nick205
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 01:22 PM |
|
|
DIY bricklaying?
Afternoon all,
Have a retaining wall type arrangement of old railway sleepers in my garden. They're laid 3 deep with a sunken paved path one side level with
and retained soil + lawn the other. The sleepers have done well for probably 15 years, but started to rot away in places.
Rather than replace with more sleepers I'm tempted to have a go at removing them and building a brick wall instead. Several courses of bricks,
topped with either a soldier course of bricks or maybe capping stones.
Not attempted brick laying before, but happy to give it a go.
Any advice welcome as are links to useful websites.
Thanks,
Nick
This is the kind of result I'm after
 
brick-retaining-wall
|
|
|
|
|
MikeR
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 02:47 PM |
|
|
Interested to follow the replies as I may end up doing something similar. Not sure if you picked the picture deliberately, but the curve is a specific
style of wall that gets its strength from the curve so only needs a single course with no piers. It's harder to build but cheaper on materials
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 03:26 PM |
|
|
Hi Mike,
No I didn't pick the picture deliberately. In fact my wall will be straigh, with a set of steps set in at one end. The steps will involve
lifting the existing paving off the sleepers to remove the sleepers. I'll probably have to rebuild the steps underneath with blocks and face
with a skin of brick. The relay the paving on top to reform the steps. No big deal, just a bit more time and effort really.
Given my wall will be straight and retaining I may have to allow for a run of blocks to form the structure and face with brick for appearance I
suppose. I don't fancy piers and there isn't really space either.
Something learnt already!
|
|
|
tegwin
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 06:51 PM |
|
|
My biggest tip would be to buy/hire a cement mixer and perfect the mix….
Mixing by hand is backbreaking and hard to be consistent.
I watched a load of YouTube videos and took it slow. Really rewarding if you take your time
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 07:20 PM |
|
|
did it once, it,s not easy to get a nice looking job, i would 100% get a pro to do it
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
cliftyhanger
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 07:59 PM |
|
|
A good friend has used some interlocking blocks to do just that. You just dry lay them, and they grip but can also move a bit. Very simple and
probably better than using conventional brick/mortar.
Example:
https://ag.uk.com/outside-rooms/services/resources/how-to-guides/how-to-build-walling/
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 08:10 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by theconrodkid
did it once, it,s not easy to get a nice looking job, i would 100% get a pro to do it
Same here, I had a dwarf wall built in my back garden by a pro and there is a huge amount of work before you even start the first course of bricks
then putting a couple of steps in resulted in a below earth structure the the bricky said would withstand a nuclear strike, then there was drainage
etc.
I recently repaired the steps and re-did some loose bricks and capping stones.
Whatever you do practice first
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
Simon
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 08:30 PM |
|
|
I replaced a garden retaining wall (and added three piers and some steps) about 17 years ago - it's fairly neat but took a lot longer than a pro.
At the end of the day, it's just measuring, spacing bricks evenly and using a spirit level.
If you've built a car for £250, a wall should be easy 
|
|
|
Benzine
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 10:13 PM |
|
|
I'm building a wall at the moment. A few tips off the top of my head...
If you use a mixer make sure you have a hose pipe. Absolute pain to clean out without. Always clean your mixer out well. Keep your trowel clean. Take
your time to measure out. When it comes to pointing I'd often do it too soon, be patient.
In terms of websites, a bit of an odd place you might not think of is TikTok. If you have the app just search for 'bricktok' and scroll
through the videos. Lots of brickies showing projects they're working on from small to big sites. I've picked up the most handy tips from
there!
|
|
|
Dingz
|
| posted on 24/8/22 at 10:56 PM |
|
|
Many years ago when I wanted to build a garage I did a bricklaying course at the local tech with several others with their Own projects. It was fun
and very useful, subsequently I’ve built single, double garages, walls etc. if you can get on a course with a real instructor you’ll learn so much.
Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.
|
|
|
Sanzomat
|
| posted on 25/8/22 at 08:10 AM |
|
|
Yep, if you can get somebody who knows to show you then it'll help much more than youtube videos.
I taught myself years ago (after a few tips from a brickie) and although I only pick up my trowel every five years or so it still comes back.
My advice:
1) The number one most important thing is to get the mix right - use plasticiser (or lime) as the mix will be horrible to use without it. Make sure it
is nice and "fatty" and flows well but not too wet. Practice picking up and laying/spreading the mortar on a board until you are comfortable
holding the trowel and getting the mortar to go where you want it. Use a sand that isn't too sharp but also not "muddy". Some sand sold
as building sand is too fine and rounded, others are too sharp and angular. If you can't get a sand that is somewhere between, mix the two
extremes together.
2) put just the right amount of mortar on the previous course so that when you lay the brick just a little squeezes out but not enough to fall off/run
down the face. If the mix is right and the quantity right you should be able to push the brick down to the right level with your hand without tapping
but the joint needs to be full too (especially in a retaining wall). Aim for all joint to be 10mm.
3) strike off the mortar squeezed out with the trowel at around 45 degrees so you don't smear the face.
4) butter up the perps (ends) away from the wall, over the spot (board where you keep the mortar) and again, just enough so when you push it into the
previous brick only a few mm squeezes out.
5) for a gravity retaining wall (no reinforcement) it should be no higher than four times its width so for a 100mm wide brick leaf max height is
400mm. If you go with additional thickness make sure they are tied together.
6) in a retaining wall you need to leave drainage holes (open perps at the bottom every fourth brick are fine for a low wall) to let any water behind
drain out. Also, back fill the gap at the back with gravel with no fines so it'll allow water to drain.
7) Take a lot of care building the ends up stepped back, using a spirit level/plumb stick in every direction and when that has gone off a bit you can
then stretch a string line between the two end and lay the rest to that.
8) be patient before pointing up the joints. Use a suitable tool to smooth the joints around 3hrs after laying so the mortar is dry enough to fall off
without streaking the face but still workable.
[Edited on 25/8/22 by Sanzomat]
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 25/8/22 at 08:58 AM |
|
|
People
Thanks for all the feedback and advice.
1. Have access to a mixer, don't intend to mix by hand.
2. Have a hose for cleaning mixer. Worked as a building labourer some years back and got told repeatedly about cleaning the mixer properly.
3. Have a bricklayer friend for advice.
4. Considering the interlocking blocks without mortar (could be quicker and easier).
5. Also considering the option of getting my bricklayer friend to take on the job for me and I'll labour.
Scale of current sleepers wall = 3 sleepers tall (375mm) x 1 sleeper deep (250mm)
Options to consider and today it's peeing it down with rain after weeks of blistering sun!
[Edited on 25/8/22 by nick205]
|
|
|
SJ
|
| posted on 25/8/22 at 09:34 AM |
|
|
I've done some small bricklaying jobs - Looks OK but my aim was 'rustic'!
On the cement mixer I bought a new one and sold it afterwards for pretty much what I paid. Far cheaper than hiring one and no rushing to get the job
done to save on hire fees.
Always thought these looked like a good idea for the amateur.
Bricky tool
They were available in the UK whgen I last checked
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 25/8/22 at 10:32 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by SJ
I've done some small bricklaying jobs - Looks OK but my aim was 'rustic'!
On the cement mixer I bought a new one and sold it afterwards for pretty much what I paid. Far cheaper than hiring one and no rushing to get the job
done to save on hire fees.
Always thought these looked like a good idea for the amateur.
Bricky tool
They were available in the UK whgen I last checked
My Dad has a mixer so no hire charge or rush on it. Just making sure it goes back clean and ready for the next user.
Seen those Bricky Tools on YouTube before and they do look handy.
|
|
|
SteveWalker
|
| posted on 25/8/22 at 03:55 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by SJ
I've done some small bricklaying jobs - Looks OK but my aim was 'rustic'!
On the cement mixer I bought a new one and sold it afterwards for pretty much what I paid. Far cheaper than hiring one and no rushing to get the job
done to save on hire fees.
Always thought these looked like a good idea for the amateur.
Bricky tool
They were available in the UK whgen I last checked
I bought one when I was building my conservatory (about 900 bricks and 125 blocks - the ratios don't work right, because underground , the inner
leaf was brick and not block). It definitely worked, although a bit of practice soon let me do it without.
|
|
|
roadrunner
|
| posted on 26/8/22 at 05:04 AM |
|
|
Instead of plasticiser, you can use a squirt of washing up liquid, it works wonders when managing the motar.
Reclaimed bricks would be a good choice. Apart from looking good with new motar they hide any manner of sinns from a newbie brick layer.
I've worked with bricklayers as I'm a carpenter by trade. I've always struggled to lay bricks. It is more difficult than you think to
achieve a neat finish.
Just take your time
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 26/8/22 at 08:37 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
Instead of plasticiser, you can use a squirt of washing up liquid, it works wonders when managing the motar.
Reclaimed bricks would be a good choice. Apart from looking good with new motar they hide any manner of sinns from a newbie brick layer.
I've worked with bricklayers as I'm a carpenter by trade. I've always struggled to lay bricks. It is more difficult than you think to
achieve a neat finish.
Just take your time
Ditto on the washing up liquid instead of plasticiser. Used to do the same mixing mortar for my Dad, his neighbour and others as a nipper. They just
had washing up liquid to hand, it worked and they didn't want to spend out more buying plasticiser (they may not use all of).
Ditto on reclaimed bricks too - probably cheaper to source if you're happy to hunt around and collect. The rustic finish will certainly help
hide "learner" bricklaying element as well We don't have a showhome garden so this doesn't need to be a perfect finish job,
just not falling down.
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 26/8/22 at 10:47 AM |
|
|
I've done a couple of small walls and thanks to my Dad previously showing me how, it seemed very simple and the hand mixing wasn't a
problem. Both walls have lasted a decade without showing signs of deterioration so far.
|
|
|
Sanzomat
|
| posted on 26/8/22 at 02:27 PM |
|
|
Re the washing up liquid thing, up to you but I wouldn't. I worked in construction for nearly 40 years. Started out on the tools and ended up as
technical director for a region of a national contractor. I used to think it was the same but a while ago (probably over 30 yrs!) a structural
engineer visiting one of my sites saw washing up liquid being used in a mortar mix and then insisted on all the walls being taken down again as the
specification didn't allow for it. The bricklaying contractor went ape and refused saying he'd always used it and never had a problem.
Sample cubes of mortar to spec and mortar using washing up liquid were made and after curing sent away for crush testing. The ones with washing up
liquid were 20% weaker. The walls were all taken down and we never used that bricklayer again. Other issues include worse frost resistance and more
effloressence (the white bloom you sometimes see on finished brickwork). Most big project these days use either ready mix mortar or silo mixers so
very little gets mixed on site but since then we've never allowed washing up liquid. I get that if you are just doing a small project it
doesn't seem worth buying a 5l bottle of the proper plasticiser but given the relative cost compared to the bricks, sand, cement and time
involved it seems crazy to me to take the risk.
Edit - just checked - 5l of proper plasticiser is only £3.99 - probably cheaper than fairy liquid?
[Edited on 26/8/22 by Sanzomat]
[Edited on 26/8/22 by Sanzomat]
|
|
|
pigeondave
|
| posted on 26/8/22 at 11:27 PM |
|
|
Also look out for the BRE guides on brickwork walls
The BRE good building guide 27 is helpful if you are building retaining walls. You could probably find a copy of the pdf on the net for free.
Gives you an idea of what you're looking for
https://www.labc.co.uk/news/how-building-regulations-may-affect-garden-walls
There's little point in speaking to a structural engineer unless you have a good old one. The new (probably 20 years old now) eurocodes
don't allow any tension in masonry and so they will insist on massive gravity walls or bed joint reinforcement.
If the above link is good enough for LABC, is fine. It's a garden wall at the end of the day. get the first course in level and you're away.
Don't get it level and it'll fight you forever.
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 28/8/22 at 10:31 PM |
|
|
Buy a mixer, and be consistent with your motor measurements, randomly pick up bricks, get a huge trowel.
Straight wall, notch bits of wood to set the height of the rows then you can just lift the string up a notch
The motar will need to be surprisingly wet!
Just use a bit of old hose pipe to point up
It’s not that hard, it is tiring it is however very satisfying
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 30/8/22 at 10:16 AM |
|
|
I'd agree to buying the right plasticiser and doing it right given the price difference.
I have seen structural walls built with fairy last for 40 years, have no bloom problems and no other problems. But why take the risk when it's so
cheap.
|
|
|
