ReMan
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 04:12 PM |
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Trailer axel help Pt 2
Folling this thread
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=135873
I have cut my Escort axle in two to narrow it and now need to join it back up again.
Any clues for some 52mm o/d or 61mm i/d to bolt through and weld
I'm of he opinion that as it's going on leaf springs the bulk of the laod is supported at the outer ends anyway so probably doesnt need to
be very heavy duty tube?
Or any other bright ideas.
 
AXELCUT
 
AXELHOLE
[Edited on 10/7/10 by ReMan]
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 04:22 PM |
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angle iron.
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ReMan
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 04:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
angle iron.
Good call Jon
And B+Q do it
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 05:16 PM |
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I just bought a new length of tube the right width and wall thickness and welded it on to the end plates.
That was much neater and less of a bodge
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907
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 05:17 PM |
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Grind a bevel on each end.
Clamp in a piece of angle to align, with a gap.
Weld a bit each side, move the angle round and complete the weld.
Use TIG, MIG, or whatever you feel comfortable with.
hth
Cheers
Paul G
 
but weld jig
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ReMan
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 05:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
Grind a bevel on each end.
Clamp in a piece of angle to align, with a gap.
Weld a bit each side, move the angle round and complete the weld.
Use TIG, MIG, or whatever
I only have a 90A clarke MiG and I guess I'm a bit dubious whether it is up to 3.4mm (the axel wall thickness)?
hence considering I need to brace/sleve it too?
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ReMan
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 08:04 PM |
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This may be the hybrid solution?
 
axeltie
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Grimsdale
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 09:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
I only have a 90A clarke MiG and I guess I'm a bit dubious whether it is up to 3.4mm (the axel wall thickness)?
hence considering I need to brace/sleve it too?
Hence putting the bevel on it, makes the thickness you're welding much smaller, plus you could put a couple of runs on it if you need to fill it
in.
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907
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| posted on 10/7/10 at 10:27 PM |
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Grind the bevel at 45 deg 2.4mm deep so you have a 1mm land or root face, 1.5mm gap,
and clean off the rust either side of the weld.
Grimsdale is right.
Adding a pipe inside means more metal to heat up and melt, and makes the low power issue worse.
If you don't have clamps then jubilee clips would be better than cable ties.
Cheers
Paul G
[Edited on 10/7/10 by 907]
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ReMan
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| posted on 11/7/10 at 08:12 AM |
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Thankks guys, its welded now.
You'll be glad its not your wishbones though 
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MikeR
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| posted on 11/7/10 at 05:27 PM |
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bit late now but one trick is to weld like a christmas tree.
You start in the middle of the weld, then move to the right and up a little, then across to the left - you've now done a triangle.
Now move back to the starting point but .... a fraction further around the weld and start again.
You get plenty of heat into the weld and spread the weld around the middle and either side of the joint.
(its supposed to be used to welding upwards but i think it could be effective in this situation).
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