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raceline water rail
chris666 - 16/11/10 at 06:23 PM

Whats the best setup when it comes to the raceline water rail?According to raceline no expansion/overflow bottle is needed,and on warmup there is alot or water coming out of the overflow.is this normal on the 1st run?

Chris


Tiger Super Six - 16/11/10 at 06:29 PM

I ran mine without an expansion and it did push water out. Then when you ran it again no further water was pushed out.

As a bit of a check I used to then pour the water back in from time to time and make sure that the same amount came back out again, which it did.

HTH


chris666 - 16/11/10 at 06:32 PM

Out of interest, what temp do you have your fan cutting in at?
Thanks

Chris


coozer - 16/11/10 at 06:42 PM

I used one for a bit, what a nightmare!

The thermostat is too far away from the head to work properly.

I did a track day in October 2008 and ran all the way home in the dark up the A19 with the choke out!

Waste of good money, reverted back to the Ford housing with a aerial pole from b&q and its been solid as rock ever since!


r1_pete - 16/11/10 at 07:39 PM

This setup worked perfectly, the cap on the raceline rail is a plain non pressure cap from an Austin 1100, the header tank cap is the pressure releif.
enginedone
enginedone


big_wasa - 16/11/10 at 09:18 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Tiger Super Six
I ran mine without an expansion and it did push water out. Then when you ran it again no further water was pushed out.

As a bit of a check I used to then pour the water back in from time to time and make sure that the same amount came back out again, which it did.

HTH


I do the same with mine.


big_wasa - 16/11/10 at 09:20 PM

quote:
Originally posted by coozer
I used one for a bit, what a nightmare!

The thermostat is too far away from the head to work properly.

I did a track day in October 2008 and ran all the way home in the dark up the A19 with the choke out!

Waste of good money, reverted back to the Ford housing with a aerial pole from b&q and its been solid as rock ever since!


I would use the standard stat housing if I could fit it in the chassis.


austin man - 16/11/10 at 09:52 PM

toy dont need the raceline one if fitting in a seven as there is plenty of room at the back of the engine for the ford unit


britishtrident - 17/11/10 at 08:39 AM

quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
I used one for a bit, what a nightmare!

The thermostat is too far away from the head to work properly.

I did a track day in October 2008 and ran all the way home in the dark up the A19 with the choke out!

Waste of good money, reverted back to the Ford housing with a aerial pole from b&q and its been solid as rock ever since!


I would use the standard stat housing if I could fit it in the chassis.


The problem with the thermostat is they didn't design a by-pass into the remote housing. The best remote thermostat is the Landrover TD5 thermostat (part number PEM100990 also used on the last MG TF and Rover 75 1.8 models) this fits into the bottom hose and forms a by-pass via a T piece inserted into the top hose.
This type of thermostat has special design features that will keep the engine temperature rock steady without hot or cold spots forming in the engine.


britishtrident - 17/11/10 at 08:43 AM

quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
This setup worked perfectly, the cap on the raceline rail is a plain non pressure cap from an Austin 1100, the header tank cap is the pressure releif.
]



To quote "Mr Punch" That's the way to do it ! :-)

A not quite so good way to do it is use and pressurised cap on the the water rail and non presurised expansion bottele from a Japanese car or Honda engined Rover.


Tiger Super Six - 17/11/10 at 09:20 AM

quote:
Originally posted by chris666
Out of interest, what temp do you have your fan cutting in at?
Thanks

Chris


Cuts in at just over 90.


chris666 - 17/11/10 at 08:07 PM

How big does the hole in the thermostat need to be,that race line says to needs there.

Chris

[Edited on 17/11/10 by chris666]


britishtrident - 18/11/10 at 07:05 PM

The hole in the thermostat will form the only by-pass it works to an extent but is an awful bodge the engine temp will go up and down like yoyo and you will get hot and cold spots in the water jacket.

For an external thermostat the Rover/LandRover PRRT is the best solution it opens under both temperature and flow temperature, and it is cheap.