i know its hard to ansewer this with out knowing the spec,but how much is it to get an pinto rebuilt?????
400
500
1000
It's a how long is a peice of string question?
My crossflow was £500 in parts and machining only and I would expect a Pinto to be similar.
It is usually more cost effective to buy a recon or better still a known 2nd hand unit.
Nick
i know its hard to answer,
did you hear what happened to my pinto???
I just paid £420 for crank regrind, rebore, new shells and pistons. Then another £250.00 for all ancillary bits like oil pump, water pump, gaskets
etc
A CNC machined gas flow head cost £650.00.
All in all a lot of money, but now have an engine that is very fast
I have read what happened.
I would hope, as someone else has said, that there may not be too much damage as you did not actually drive it and load everything heavily.
I would use it and see if every thing seems ok. Looking for smoke when accelerating and listening for strange noises from crank and cam.
Pinto's a tough old lump good job you've not got a flimsy bike engine in there.
Nick
quote:
Originally posted by jpindy3
i know its hard to answer,
did you hear what happened to my pinto???
You have to give this a great deal of thought, you spend a lot of money on pintos rebuilding them and they can give you good numbers in power.
But
With new in a crate black top zetec engines selling for £700 it becomes more tempting to make a complete engine change,also these engines bolt
straight onto your excisting type 9 gearbox once a rear wheel drive spiggot bearing (£8)has been fitted to the crankshaft.
I know the zetec would mean new exhaust header possible sump mods but it still wont be far off rebuilding the old 8 valve pinto.
zetec linky
[Edited on 21/6/09 by bob]
quote:
Originally posted by bob
You have to give this a great deal of thought, you spend a lot of money on pintos rebuilding them and they can give you good numbers in power.
But
With new in a crate black top zetec engines selling for £700 it becomes more tempting to make a complete engine change,also these engines bolt straight onto your excisting type 9 gearbox once a rear wheel drive spiggot bearing (£8)has been fitted to the crankshaft.
I know the zetec would mean new exhaust header possible sump mods but it still wont be far off rebuilding the old 8 valve pinto.
zetec linky
[Edited on 21/6/09 by bob]
i bought a "new" 2,1 pinto from vulcan engineering for £3600 Ouch!!! (I did not know about this site before i started so choices were
made with out informed knowledge)
BUT VERY FAST low 4sec to 60, and on private roads 0 to 90 in under 7 secs
How fast do you want to go?
Ditch
I paid £600 20 years ago for a 2.1 block and ported heads, so budget on £1k if you do it properly.
Dump the pinto, go Zetec, more power, more economy and more revs.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 21/6/09 by mark chandler]
You might have gotten away with what happened. On the other hand you might not.
The worst that will have happened is that you will have scuffed the bearings and cam, you shouldnt need any regrinding.
All in all you would be looking at about £150-200 for the bearings (you need special tools to change the cam bearings) and £150 for a new cam and
followers.
Moral of the story, research what you are planning to do before you do it!
the cam looks ok,
Description
Description
but i guess you carnt tell if its shot by looking at it
[Edited on 21/6/09 by jpindy3]
that cam looks worn lol. Anything with ANY marks on I would deem to be scrap tbh.
Esp on pintos, it seems the norm to replace the cam at very low intervals.
Shaun
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I paid £600 20 years ago for a 2.1 block and ported heads, so budget on £1k if you do it properly.
Dump the pinto, go Zetec, more power, more economy and more revs.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 21/6/09 by mark chandler]
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
that cam looks worn lol. Anything with ANY marks on I would deem to be scrap tbh.
Esp on pintos, it seems the norm to replace the cam at very low intervals.
Shaun
Have a look at this site, they are local to me , but carraige isn't too much, full 2.1 short motor for £540. They build a pretty decent engine, a
lot of the stock car guys use their bottom ends with heads built to the racers own spec. They use mahle pistons, vanderval bearings and arp rod bolts
with everything balanced. Seems like a goodand quick solution to me. They always have one built on the shelf ready for dispatch too.
http://www.jemengines.co.uk/8.html
[Edited on 21/6/09 by delboy]
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
that cam looks worn lol.
That cam looks perfect, 2 minutes on tickover is not going to do your engine any harm if it ran before with the oil pump connected. The oil
doesn't drain out of them and if it was rebuilt there would be the build up lube in them anyway. Stop procrastinating it isn't a big job to
look at the cam and a big end shell to see if it's scored.
The marks on that cam are just ridges in the oil film where the follower wipes, my old one had a 2mm gouge in no.4 piston lobes and still ran quite
happily (I did fit a new one though)
Despite what certain oil manufacturers used to claim, I'm fairly sure very few engine parts ever run metal-to-metal without a film of oil between
them - even when cold. Anyone who's tried to separate big-end shells or strip hydraulic lifters can testify how much fun that is...
Surely the cylinder walls would be the most vulnerable, but would require the smallest amount of oil in the first place? I'd have thought that
dry / hydraulic'ed lifters would be the biggest source of noise but have the least impact...
But I can't claim to be an expert and would be interested to know what everyone thinks, too.
Francis
I wouldn't worry about it, what's done is done. Use it for a few hundred miles and then check the came lobes for any further wear. Big ends and mains will probably be ok if you weren't revving the engine hard when there was no oil pressure.
[quoteI would look at the slight mark on the lobe though.
Pintos are sturdy old lumps and seem to be able to take no end of abuse.
That Cam Lobe looks pretty good to me. The Mains might have faired less well but if it's running well now with a healthy oil pressure, I'd
just run it for the summer (maybe not give it so much stick) and pop the sump off in the winter and check a couple of the shells then.
I've never had a Pinto cam without the marks... IMHO it is the difference between where the finger contacts the cam and where it doesn't.
ok ran it on the megajolt,a very good bit of kit,
but the oil presure droped after being at temp for a little bit,it has droped by 12psi,
it normaly is 6bar but now its 5bar,it has a high presue pump,
what do you think??
i think i have done a bearing
this is a f**king new engine im so mad
I don't think you have done major damage. The cam looks fine to me.
If you are worried about the mains and Big ends then you will have to pull the engine out, drop the sump off and check the bearings. If you do it soon
then you can pop a new set of shells in and it should be as good as new. If you leave it with worn shells for a period of time you risk damaging the
crank.
Even if you just leave it and you do end up damaging the crank then you are still only looking at a couple of hundred to put it right.
I would leave it and watch the oil pressure - it should be about 60 psi max and 20 psi or so on tickover. It will be higher on tickover when new so if
it has just dropped to 20 or so now then you have accelerated the running in process a little.
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
I don't think you have done major damage. The cam looks fine to me.
If you are worried about the mains and Big ends then you will have to pull the engine out, drop the sump off and check the bearings. If you do it soon then you can pop a new set of shells in and it should be as good as new. If you leave it with worn shells for a period of time you risk damaging the crank.
Even if you just leave it and you do end up damaging the crank then you are still only looking at a couple of hundred to put it right.
I would leave it and watch the oil pressure - it should be about 60 psi max and 20 psi or so on tickover. It will be higher on tickover when new so if it has just dropped to 20 or so now then you have accelerated the running in process a little.
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
[quoteI would look at the slight mark on the lobe though.
Jem engines will do you a 2.1 pinto and big valve head for around the £1500 pound mark
cheers Ray
quote:
Originally posted by Ray
Jem engines will do you a 2.1 pinto and big valve head for around the £1500 pound mark
cheers Ray
quote:
Originally posted by jpindy3
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
I don't think you have done major damage. The cam looks fine to me.
If you are worried about the mains and Big ends then you will have to pull the engine out, drop the sump off and check the bearings. If you do it soon then you can pop a new set of shells in and it should be as good as new. If you leave it with worn shells for a period of time you risk damaging the crank.
Even if you just leave it and you do end up damaging the crank then you are still only looking at a couple of hundred to put it right.
I would leave it and watch the oil pressure - it should be about 60 psi max and 20 psi or so on tickover. It will be higher on tickover when new so if it has just dropped to 20 or so now then you have accelerated the running in process a little.
ahh ok
it has a high presure oil pump,so my pressure is a bit higher than that,
when wormed and driving it is at 6bar 80 odd psi and at idle it drops to 4.5-5bar,
before this happend with the oil cock up,
it ran 6bar driving and just under 6 at idle,
it is a new engine,coverd 200miles
that cam looks good for 50,000 miles or more.
ok thank lads,
right what im doing is rebuilding my 202 block now with eather cossie of forged pistons ready for my turbo,
so a
when i have done this at lest i have a bottom end to fall back on if the other blows