haven't seen him post for a while.

The only issue I had was getting the oil pump to prime, which was solved with a baked bean tin cut in half blue tacked over the filter housing, filled with oil and turned the engine over backwards.

quote:

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Originally posted by johnemms
Fed up of oil leaks and performance probs

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Me 3. no idea where this latest leak is coming from but 1.6 black top planned for next year

Can't say that my cross flow has any oil leaks or performance issues! a decent sump gasket and rocker cover seems to have sorted any oil leaks

I was hoping to use it this year for some touring..
But that leak at the flywheel means its gotta come out.
I really don't like drippy drippy on the driveway either!

If its out - its staying out!

I only get about 100bhp at the wheels out of the Xflow.
I'm not spending £100's on a big valve head..
Or a changing the cam..
Or a rolling road session..

I think spannering in a Zetec will be a good move!

Time to make a list of bits needed

When I did my X-Flow to Zetec conversion I expected and big improvement over my X-Flow and I wasn't disappointed, I also expected a big bill, again I wasn't disappointed.

Did all the work myself, in truth the only mechanic to touch my Sevens in 25 years has been the MOT man. I used as many parts from the X-Flow as I could to keep costs down.

It went something like this (approximately) 12 years ago.

Used 2 litre Silvertop £250
Twin 45's From X_Flow
Inlet Manifold £100
Air Filters From X_Flow
Electric Fuel Pump From X_Flow
Silencer From X-Flow
Exhaust Manifold £400
Dunnell Sump £250
Steel flywheel £100
Clutch Kit £70
Starter From X-Flow
Alternator £40
Pulley and belt £30
Weber Alpha Ignition (inc. Loom) £330
Engine Mounts £70
Silicone Hoses £100
Alloy bypass pipes £40
Radiator From X_Flow

All that little lot came to almost £1800.

I could have saved in some areas. Did not have to change the flywheel but the 2 litre one is a boat anchor and the price difference between lightening it and buying a pukka steel one was only a few pounds. Even if had been substantial I would still have bought the steel one since lightened ones can and do explode, how much are a new pair of feet? Could have got a cheaper exhaust manifold made but cheap ones break and I knew the chap who made mine was a real artist in stainless and he had made my x-flow one previously. 12 years on it was well worth it.

There were other costs. While the engine was on the stand having the waterpump changed to the correct Escort one it was crazy not replacing the cam belt and pulleys. Those items came to well over £100, the pulleys were surprisingly expensive. Also replaced Coil, leads and plugs, they were 8 years old and probably past their best, another £60. Then there were the exhaust, inlet and sump gaskets also replaced the cam cover gasket and a leaky rear oil seal probably another £50.

Total was now over £2000.

Started the change over early Saturday morning, all went perfectly, the Zetec was in and the car back in the garage by 2.00 pm, we even had fish and chips.

It started first touch of the key, took me by surprise.

But then there was a RR session to pay for.

So don't think its a cheap job, its not. But my £2000 was way less than the £6000 bill some people I know have paid to have the job done professionally, but they did get a new engine.

All I've done with the car is fix it!
New polly bushes.
New front wishbones with camber adjusters.
New dashboard & clocks
Lots of carb setting.
Sump on and off lots of times.
Duplex chain and vernier.
Dizzy modified then changed to NODIZ Ecu.
Mapping galore..
New ProTech shocks n springs.
Lots of other things ..too many to mention..
Now changing engine and probably bonnet..
Followed by a re-spray .. arghh ..lol

One day I may be able to drive it

This was what it looked like in the back of my van..

It Arrives

After a load of work - trial fit

try fit