INDY BIRD
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| posted on 31/10/09 at 09:21 PM |
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rust removal any tips???
Hi all
got some sierra hubs today (thanks john)
but need a little tlc to get them refurbed,
has any one got any top tips to remove rust other than wire brush and elbow grease??
i something to soak in etc,
thanks for any tips
sean
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coozer
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| posted on 31/10/09 at 09:27 PM |
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Electrolysis. See the light!
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=9158
Works real well, my uprights are still rust free after 2 years (as expected)!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 31/10/09 at 09:27 PM |
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http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=9158
Beat me to it
[Edited on 31/10/09 by Ben_Copeland]
Ben
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http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
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omega0684
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| posted on 31/10/09 at 09:29 PM |
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take hubs apart and remove bearings
get a bucket of water dissolve 1kg of soda crystals in it, insert 2 'steel' poles, one either side and put metal between the poles (make
sure it doesn't touch the poles), connect up a car battery charger to make an anode and cathose and leave the charger on over night,
in the morning spend 5 minutes with a wire brush in the end of the drill to get rid of all the stubburn rust
here is what i did, i earth the pinto block itself and put a steel pole in as the +ve
Before
After
[Edited on 31/10/09 by omega0684]
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BenB
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| posted on 31/10/09 at 11:16 PM |
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Molasses.
Crazy but works.
Get 10 parts water to 1 part mollases and job's a good'un....
I only soaked these for two days....
 
Description
 
Description
 
Description
The black stuff is phosphate so it's stable and won't lead to rusting....
Job's a good'un...
No need for electrikity or other new fangled stuff, just a bit bucket full of diluted mollasses. Proper job.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 1/11/09 at 10:03 AM |
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If you use Electroloysis....
As I understand it:
DO NOT USE anything with Chromium or Nickel in the sacrificial plate (ie a bit of of Stainless steel)
This produces Hexavalent Chromium (and fumes) that are extremely NASTY.
Just stick to a bit of mild steel plate.
Also remember to connect the battery charger the right way round.
Its a good cheap and excellent way to de-rust.
Just do it correctly... thats all!
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 1/11/09 at 01:14 PM |
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Hi so am i getting this,
can i use caustic soda??? in the water??
then put in 2 metal poles (steel)
connect the + to 1 side
and the - to the other side
put the material to be trated in between them,
turn on the 12v battery charger and leave over night??
thanks for the tips guys
sean
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coozer
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| posted on 1/11/09 at 01:52 PM |
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I used caustic soda the first time, all I had lying around. Tesco/Asda have washing soda thats a bit more user friendly...
Connect the +ve to a metal plate down the side of a plastic box filled with the solution, and the rusty part off the donor to the -ve side
Turn on and leave overnight, job done.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 1/11/09 at 05:57 PM |
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sorry being dumb what does ve stand for??
so i will get some washiung soda from tescos just in case,#
then as above 1 metal pole for the + side of the charger in the solution then atatch the - side of the charger to the parts or a 2nd pole.
hope i am wright now,
sorry got man flu at the moment so not everything sinking in cheers
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coozer
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| posted on 1/11/09 at 06:33 PM |
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Thats right fella, positive to the metal pole, negative to the rusty bit. Make sure they don't touch (short out) in the bath.
I used a plastic container, about 50 litres with a plate clamped down one side. Flat plate is better than a pole as it gives more
'coverage' if you get my drift..
Also I bolted the leads onto the plate and used a mole grip with the negative bolted on to give good connections.
And, I used a lcd tv screen power supply, 17v @ 5 amps.. thats cause I burnt the battery charger out with the bath going 24 hours aday for about two
weeks
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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