rayward
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 02:33 PM |
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FWD hubs on the back????
does anyone see a problem with you using FWD hubs on the rear (in a FWD to RWD conversion, and just fixing the hubs (to stop them steering) with a
link bar??.
Ray
[Edited on 21/3/07 by rayward]
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 02:41 PM |
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I'm sure this has been use before on other kit cars.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 02:55 PM |
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Could you not arrange it so that when the car rolls on a corner the bump steer would also steer, like those cars with 4x4 steering?
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Howlor
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 02:58 PM |
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Just make sure Ray you get the lump the right way round otherwise you'll end up with 5 back and only 1 forward gear!
Steve
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3GEComponents
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 03:30 PM |
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Like this?
 
Rescued attachment 0093.jpeg
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coozer
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 03:46 PM |
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The rear engined kits out of Sylva use front dirive hubs on the back.
The steering arm gives you some opportunity for adjustment
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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3GEComponents
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 04:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
The rear engined kits out of Sylva use front dirive hubs on the back.
The steering arm gives you some opportunity for adjustment
And by mounting the chassis end off centre, either higher or lower, would also steer the back wheel as the car rolls!
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ch1ll1
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 05:04 PM |
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how did you get a picture of my car?
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andyps
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 05:05 PM |
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The MG F/TF used Metro front hubs all round.
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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zetec7
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 06:17 PM |
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If it helps to ease your mind, the Pontiac Fiero was built exactly this way (FWD package, complete, transposed to the rear), and it works very
well!!
http://www.freewebs.com/zetec7/
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bob
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 07:23 PM |
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Sylva mojo link
http://www.sylva.co.uk/mojobrochure.htm
The info here is good, also the linked pics
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lsdweb
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 09:37 PM |
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A cable operated handbrake might be your only problem although easily fixed. Ditto to the adjustable comments.
Wyn
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 10:05 PM |
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I`ve used hubs at rear, vauxhall vectra (quite good design).
Re tie rods:
Short will result in the wheels toeing in in up/down movement.
Very long will toe out, but to a much lesser extent.
For little to none toe the joints need to be inline with the suspenstion mouting points, and need to ideally be parrallel to the lower arm.
On mine I have very little toe, hardly noticable over +- 3 inches travel.
Darren
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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iank
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 10:26 PM |
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As the previous post, you remove bump steer from the back the same way as you would from the front. Think of the locking arms as the arms from a
steering locked in the straight ahead position.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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