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no spark
RMarine - 6/7/10 at 02:21 PM

Hi guys, well i took the day off to get the car started for the 1st time, and i seem to have two problems. 1st, the bike fuel pump keeps on pumping petrol and it is pissing all over the floor.... from the bottom of the carbs. and the 2nd is i have no spark... i am running a mega jolt to 1.8 zetec and using gs9r carbs. i am lost... i have filled the carbs with fuel and discounted the pump so i can work on the "no spark problem 1st.. i have tested the cable going to coil pack and seems fine (but as i know nothing about how a coil pack works.....) Any help would be great. Thanks


Mal - 6/7/10 at 02:30 PM

Go to the ExtraEFI website and if you look you should be able to find a photo of a coil pack showing which is the 'A' and 'B' spark connections on the 3 pin plug.
Please note that ExtraEFI is for Megasquirt, not Megajolt, but the picture is relevant to both.

HTH

Mal


Mal - 6/7/10 at 02:32 PM

Forgot to say that a common problem is getting the polarity of the VR sensor the wrong way round.

Mal


vinny1275 - 6/7/10 at 02:34 PM

Are you getting any sparks at all? (If you take a plug out, put the lead on, hold it with something non-conductive, put the thread of the plug agains the head / block and turn it over is anything happening?)

Where are you getting your spark trigger from? Are you using VR sensor / EDIS?

Cheers


Vince


RMarine - 6/7/10 at 02:45 PM

i am using a edis... and i am not getting any spark.. i have put a multimeter on the cable going to the coil pack and i get a voltage reading when i test the middle pin and the ignition is on and a voltage reading for pin1&3 when i am trying to turn it over...


bob - 6/7/10 at 02:47 PM

The big mistake most of the time is reading the picture upside down/back to front, also check your earths i had a problem with this using MJ3 at first.


bob - 6/7/10 at 02:48 PM

And another Rescued attachment mjlj_3pinouts.png
Rescued attachment mjlj_3pinouts.png


matt_gsxr - 6/7/10 at 02:52 PM

Other potential problem. Is wiring the megasquirt power feed to a connection on the ignition switch that isn't live whilst cranking.

Matt


bob - 6/7/10 at 02:56 PM

Also is the fuel pump matched to the carbs, ie is it a carb pump ?

My R1 carb pump stops under pressure,its self regulated which simpifies the fitment a bit. Bike carbs do not need a lot of pressure to work so if your using another pump it would have to be regulated anyway.


bob - 6/7/10 at 03:08 PM

Reading through my old notes from when i fitted the zetec, i had a very intermittent spark problem which turned out to be a bad earth to the ECU MJ V3 unit.

Also remember they spark in pairs on the zetec 1-3 then 2-4 but only one cylinder sparks on inductuction as the other is a wasted spark and will fire at the end of the exhaust stroke.


RMarine - 6/7/10 at 03:09 PM

Bob, can you repost the coil pack connector?
the pump came with the carbs and i was told that it was the right pump for the carbs, but i will check with the chap i got the carbs from


vinny1275 - 6/7/10 at 03:10 PM

put your multimeter to AC, and put it on the VR sensor output - if you're not getting anything here, then EDIS won't be sparking, and either the VR sensor is nadged, or the reader isn't close enough to the trigger wheel. If you're getting a reading, then try swapping the VR leads over at the MJ end, it is easy to get them mixed up when looking at the diagrams.....

Good luck!


Vince


RMarine - 6/7/10 at 03:22 PM

i have connected the vr sensor cable to the crank sensor, is that right?


bob - 6/7/10 at 04:02 PM

I took this off a previous post as i thought it was already on another pic, but here goes. Rescued attachment pot4.gif
Rescued attachment pot4.gif


bob - 6/7/10 at 04:17 PM

I'm sure you are looking at the shape of the edis plug and coil pack plug in the pictures put up to determine 1 to 12 and 1/2/3. Rescued attachment 2010020320424481381megajolt.jpg
Rescued attachment 2010020320424481381megajolt.jpg


bob - 6/7/10 at 04:18 PM

I'll pop in the garage and see if i can see my coil pack wire colours .


bob - 6/7/10 at 04:32 PM

anyway to clear the coilpack plug wiring looking at engine from exhaust side GREEN/RED nearest engine BLACK in middle and GREEN/YELLOW bulkhead side.

GREEN/YELLOW = coil B number 1 to number 12 and GREEN/RED = coil A number 3 to number 10.


RMarine - 6/7/10 at 04:45 PM

thanks chap for running around for me... i think that this may be above me, i may have to put a SOS call into members that live close to me, and see if anyone can come around and shed some light on this problem. however i will look at the wire colours tomorrow night and let you guys know the outcome. thanks guys


bob - 6/7/10 at 06:14 PM

Not to complicate things more but another point re the pump running on, are your carbs fitted with TPS throttle position sensor ?

I'm not sure how much of difference this will make if not wired or set up properly but might sort that problem.


RMarine - 6/7/10 at 07:03 PM

Bob, it does have a tps, but funny thing is that when you look on the lap top at the tps it says it open to 101%. that was my 3rd problem.........


RMarine - 13/7/10 at 10:23 PM

right, i have realised that i had wired the edis connector up side down, i have now sorted that and it still isn't sparking Could i have blown the edis unit or the coil pack by trying to start the car while the edis was wired up wrong??? also i have change the crank sensor and i am still not getting a strong signal. any ideas?????


scudderfish - 14/7/10 at 06:17 AM

You're unlikely to have blown your EDIS. I managed to wire mine up wrong in all sorts of ways and I never killed it

When you say you aren't getting a strong signal, how are you measuring it and what do you get?

Have you tried swapping the wires on the VR sensor?


RMarine - 14/7/10 at 05:07 PM

well, i have a multimeter 1.5v and i attach the probes to the pins in the edis connector and the reading goes from .000 to -.000 only when i 1st turn the key does it move up to .009 for a spilt second and when i let go of the key it jumps up to .003 agian only for a split second....

[Edited on 14/7/10 by RMarine]


scudderfish - 14/7/10 at 05:14 PM

OK, starting with the basics, let's completely ignore the ECU/EDIS, only the VR sensor and the trigger wheel. Check the following :-

1) VR sensor is within 1mm of the trigger wheel. I used a B&Q receipt (v thin) folded in half and trapped between the VR sensor and wheel when I clamped it up. That VR sensor has a few scratches on it where I got a bit too close to the trigger wheel
2) TW has to run across the centre of the sensor face. If the sensor is too far forward or back relative the the car, you will get a crap signal
3) If you draw a line along the length of the VR sensor, does it go through the centre of the trigger wheel?
If it is all lined up correctly you should see between 0.5-1v coming out of the sensor
4) Use a digital multimeter (for faster response) and set it to AC


RMarine - 14/7/10 at 05:18 PM

i am using the crank senor as the trigger wheel...is that right? and how do i set my multimeter to AC?


RMarine - 14/7/10 at 05:25 PM

right i think that i have figure that out i have set it to 200 V ( the sign has a ~ over the V) and i am geting 00.6 when i am cranking. but its still not starting.....


scudderfish - 14/7/10 at 05:32 PM

Is your trigger wheel 36-1 (i.e. it has 35 teeth and a gap)?

Do you have a good 12v feed to the coil pack?

Is the cable between the VR sensor and the EDIS screened?

Is the screen earthed only at one end?

Have you checked for a spark at the plugs?


RMarine - 14/7/10 at 05:32 PM

sorry...i am using the fly wheel as the trigger wheel.. sorry for the misunderstanding


scudderfish - 14/7/10 at 05:37 PM

Ah, just spotted you're running a Zetec, so whatever is already fitted to the engine is going to be fine. As you are reading 0.6v you are probably getting a good enough signal from the VR sensor.
For the sake of two minutes, swap the leads on the VR sensor, it foxed me for a while on my car, you never know....


RMarine - 14/7/10 at 05:47 PM

Success!!! i know have spark at cyclinder 1 &2 according to the timing light but not 3&4


scudderfish - 14/7/10 at 05:50 PM

That sounds like one side of your coil pack isn't firing, and you've not connected the right plug to the right post. If you hold the coil pack with the three wire plug facing you, 1 & 3 should be connected to one side and 2 & 4 the other.


scudderfish - 14/7/10 at 06:02 PM

Incidentally, if you're getting some sparks then it means your sensor is mounted OK, wired correctly, and you haven't completely fried you EDIS, so it is definitely good progress


RMarine - 14/7/10 at 06:05 PM

IT' S ALIVE..... bloody great. thanks for all your help!!!!!. now i have to get the megajolt working next !!


scudderfish - 14/7/10 at 06:07 PM

Fanbloodytastic!