pekwah1
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| posted on 10/7/17 at 08:52 PM |
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Pre-IVA photos
Hi guys,
Getting closer and closer to the IVA so thought i'd post the usual thread to see what i've done wrong so far.
I feel like i'm about 2 weeks from booking my test, just got some final bits to do.
Things i know about:
1. Edge trim on front wings
2. Steering wheel shroud and pad not fitted
3. Head rests
4. Exhaust clamps - need some help here
5. Wires etc at the dash - ignore these, just haven't finished
6. Front toe rods need covering
7. Alloys - do you think i'll have problems with the design either with or without the centre caps and nuts
8. Air filter not yet fitted
And on with the photos:
All comments more than welcomed! I'd rather get shamed here and have a better idea of what else i've forgotten!
Cheers,
Andy
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ste
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| posted on 10/7/17 at 10:14 PM |
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Last picture, that electrical loom very close to the pipe in there is a big no no for IVA.
Brake pipes going around the steering shaft are also dangerous. someone could lean on that and bend it into the sfat very easily and a loss of
steering and brakes won't be fun.
insulation tape is also a fail to wrap looms. You need non adhesive tape or cloth tape.
check your brake flexible hoses don't contact the suspension or steering system when turned lock to lock and through the full suspension travel.
that's a fail too.
hope this helps
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kingster996
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| posted on 10/7/17 at 10:59 PM |
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There's something in IVA manual I recall about harnesses and seats.
I don't think your allowed to anchor the rear of the harness below the seat so that if there's an accident the belts compress the seat and
it could collapse. Some seats are approved for this by passing some test or type approval and thus can be used (I think).
Best check the manual though.
Also looks like a lot of loose wires and unsecured brake pipe in the engine bay.
You can't have any wires looking as though they're going to move and rub on the chassis or body. Cover with convoluted tubing and secure
at regular intervals (150mm) with cable ties that attach to pop riveted saddles on the chassis.
Hope this helps!
[Edited on 10/7/17 by kingster996]
Also can't see any fog or main beam tell tales? You have a low beam one that's not needed though.
[Edited on 10/7/17 by kingster996]
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure
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pekwah1
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| posted on 10/7/17 at 11:44 PM |
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Thanks for the comments.
I'll check the cables in the tunnel, didn't realise they're not allowed near pipes.
The brake pipes do go around the steering column, but didn't realise this would be a problem, i'll have a think about that....
The engine bay does need a tidy up, i'll get onto that.
The seats are lower than the harnesses, maybe a bit of the padding sticks up a bit but the seats would certainly not collapse or anywhere near.
The fog tell tale is the light on the switch itself, i know you don't necessarily need a tell tale for dipped/side, but my dash lights up all
the time so wanted to have something i could see.
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tims31
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 08:09 AM |
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Just from a quick look,
You will need a breather pipe from the CAM cover
What is the radius of the edge for your center tunnel, you may have to put some edging strips on there.
Cant quite see from the pictures but think you may need some boots on the track rod ends [oops, just seen you have this in your text]
You may also want to think about having some sort of vibration mount for the rear of your exhaust, not an IVA fail I don't think but the bracket
would probably fail due to the vibration
HTH
[Edited on 11/7/17 by tims31]
[Edited on 11/7/17 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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joneh
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 09:07 AM |
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Unsupported brake lines around he steering column and that accelerator cable looks like it fouls, or could foul, the UJ on the steering column.
Looking good though!
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 10:53 AM |
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you appear to have a bolt connecting the brake pedal to the push rod for the master cylinder.
this bolt doesn't appear to come all the way through the nut
might be better with a clevis pin and split pin arrangement.
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pekwah1
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 11:07 AM |
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Seems to be general comment around the brake lines by the column.
Obviously these would be unsupported to some degree when coming from the cylinder. Do you think this would be ok with some additional p clips as soon
as it gets to the bulkhead?
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craigdiver
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 11:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ste
Last picture, that electrical loom very close to the pipe in there is a big no no for IVA.
Where about in the IVA manual is this covered. I was planning running my brake & fuel lines and the loom in kopex adjacent to each other on
individual clips in my tunnel.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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loggyboy
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 12:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Seems to be general comment around the brake lines by the column.
Obviously these would be unsupported to some degree when coming from the cylinder. Do you think this would be ok with some additional p clips as soon
as it gets to the bulkhead?
I would redirect it so it stays one side of column, then make up a bracket and pcliip where the MC bolts to pedal box.
Put the wiring in some conduit and secure every 300mm and running parallel with the lines shouldn't be an issue. bearing in mind my pics are
very much work in progress!
Mistral Motorsport
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Jenko
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 12:14 PM |
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insulation tape is also a fail to wrap looms. You need non adhesive tape or cloth tape.
Is that true?.....
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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loggyboy
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 12:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jenko
insulation tape is also a fail to wrap looms. You need non adhesive tape or cloth tape.
Is that true?.....
There is no mention of it in the manual - I suspect its where a bad job was made on someones build and it fell under the 'General
construction' section.
Just like the ongoing assumption that brakelines held on with riv nuts will fail.
As long as the job is neat, tidy, secure and unlikely to fail prematurely there's no reason tape couldn't be used.
[Edited on 11-7-17 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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avagolen
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 05:47 PM |
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Running pipes & electrics parallel to each other is fine as long as they are secure.
Fuel, Brakes & Electrics.
Here are mine.
 
P_clip_bracket
The Answer for everything, but never the last word....
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 08:16 PM |
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quote:
i know you don't necessarily need a tell tale for dipped/side, but my dash lights up all the time so wanted to have something i could
see.
you do require a position lamps tell-tail separately if the panel light are on all the time
code:
Note 1: The tell tale must operate with the operation of the position lamp switch, it may be the illumination of the instruments or a separate
lamp of any colour (providing it is not likely to confuse the driver) clearly identified in either a pictogram (see section 33) or in a word format.
you also need the main beam tell-tail
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kingster996
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 09:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:
i know you don't necessarily need a tell tale for dipped/side, but my dash lights up all the time so wanted to have something i could
see.
you do require a position lamps tell-tail separately if the panel light are on all the time
code:
Note 1: The tell tale must operate with the operation of the position lamp switch, it may be the illumination of the instruments or a separate
lamp of any colour (providing it is not likely to confuse the driver) clearly identified in either a pictogram (see section 33) or in a word format.
you also need the main beam tell-tail
Yes but no tell tale is actually required for dipped - but there must be one for main beam. Normally, assuming the backlights on the gauges are NOT
always on, they can act as the "lights on" tell take.
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure
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craigdiver
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 09:24 PM |
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Please excuse my ignorance but why is the engine not straight? Would have imagined it would need to be in line with the transmission tunnel?
Apart from that, great looking car - well done
[Edited on 11/7/17 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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pekwah1
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 09:35 PM |
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A common comment with the striker - it's designed that way....
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loggyboy
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 10:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Please excuse my ignorance but why is the engine not straight? Would have imagined it would need to be in line with the transmission tunnel?
Apart from that, great looking car - well done
[Edited on 11/7/17 by craigdiver]
As above, the striker is about 1ft shorter and a fair few inches narrower than most 7 style cars. The offset allows the pedals to sit further
forward, and balances the weight of the driver and engine left to right. The tunnel is also off centre, the driver gets a inch more waist width. The
diff is also slightly off centre meaning n/s driveshaft is about 1.5 inch shorter.
[Edited on 11-7-17 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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ste
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| posted on 11/7/17 at 10:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jenko
insulation tape is also a fail to wrap looms. You need non adhesive tape or cloth tape.
Is that true?.....
Falls under General Construction. Tape deteriorates over time and warmth melts the glue so they don't like it. was told this by the SVA
inspector on my last build.
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