bit of help needed guys,

started the car this morning and it got going, ran fine for a bit then cut out, maybe 10-15 seconds??

i have now done this half a dozzen times. i have no idea what is going on?? any help would be great!

webber 38 dgas on pinto (choke removed but have not had any problems starting), no mega squirt, just basic carb/engine (engine is bored to 2.1 with oversize pistons and kent fast road cams)

[Edited on 3/9/09 by 55ant]

[Edited on 3/9/09 by 55ant]

for the people who dont know your setup, whats the engine, what induction/fueling are you using, what engine management are you using, what stage of the build (with the engine) are you at?

cheers, edit made

It is difficult to diagnose without seeing it, but could be lack of fuel pressure. Try cleaning the filters and checking the pump.

What engine? What ignition system? What fuel system? Does it restart immediately?

Give us a clue


Damn must learn to type faster
Davie

[Edited on 3/9/09 by daviep]

Why did you take the choke off? You’ll need it to keep the engine going in the winter, I have the same carb on my 2.8 v6 and I know it would be hopeless without the choke flaps. That carb on a pinto is also very bad on fuel, your better with the 32/36 DGV one.

[Edited on 3/9/09 by Mr Whippy]

choke was elready off when i got the car, the housing has been ground of aswell so no way of putting on back on.



[Edited on 3/9/09 by 55ant]

My guess would be a vacuum in the fuel tank causing starvation. Either that or weak pumo / blocked fuel line.

good grief, looks rather butchered. Personally if this cars for road use I'd buy another one. Here's a company I've bought things from in the past, there a few others too. You might even be lucky and get just the top if they have some spare lying around.

linky

[Edited on 3/9/09 by Mr Whippy]

ok, well i havent got it going but ive taken the fuel filter out and its got plenty of bits of crap in it, but the car was running fine yesterday?? i took the carb of yesterday and then when i put it back on it took a while to start, i thought thats just due to filling the float chamber, would this have weekened the pump?

also after walking back to the car it looks like is leaked a trail of petreol down the drive where i have moved it out? not to much, say about a cans worth? (yep, precise measurements and all) could this be the sign of something giving up? or given up?

so this carb is pretty poor anyway should i just go down the bike carb route as i will need a seperate pump for that anywayz?

[Edited on 3/9/09 by 55ant]

[Edited on 3/9/09 by 55ant]

It could also be a blocked pre filter in the tank.

Engine not running, so you start it and it draws fuel through the filter. This causes all the localised muck in the fuel tank to be drawn into what is left of the clear pre filter causing it to block and fuel starvation then causes the engine to stop. With the engine stopped, the muck around the pre filter falls off and you restart the engine. The cycle begins again.

ok that could make sense, the car is low on fuel so i have just topped it up, how do i go about cleaning a pre-filter, or is that just a term...

the internal filter item 10

[Edited on 3/9/09 by Mr Whippy]
Rescued attachment W38DGAS.gif

I took the choke off mine. I just used to pump it 6 or 8 times then rev it a bit to warm it up after it started. Drop something over the top of the carb and start it on half throttle it might be a blocked jet.

firstly thanks for all your help, im off to go and get a new fuel filter,

bad news is i dont have the pre filter, took the bolt of and there is nothing in there? floats are all in good condition, hopefully a new filter will sort it out, and topping it up with petrol. im going to get myself a bike carb set up. i love the car and its great but the time it takes to get going is stopping me from taking it out, either for a drive or somewhere where i may have to leave it for a while.

[Edited on 3/9/09 by 55ant]

My guess is that the floats in the carb float chamber have come away from the arm that works the chamber valve ( seen it many times in the pinto race engine)
Usually caused by vibration and the solder breaks away causing the bowl to overflow into the carb venturi's and flood it BIG TIME.
Smell of petrol is really strong as well and if you look into the venturis when the engine is stopped you can usually still see the fuel dripping in.

EDITED TO ADD that if you are using an electric pump then possibly you will have pumped so much fuel into the engine that it will seep down past the rings and into the sump thereby dilutting your oil as well

[Edited on 3/9/09 by omega 24 v6]

floats are all attatched, taken the carb apart and all seems fine, quite a bit of crap in the chamber though, mainly metal filings? from pump possibly? i dont know much about fuel pumps but can be to complicated????

Check the coil.

If youve been workin on it with the ignition on, you might have cooked the coil. If its overheating it will cut out like this. Same happened with my when i had the dutton running a xflow and Dgas.

Took me ages, and i checked everything above, and the last thing was the coil

It worked well after that (and replacing the dizzy - separate issue).

Choked idle jet(s) --- ie crap from the fuel tank blocks the smallest jets first.

[Edited on 3/9/09 by britishtrident]

ok, how can i check the coil pack? it runs fine for about 10 seconds? and how can i make sure the idle valves are clear in the carb?

an engine needs a spark and correctly metered fuel to run.

it appears we have not narrowed it down to which of the two is at fault.

if the engine stops a few moments after starting when stationary and can be repeated, you have a very good chance of tracing the problem.

I'd suggest strip the carbs, clean them out and reassemble. Then rig up a bottle of petrol hung above the carb andconnect with a pipe.

Start engine and see how long it runs.

for example, here was me running my Z engine, using two funnels.
Rescued attachment DSC03764.JPG

right, i have got it running! but, only by adjusting the 2 brass bolts near the top of the carb (fuel flow bolts??) however only the one nearest the engine? then when i can keep it running it will only run at about 2000rpm, then its rough and not very good at responding??? not sure if this helps narrowing it down? im still thinking its the idle fuel valves? would that make sense that i have been adjusting the acelorator jets to maintain an idle?

[Edited on 3/9/09 by 55ant]

ok it continues. right i had it apart, cleaned it all out and have retuned it (found a guide online) and now it runs ok/good, idle seems high, then after a quick, round the block test, it seemed fine but died when idling, i stopped mainly though due to a peircingly high pitch noise coming from the carb

any ideas chaps, starting to loose faith in perseverance.

It sounds like you are sucking air in somewhere you should not be. Check it is tightened down and all the gaskets are sealing.