I have changed my set on the water rail due to the dreaded over heating problems/airlocks/or what ever the problem is with this thing... any way

I have recently changed the set-up to run a expansion tank instead of the over flow tank...

However... I was running a stant cap on the top of the waterrail housing.. and need to fit a valveless cap so that the flow of water runs to the expansion tank by the skuttle...

I have found on on CBS website however they are £7+ then £6 postage... surely I can source one form somewhere else cheaper???

Halfords have been no use this weekend, as I need a car reg.. etc...

Anyone running this setup and can give me some help please

Many thanks

Rob

Interesting post. I would have thought you could get the cap anywhere (Burtons, Ebay etc). If I understand you correctly I've just done exactly the opposite - i.e. got from an expansion to an overflow system - both using the Raceline rail. When I had the expansion tank it was T'd off a hose rather than coming off the TS housing overflow howver.

What were your problems initially? I changed mine for the looks and to cut down on silicon hoses!!

Firstline part number FRC71 - fitted to the radiators on allegros princesses etc

massive overheating on track... peaking to 120deg... long winded thread over on WSCC

Anyway.. engine would just empty itself then over heat.. cannot tell you how many time me and my misses bled the system... seemed it would just find a level on the road then just airlock itself on track... ???

Anyway... fitted the expansion so that the over flow pipe is constantly venting the the exp bottle...

Or can I just use the stant cap to vent when is needed...

Been advised to go the a cap that has just a rubber seal on the housing... only place I can find em are on CBS...

Thoughts please...

were you running this kind of cap with your set up or just with a pressure cap???

thanks bud... off to do a search now

This will do you, its what I'm running, just a plain cap no pressure relief etc.
Rescued attachment engine bay 2 s.jpg

Super job... many thanks

I had overheating problems with the Raceline water rail myself and found (the hard way) it to be the thermostat being too far away from the engine/bypass hose. Basically too far away from the bypass and head to get hot enough to open.

Thats not the only problem I had but junking it in favour of the million dollar developed Ford thermostat has my temp rock solid at 92 degrees. What ever the weather/conditions.

There are other problems with plumbing the expansion tank into the bypass (found out the hard way). They need to be plumbed into the lower hose separately.

at the mo I have the expansion plumbed into the bottom pipe that comes off the water pump as advised again...

Yes thats where mine is plumbed into via the heater return, also I've put a couple of extra bypass holes in the stat rim to allow some flow during warm up.

No way have I room for the ford set up, 50mm from head to bulkhead.

[Edited on 31/8/09 by r1_pete]

I am way too close too...



it's this or one of the alternatives... Retrofords seems to get good reviews mind

My raceline setup works fine, I drilled an extra hole in the stat to allow faster warm up, the overflow is connected to an overflow tank in the nosecone (old nissan micra one) and I have a stant radiator cap like the one below fitted to the water rail.

http://oljeep.com/rad/FSJRadiatorsandCooling_files/image009.jpg

I have to top the system up occasionally but, other than that I don't have to do anything with it.

thats the same thing I was running... no good on track though... for the road it has been fine...

Fit Landrover/Rover PRRT remote thermostat has its own built in by-pass which closes as the thermostat opens.#

An additional feature is when a cold/partially warm engine is revveed to high rpm the thermostat partly opens on under flow pressure. Landrover TD5/Freelander part number is PEM100990 or PEL100990 and it can be found very cheaply on ebay.

where does that plumb in though

The raceline thermostat would be replaced with a Tee the PRRT thermostat goes into the bottom hose with a large bore hose linking the thermostat to the TEE

any pics of this is action?

Hi

Just one other thing to check. Where the rail wraps around the tight corner coming of the head and down the side of the head. Check that the internal casting has a large enough port. Some have only had tiny ports which restricted the flow.

Cheers Matt

quote:

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Originally posted by RobC
any pics of this is action?

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Ok so this is where we are at: Old overflow bottle's still in there until this is a proven thing...









with a neat little carbon bracket made out of odds and ends



Still waiting for the cap to arrive so will update when that does and the weather changes

ok so... seems to be working right... however...

quick run out produced 65deg and decreasing... stopped and taped up half the nose cone...

raised temps to 75+ temps which is better but how can I raise these without doing this???

stat has two 4mm holes in it.. I have two new stats neither have holes

what if I ran without a hole... is this just going to warm up too quick..?

I know one hole works but temps again were a little low.... a smaller hole may sufice... but... clutching at straws