Just thought id finished my inlet manifold and realised i hadnt put the waterway in it. Ive put the holes through the flange now but do they need to be seperate or can they just be made into 1. Was just going to weld some tube on and join to the original hose position with a rubber hose. No problems with that is there? Thanks

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i'm blocking mine off at the minute. don't know if its a bad idea yet

i'm going to get a thin ali palte made up to go between the cylinder head and the bit that screws on there. also blanking off the one on the back of my cylinder head. thats on the ecotec, not the red top though

what manifold are you using?


[Edited on 17/9/09 by blakep82]

Its a home made one, the old webber one i had had the waterway cast into it

[Edited on 17/9/09 by andrew-theasby]

i don't think its really needed tbh. it sems warm water round the manifold, but i can't think of anyone on here with bike carbs and a diy manifold that used the water way.

Ooh, just found this picture on migweb (near the bottom) and they appear to go to two seperate points, can anyone confirm please? link



[Edited on 17/9/09 by andrew-theasby]

ah, i think i got your question wrong. well, on my engine, top one goes to manifold heater through the brass 8mm thing, bottom hole goes to the in car heater hose with a 25mm alloy connection

shouldnt the bottom one go to the water pump? Can i do away with the top one then?

ah, perhaps it did. have the plumbing was missing on mine when i got it, so i can't really remember

just to confirm the bottom one should go into the water pump on the XE.

My outlet will be blocked off here though, its not vital.

ive drilled it already , so do they need to be kept seperate? thanks

I guess you have not incorporated a manifold heater in your new manifold?

if you have drilled both holes just route both of the outlets to the water pump together.

quote:

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Originally posted by cd.thomson
I guess you have not incorporated a manifold heater in your new manifold?

if you have drilled both holes just route both of the outlets to the water pump together.

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oooh lots of confusion!!!

Right, start from the top!

You need to circulate SOME water when the thermostat is shut.

If you are not blocking off the rear water port on the end of the head then that will provide more than enough circulation.

The two water ports into the head on the inlet manifold flange both just enter the waterways in the head.

You need a bleed point high up to get air out of the top of the head, and I use the top connection on the manifold for that, routed to the top of the header tank.

My plumbing is ridiculously simple, I have the bottom rad hose going straight to the water pump main port, the top hose going from the stat housing to the radiator via a header tank built into the hose, and the bleed off from the top of the inlet manifold to the top of the header tank.........

that's it.

Oh, and drill a small hole in the stat disc to get a tad more flow when its shut, or it gets a bit excitable until its warm.

hmm it would appear there is a lot of confusion on the topic, as this is not the advice I have been given on two separate occassions.

However I do acknowledge your godlyness in all things XE NSDEV

err I woudn't go that far!

I may have done it all wrong, but that's how mine is. The only issue was that until I drilled the stat, the bypass flow was too restricted without the bigger port in the inlet manifold (I have that blanked off) and it used to cavitate in the water pump a bit until it warmed up. Fine with a touch more cold flow until the stat opens.

Alternative is no stat but I don't like doing that on a road car. On those cold sunny september days the stat never really opens so going without one means a pretty rough time for the engine!

I guess the point with plumbing on any engine is to work out what flow is needed where, and plumb it to achieve that,

You often don't need all the manufacturers original stuff, they had a different agenda in a car with heater etc etc.

You basically need these things on any car:

1) Enough flow and rad capacity to keep it cool at full power under load at speed

2) Assuming 1 is satisfied, then also enough fan capacity to keep it cool when stationary, bearing in mind it won't be under load then.

3) Enough thermostat bypass flow to avoid boiling spots in the cyl head and to avoid the pump cavitating (you will hear that if it does it)

4) A bleed from the highest spot in the engine, to a point in the system where air is intentionally trapped at full system pressure (usually the header tank or rad top tank)

5) The aforementioned trapped air reserve must be enough to allow for the expansion of the water volume in the system. This isn't a lot, most manufacturers build in a big margin on this one. I only have around 100cc of expansion volume and its more than enough. If its not enough, it will throw water out when warm until it is enough!

[Edited on 19/9/09 by NS Dev]

Ok, thanks for the tips, whats best thing for the waxstat thingy on the throttle bodies? Is it best to just remove it, i presume that the megasquirt will compensate for that does it?

dunno what that is, does it alter water flow through them when they were on the bike?

If you are putting water through where it can block it off then get rid, otherwise leave it in.

It makes no odds at all on aftermarket injection, misconception that the manifold is heated, its just a handy device to act as a water port at the end of the head!

the thing on the top left
Rescued attachment blackbird throttle bodies small.jpg