You guys that have gone the Duratec route. Did you go for a cable clutch or hydraulic option?

I am trying to source the best deal on a Bellhousing and have been advised that a hydraulic clutch would be the best way to go. My current setup is a Cable system.. Is this a huge job to change ?



I am hoping to get everything together to do a Pinto out and Duratec in, in a day.

Hydraulic is a bit better, but for the milage these cars do it doesnt really matter.

RWD Motorsport do a cable clutch bellhousing....

David

Check out Flakmonkey's excellent thread (engine section) and his website. Loooooads of great info there on doing it all for a good price. (well, till he got all excited by Caterham roller barrels and the like )

Cheers,
James

EDIT: Haha, Flak beat me to it!

[Edited on 13/4/11 by James]

I am doing this at the moment and have bought the RWD cable clutch bellhousing. I didn't want to hack my pedal box about (all 3 floor mounted on one structure) if I didn't need to.

I then bought the Raceline flywheel and clutch setup but this does NOT work with the release bearing. The options are to find a longer release bearing (but needs to be rounded not flat) or to move the pivot point out by changing the pivot pin. After a lot of research and mucking about nothing was a practicle solution. The problem is due to the fact that the Raceline flywheel is drilled for rover parts, and the RWD is designed to use Pinto.

I have sent back the Raceline parts and now bought the flywheel from RWD as well, but then opted to buy the uprated AP pinto clutch rather than the standard one they usually sell (given the power of the Duratec). Hopefully should all arrive Friday and I can see it all fits!

Hope that helps.

I would agree with Flak Monkey but I always do as I have followed his guidance throughout my Duratec Build.

Here's a picture of mine Its a Titan Bell Housing, Titan Slave cylinder, SAAB style bearing from Titan, with a spacer behind the cylinder to adjust its position closer to the clutch pressure plate depth depends on your set up and has to be measured, yes from Titan.

You will need to cut off the guide tube that the input shaft passes through to fit one.

I've used an AP racing HD Pinto friction plate.

An Heavy duty RS Turbo clutch pressure plate, as original good for about 130HP, this one good for about 250HP.

Had also to trim the length of the clutch plate fingers by 2-3 mm, all fits nicely together, but not yet got the engine in to test.




Duratec clutch cylinder