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Stud walling advice please
locoboy - 15/4/12 at 06:53 PM

I am in the process of sorting out the garage with the intention of splitting it into 2/3 and 1/3 to use it as 2 seperate areas, the (2/3) area as workshop for my wood working stuff and the (1/3) area as general shed type every day storage for garden stuff, camping stuff, bikes etc.

I have a door to put in the partition wall, I have 4 glazed units to go in the wall, electrical sockets, cabling, frame fixings, rawl bolts, wood screws, door lock.

I am currently seperating the items into their respective areas and painting the floor as I go so within the next fortnight I want to be at the point of beginning to build the wall.

I am unsure of what size timber to be buying for the stud walling considering I will be having to make a carcase for the door to fit in.

I will be plaster boarding both sides of the wall too probably in 12.5mm thickness board.

Any advice on centres for the uprights and vertical spacings for the noggins appreciated too.

Many thanks
Col

gottabedone - 15/4/12 at 07:00 PM

if you use 4x2 then you can hang shelves off it quite confidently. Chuck some rockwool in there as well

Steve

gottabedone - 15/4/12 at 07:04 PM

sorry also forgot..........spacing - the sheets are 8x4 so 2 foot centres. If you have any wall cupboards to hang then put noggins in where your cupboard mounts are and one on the centreline.

Steve

JoelP - 15/4/12 at 07:14 PM

Are you buying or making a door casing? ISTR i bought one that was 117mm deep, so worked well with 87mm CLS timbers from B&Q (dirt cheap, esp with a tradepoint card), allowing 15mm each side for boards and plaster (not that i imagine you will be plastering yours...)

Measure the positions of the timbers well so that you dont need to cut boards in width. 60cms is fine, and maybe 2 noggins horizontal depending on roof height.

locoboy - 15/4/12 at 07:15 PM

OK thanks,

If I use 4x2 plus half inch plaster board on both sides that gives me a 5 inch thick wall.
For the door casing should I just get some 5x1 inch plained timber ?

Slimy38 - 15/4/12 at 07:26 PM

The best stuff I found was the CLS timber that Joel mentioned, it's a uniform width to build a correct thickness partition, and it's long enough to reach floor to ceiling of most standard houses. Here is the Wickes version;

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/107177

With regards to the door frame, you 'can' buy a precut door frame that is the correct size for a standard door. While the theory is sound, the frames I've seen in DIY shops tend to be of such low quality that it's not worth the effort. I just used 12mm thick pine in various widths to build up the frame. And it didn't cost much more in the end.

The spacing should match the width of the plasterboard sheets, so you get one on each edges, then either one or two evenly spaced behind the panel. One is structurally sound, two gives you more options for shelving. Then a few lengths horizontally to keep them stable.

locoboy - 15/4/12 at 07:49 PM

Thanks,
Joel - I will be making the door casing to suit my second hand door, so 87mm B&Q timber (no trade card so I may have to get the old man to buy it on pensioners day!) plus my 25mm of plaster board = 112mm thick. I can then just rip a piece of inch thick pine to the desired 112 mm wide on the table saw and cover up the edges with architrave.

I guess my spacings are going to be partly dependent on the width of the glazed units I have too, can't remember the size off hand but I'm hoping they re less than 2ft wide so I can just build up the shortfall between the uprights spaced at 2ft centres.

Stott - 15/4/12 at 07:56 PM

400 centres on the legs

Head and foot go in first

Noggins not required for your application unless in specific areas ie for shelving mounts etc

Use 4x2 cls timbers from a builders merchants

Buy a door lining from howdens - £10 Seriously not worth the potch making one

Use 1/2" boards unless you really need to save the 3.5mm either side as 3/8" boards are quite a bit more flexible



ATB
Stott



EDIT: Howdens door liners come in 4 1/2" or 5 1/2" IIRC same price

[Edited on 15/4/12 by Stott]

ditchlewis - 15/4/12 at 08:08 PM

studding should be at 450mm centres with noggins at 600mm centres (studs = verticals & noggins horizontals). place a piece of ply in the locations where you want sockets.

i would put the door 450mm from one wall as it would make setting out easier.

i would use plaster board both sides and put insulation between if you intend to board out and insulate all the walls in the garage. i would also put a damp proof membrane between the stud and the floor to prevent the board drawing damp up the board.

hope this helps

ditch

Stott - 15/4/12 at 08:12 PM

You can't use 450mm centres on a std 1200mm wide plasterboard though


EDIT: boards are 2400mm high so not as tall as a standard internal ceiling so when you fix you put the board up to the ceiling leaving a gap at the bottom which is covered by skirting so no damp can propegate up.

In the garage, use a similar method and cut/fix the boards so they are an inch off the floor then trim with upvc facia or the like which is onlt 1/4" thick so not intrusive

[Edited on 15/4/12 by Stott]

locoboy - 15/4/12 at 08:14 PM

Wow, differing advice on centres...... Is there and industry standard?

Ditch, when you refer to ply for sockets, do you mean ply behind the plasterboard? just to bolster it a bit and stop the plasterboard flexing when I'm pushing in and pulling out plugs?

Stott - 15/4/12 at 08:17 PM

400 is std, 1200mm board = one centre at the start of the board, one at the end, and 2 in the middle, it's just the math really

chris-g - 15/4/12 at 08:24 PM

British Gypsum White book is worth looking at, you should find a suitable detail in there.

http://www.british-gypsum.com/literature/white_book.aspx

FuryRebuild - 15/4/12 at 08:29 PM

good advice, and here's my two cents to add.

Howdens: good advice if you can get a trade account. I found my local magnet were more than happy to give me one. Also, ring your local timber merchant when you know what you want - mine even deliver free for orders over £50. DIY stores tend to be eye-wateringly expensive for what you get, and for some stuff, their timber's not even remotely straight.

Secondly, gottabedone's advice to put rockwool in is very good - sound insulation and insulation between the rooms makes a difference. However, when you put it in, it's best to use some form of netting to hold it there - it has a tendency to sag down over time.

cliftyhanger - 15/4/12 at 08:44 PM

I would use the 400mm centres (watch out, some boards are 1220 wide)
ut, have you considered using something like sterlingboard rather than plasterboard. Rather more durable in a garage situation.

907 - 15/4/12 at 09:34 PM

I've just stud walled off part of my hall to make a downstairs loo / wash room.

I bought the studs from Wickes. £2.60 each or £1.86 each if you buy 20. I thought that was cheap.
These are 3" x 1.5", the same size as my garage is made from. (with 10mm ply attached)
They do a bigger size as well.


HTH
Paul G

Chippy - 15/4/12 at 09:56 PM

Foreget all this metric do dah! the boards are 4' x 8' in old money even if they give you a metric size. The uprights should be at 16" C to C, and seeing as its a garage convertion the 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" stuff is plenty big enough. You need to lay a foot piece, (on a run of DPC), although you will need to fix it through that to the floor, and another as a head piece, which hopefuly you can fix to some roof timbers. You realy do need some noggins to stop any flex in the uprights, I would personaly put two at equal spacing, makes for a nice solid wall. Cover with a layer of 1/2" plasterboard, with some rockwool fill in between the uprights for sound and heat insulation. The door frame can be from ex 4" stuff which would possably need a little bit of planing to get to the correct size, if you want to be that fussy. HTH Ray

SteveWalker - 15/4/12 at 09:59 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
With regards to the door frame, you 'can' buy a precut door frame that is the correct size for a standard door.


We did some work on a house in France and needed to put in a new doorway; we were able to go to the local DIY shop and buy a matching door, already fitted to the frame, complete with fitted lock (no handles) and with a couple of battens holding everything square until installation. I've never seen anything similar here.

SteveWalker - 15/4/12 at 10:00 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Foreget all this metric do dah! the boards are 4' x 8' in old money even if they give you a metric size.


Watch out. Some boards are 2400 x 1200 and some are 2440 x 1220.

Slimy38 - 16/4/12 at 07:04 AM

quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Foreget all this metric do dah! the boards are 4' x 8' in old money even if they give you a metric size.


Watch out. Some boards are 2400 x 1200 and some are 2440 x 1220.


Yep, been there, done that, worn the 40mm gaps in the panels...

907 - 16/4/12 at 07:45 AM

Just a bit of relatively trivial info...

Most steel tapes are marked every 16" / 400mm with a dot.
Even my little Fisco is marked at 16" 32" 48" etc.

Paul G
16 inch marks on tapes
16 inch marks on tapes

Peteff - 16/4/12 at 09:09 AM

We always used 3x2 sawn finish for stud walls, everything was geared up for them.

van cleef - 16/4/12 at 12:58 PM

600 mm centres is enough for the studs using 50 x 100 timber and you'll need to put staggered single dwangs which is what we call it but you southerners call them noggins. You need the noggins in to keep the studs straight and to give the studs extra strength as most lengths of timber will be slightly warped. If your putting skirting boards on you'll need a double rail at the bottom for making it easier to nail on and a double rail at the top as it make the top of the plasterboard easier to screw on.

locoboy - 29/4/12 at 05:51 PM

Thanks for all your advice guys.
I will be cracking on with it over the next fortnight.
Col