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Author: Subject: Better Than Hammerite!
Terrapin_racing

posted on 22/9/04 at 09:08 AM Reply With Quote
Better Than Hammerite!

Just to let you know - I have been involved in building cars for many years (even used the first batch of hammerite from finnigan's factory in Ryton as they were round the corner from my gran's in gordie land on my 1st kit I bought from a guy call Tim Dutton in Brighton - yes a Phaeton which I drove for many years as a daily user before it turned into double glazing (when married) I digress .... anyway, I always say that experience and the test of time are the best way to judge things.

I still have a JC Midge (factory open day show winner) that I built some 17 years ago. I degreased & painted the chassis and suspension with a primer called brown velvet (hammerite product) and then top coated with a two pack marine paint called Perfection 709 from international paints - what a paint! amazing stuff and it still looks like I painted it yesterday (all done by brush).

It's still available but expensive at around £25 for a 750ml pack (which should easily do a chassis).

I've attached a picture of the Midge (background)

[Edited on 22/9/04 by Terrapin_racing] Rescued attachment DSCF0024.JPG
Rescued attachment DSCF0024.JPG

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marktigere1

posted on 22/9/04 at 12:00 PM Reply With Quote
I have used Perfection 709 and it is indeed an amazing paint. The smooth finish from brushing has to be seen to be believed.

I hope to paint my chassis when complete in it.

Cheers

Mark





If a bolt is stuck force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!!
(My Dad 1991)

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Hellfire

posted on 22/9/04 at 01:59 PM Reply With Quote
With a brush - really?

Amazing!






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marktigere1

posted on 22/9/04 at 02:37 PM Reply With Quote
You do need to brush it on thin.

The paint does some magic trick and smoothes itself. I think its to do with the Polyeurathane base or something.

Great paint but expensive!!

Cheers

Mark

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phelpsa

posted on 22/9/04 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
Might try this instead of Hammerite.

Adam






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Peteff

posted on 22/9/04 at 04:02 PM Reply With Quote
Years ago I bought an old transit pickup that had belonged to the council. I did that with Stokes' enamel. When I started, the paint was too thick and was pulling the brush hairs out so I poured 1/2" of turps in the top and gave it a good stir. I slapped it on and left it in the shed to dry overnight and when I went to see how it had come out next day I was surprised to see all the brush marks had levelled out. Nobody believed it had been brush painted.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Terrapin_racing

posted on 23/9/04 at 08:02 AM Reply With Quote
Trick with Perfection 709 (international paints) is to only mix (it's polyurethane two pack yatch paint) only what you need and brush thinly as mentioned - fantastic stuff - what's left in the jar sets like plastic overnight so make sure you clean your brushes or bin them (cheaper than buying the special solvent!)

Note on the photo that I also did the Midge suspension springs with red 709 paint and it's still as good as new (17 years later!)
All the chassis & suspension were done with black 709. Enough said. Rescued attachment TerrapinJune03_7.jpg
Rescued attachment TerrapinJune03_7.jpg

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marktigere1

posted on 23/9/04 at 08:34 AM Reply With Quote
Yes I've binned many a brush using 709.

Worth it for the finish though

Cheers

Mark





If a bolt is stuck force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!!
(My Dad 1991)

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stephen_gusterson

posted on 23/9/04 at 09:43 AM Reply With Quote
this sounds interesting.

Do you think that I could use this to paint the grp wings / running boards of my 'morgan replica' in this stuff (black) using the thinned brush technique, and get a good result?

the 'paints right on to gel coat' and brushing aspect make it sound really attractive............


atb

steve






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marktigere1

posted on 23/9/04 at 10:23 AM Reply With Quote
709 has been used on GRP boats so it should be fine.

When brushing it on, I was instructed by a boat builder to brush in one direction thinly and then brush at 90 degrees to the original stroke. This had the effect of flattening the surface before the magic happened.

Used this method and as said, the finish is almost to good to be true as can be seen in Terrapin's photos. I'll see if I can find any pictures of my efforts and put them in the old archive.

Once dry, this stuff is as tough as old boots.

Cheers

Mark





If a bolt is stuck force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!!
(My Dad 1991)

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marktigere1

posted on 23/9/04 at 10:44 AM Reply With Quote
BTW Steve

International also do a great two pack varnish for your chassis

Cheers

This may be of interest

http://marinestore.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PLYNS936&Category_Code=paintint

[Edited on 23/9/04 by marktigere1]





If a bolt is stuck force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!!
(My Dad 1991)

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Terrapin_racing

posted on 23/9/04 at 10:57 AM Reply With Quote
Good tips - I would ask your local marine chandler also - I have a feeling there is a special primer for use with 709 on fibreglass.

just found this when doing a brief search on google.

http://marinestore.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=paintint

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Terrapin_racing

posted on 23/9/04 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
Oh, yes - just one fine point - I washed my garage floor down and had a good clean up before I started brush painting - you don't want dust and insects settling on your paint whilst it's drying!
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stephen_gusterson

posted on 23/9/04 at 11:09 AM Reply With Quote
marktiger1

bear in mind mines a steel chassis, not wood.




a common misconception is that morgans are wood. they are not. they have a steel ladder chassis, and other superstrcture parts, like the inner rear arches ARE plywood or similar.

My car only has a burr walnut veneer dash, and mdf panels covered in vynyl for the interior. All else is alu or steel!

atb

steve

[Edited on 23/9/04 by stephen_gusterson]






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marktigere1

posted on 23/9/04 at 11:41 AM Reply With Quote
Sorry Steve.

Only joking





If a bolt is stuck force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!!
(My Dad 1991)

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stephen_gusterson

posted on 23/9/04 at 11:57 AM Reply With Quote
I know




atb

steve






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Browser

posted on 23/9/04 at 12:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Terrapin_racing
even used the first batch of hammerite from finnigan's factory in Ryton as they were round the corner from my gran's in gordie land


If that's Ryton, COunty Durham you are on about, I was born there. 10 Holburn Way to be precise, 33 years ago






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timf

posted on 23/9/04 at 12:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
marktiger1
they have a steel ladder chassis, and other superstrcture parts, like the inner rear arches ARE plywood or similar.
stephen_gusterson]


laminated ash actually old bean

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stephen_gusterson

posted on 23/9/04 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
thats told me then

atb

steve






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Terrapin_racing

posted on 23/9/04 at 02:51 PM Reply With Quote
Browser - yes that's the same Ryton, born there 43 years ago - can't remember the road name - but up the hill on the right past the church in the centre.

http://www.bobjude.co.uk/bobjude/geordie/brown.au

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Dick Axtell

posted on 23/9/04 at 06:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Terrapin_racing
...with a primer called brown velvet (hammerite product) and then top coated with a two pack marine paint called Perfection 709...

So it's perfectly compatible with Hammerite? Did you flat down the Hammerite before applying the Perfection paint? If so, with what grade w&d?

Bl***y nice looking machinery, BTW. What's the "mid-engined" device?

And here's an afterthought - how many miles has the Midge covered? When was it last used? Your pic seems to suggest its nearly brand new!!


[Edited on 23/9/04 by Dick Axtell]





Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!

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Terrapin_racing

posted on 24/9/04 at 09:08 AM Reply With Quote
Chassis was primered with finnigans brown velvet primer and then topcoated with 709 - no sanding between (just left the primer to fully dry for a few days)
Midge only gets summer use so only a few thousand miles on clock.

Single seater is a Terrapin (I republished the book/build manual last year and plans are available also) I'll post a picture of Stu Borlands car (New Zealand contact) Rescued attachment terrapin_dunedin_01.jpg
Rescued attachment terrapin_dunedin_01.jpg

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Terrapin_racing

posted on 24/9/04 at 09:11 AM Reply With Quote
Here's one of the early Terrapin's racing in the Caribbean (Bizzy Williams - now a multi millionaire entrepreneur) out there! Rescued attachment WilliamsTerrapin.JPG
Rescued attachment WilliamsTerrapin.JPG

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Terrapin_racing

posted on 24/9/04 at 09:13 AM Reply With Quote
The book - available from Totalkitcar.com Rescued attachment highspeed.jpg
Rescued attachment highspeed.jpg

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Terrapin_racing

posted on 24/9/04 at 09:14 AM Reply With Quote
Plans are large scale Rescued attachment plans1.JPG
Rescued attachment plans1.JPG

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