New Furore Formula Build

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russbost

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Building: One Off Reverse Trike

posted on 24/4/17 at 04:42 PM

Day 15, all starting to slow down a bit now. Today was occupied with finishing off the cooling system (there's a further pipe to be added for the temp sender for the Acewell, but I haven't got it yet, cooling system is at least full of water & leak checked for the moment!). Fuel pressure reg & return all in & started on fitting the chain drive diff & reverse provided by the Toyota starter motor

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I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

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Building: One Off Reverse Trike

posted on 25/4/17 at 06:16 PM

Day 16, a bits 'n'bobs day. Finish fitting diff, driveshafts & sprocket cover, fit throttle bracket & cable & gearshift cable & bracket at engine end

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Building: One Off Reverse Trike

posted on 26/4/17 at 06:23 PM

Day 17. Almost at the point where I can start the engine & then start the laborious job of remaking the loom. But first need to make up the front end of the exhaust, if I ran it at this stage I think I'd be deaf fairly rapidly! The back end is a unit I use for IVA as it's nice & quiet & has a CAT in it, this late engine probably doesn't need the additional CAT, but that's something to play with further down the line.

Here you can see the bike CAT, I have cut away the rear section of the exhaust where it splits into 2 on the bike, I weld a new section onto this to connect with the rear part of the exhaust

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russbost

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Building: One Off Reverse Trike

posted on 27/4/17 at 06:30 PM

Ok, apparently Day 18 is where I have to bite the bullet & get down to some serious wiring work with the loom, for the older ZZR1400, pre around 2014/15 I have made myself a great set of instructions which tells you everything you need to do to the loom to get rid of sidestand/clutch/kill/bike down switches & allow startup with the car in gear (bikes don't start unless in neutral for fairly obvious reasons!) & also to prepare the ZZR loom ready to fit to our own ready made loom.
However, the 2016 loom is different - DOH!!!

I did know this b4 I started, but it's still a pain, you have to keep the original key & barrel as there is something which identifies the key to the ECU & you can't bypass it in the normal way, I even looked at getting the ECU flashed to remove the immobiliser, but apparently you can't - at least not on the ECU I have anyway)
Hence I am entering a somewhat unknown area, so will proceed with caution. I have got the car to the point where I can fire the engine up with all the old bike loom in place & will only remove one circuit at a time to ensure I don't suddenly find myself with a dead engine & no idea what killed it.

Watch this space!

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That's the ABS plug in the pic above - that's something that's got to go for starters!

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All connected & ready for startup

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Ok, gonna admit to a schoolboy error here - wasted half an hour trying to start it & wondering why the heck it now wouldn't go, when was running perfectly in the bike b4 I stripped it??? I'd decided not to wire around the "tip over" or "bike down" sensor until I had it all running, however as I had clipped the sensor on upside down the ECU thought I had therefore crashed & killed the fuel! Once inverted all was good! Even more annoying my instructions for removing that sensor were all correct for the 2016 ECU & had I done it first I wouldn't have wasted time scratching my head! These little things are sent to try us - at least so I'm told!

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Building: One Off Reverse Trike

posted on 3/5/17 at 06:36 PM

We're on the 19th day, & getting thoroughly entrenched in the wiring. I have gradually removed circuits & bypassed the various kill switches etc. without a problem, still removing wires that are for circuits no longer required like ABS, hence the big pile of wiring!

Sometimes you need to go backwards b4 you can go forwards - I do understand why some people get daunted by wiring, all I would say is that calm & methodical wins the day!

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posted on 9/5/17 at 06:41 PM

Ok, I won't bore you stiff with loads of pics of bits of wire - loom work is not the most exciting, but a necessary evil!
This represents days 20 thro' to 24, you can see the loom gradually getting tidier! I won't case it all up until all lights & dash etc. is all in & everything running from the key & switches as it should - tends to save a lot of swearing if you have to cut loom casing back open when you realise you've forgotten something or there is something not working as it should!

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The very observant amongst you (c'mon, you all missed it, admit it!), will have noticed that the temp arrangement of the fuel reg setup has now been more permanently fitted, all the fuel hoses still need final fitting with rubber spacers etc.

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Building: One Off Reverse Trike

posted on 10/5/17 at 06:43 PM

Days 25, 26 & 27 still wiring, plus a couple of other jobs, added the dash (ok that's still wiring!) & fixing points, added the front light bar (will be replaced later), & mounted the horn, most circuits are in now, 2 days at most should see the back of nearly all the wiring jobs, I'll leaving extending the rear loom until the wing struts that the lights mount to are in & as already said won't finalise all loom coverings etc. till a little further on just in case!

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[Edited on 10/5/17 by russbost]

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posted on 11/5/17 at 06:18 PM

Day 28 & 29, finally all wiring is in, mounted the speedo pickup today & also the reverse switches & solenoid for the electric reverse provided by the donor Toyota starter motor, the engagement of which is also all adjusted & now setup. I still need to make a mounting panel for the lights, fog & reverse switches, but that's the only wiring left to do other than the rear light loom to be added when I fit rear wing supports (that's where the lights mount). You have now caught up to where I actually am with the build, so everything from here on will be pretty much as it happens!

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I've included these last couple of pics specifically as I know some people struggle with knowing how to fit the speedo sensor on the Acewell speedos, last pic shows it perfectly, the magnet should pass along the line at either one end or the other of the sensor - it MUST NOT run down the length of the sensor as this will cause multiple & erratic signals, I have embedded the magnet in the head of a bolt so it is adjustable to get the correct airgap to the sensor

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[Edited on 11/5/17 by russbost]

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posted on 11/5/17 at 06:55 PM

Looking really good mate, excellent job you're making there

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posted on 16/5/17 at 07:07 PM

Thanks Mash!

Ok, we're 30 days in & wiring is finally (almost!) finished, back on the bodywork

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Unfortunately b4 I can do final fit of O/S sidepod, just need to encase the loom first! (so much for "finished the wiring!)

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The "bonnet" is made to fit both old & new style sidepods, so, to fit to the new style ones we have here, the rear section needs to be removed

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Quite time consuming as to get a neat fit requires careful trimming

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New bracket made to support rear of bonnet

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posted on 18/5/17 at 05:06 PM

Day 31, steady progress on the bodywork, supports/locators made to fit rear edge of "bonnet" to sidepods, now bonnet has been drilled for rear mounting, the Acewell can now be mounted up (yes, b4 anyone comments, the bracket has now been squared up since pic was taken!

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Rear lower engine cover is cut away to match new sidepod end, cut piece used for template for opposite side to ensure all equal

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posted on 24/5/17 at 05:14 PM

It's day 32 & starting to look the part!

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Preparing the rear wing sides, both sides clamped & drilled together to ensure uniformity

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Once ready, it's a simple matter to bolt them in place, these have to go on prior to final fit of rear "deck" (lower half of engine cover) as they affect how the deck sits on the rear chassis arms

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The 2 rear wing blades are then bolted in between to give a stiff structure

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Rear deck can now have final fit & fixings fitted

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& suddenly it starts to look like a Furore!

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[Edited on 24/5/17 by russbost]

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posted on 25/5/17 at 09:26 AM

Day 33 & last post for a little while as off for a hard earned break! Rear indicators are on, location for upper engine cover bolted in whilst bonding paste cures, & further fittings to the front of the upper engine cover ready to accept the passenger seat cover. The 2 are then mated together & temporarily clamped & bolted to fit accurately together, when fitting the upper engine cover & passenger seat cover to the car they are best fitted as one piece & only separated once a satisfactory fit is achieved, from experience fitting the rear half followed later by the front half is a recipe for a poor fit. Once all in place fittings left to cure overnight. They are initially bonded in with Siraflex, once cured this will be overlaid with fibreglass mat bonded in place to ensure all stays where it's meant to

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posted on 25/5/17 at 11:45 AM

good post

like everything bar the location of the fuel tank, I'd want that behind the driver seat like the real cars rather than have the passenger seat

side pods are much better though do tend to make the car seem higher than before, a side skirt might look good

surprised you don't sell more as I'd want one of these much more than a 7

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posted on 25/5/17 at 01:56 PM

Relocating the fuel tank would be simple.

When it's got its wheels on most people say the new pods make it look lower, makes the higher ground clearance (than F1) less obvious, one customer did an extended flat floor & carbon covered it, looked brilliant & did make it look lower, tho' was actually only lower by about 8mm

TBH, when I built the first car that was purely for myself, never intended to go into business with it, then it got on the front cover of Kitcar mag, national papers & BBC TV (plus Fuji TV in Japan!) & the rest as they say, is history. Even then I never anticipated it being more than a hobby business, but I've sold 5 complete cars, finished builds on 2 others & sold quite a few kits, this one will be chassis no. 17 (plus the original twin engined car) & I have chassis 18 waiting to start when this ones done, tho' that will be a much more relaxed build. If I was younger & still hungry I'd be pushing much harder for sales, as it is, I'm very happy for it to be a hobby business

I think it's too much of a niche market to sell loads, tho' if anyone could be bothered to put the time & money into getting type approval I have people all over the world wanting cars - the problem is invariably local regs, tho' we have one on the road in the States, one in Canada, & at least one on the road in Germany, passed TUV (might be 2 or more, not sure). There are 4 cars in Germany, two ZZR1400 engined cars regularly used for trackdays - they actually put paying (read novice!) drivers in the front & an instructor in the back - the instructors must be braver than I am, I'd want at least a kill switch & dual control brakes! I'm sure one reason I don't sell loads is that they're not as cheap as a 7, but unfortunately the bodywork/wings etc all have moulds that need to be paid for .........

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posted on 14/6/17 at 06:54 PM

Now, where was I b4 I so rudely interrupted myself? Right, day 34, work completed just b4 I skived off for a couple of weeks! First the laser cut front wing centre supports have to be bent to shape - bending fairly short sections of 6mm ali is always fun, NOT! Amazing what a vice & a large rubber mallet can achieve!

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Brackets have to be cut from 6mm ali angle to fit the top & bottom of the supports to nose & wing, these need to be fairly substantial as the front wing alone, without the secondaries, can generate around 60kg of downforce at 160mph (from calculations) which the car is theoretically capable of & I'm pretty certain that in practice could get close given a long enough straight

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Within the wing itself there is a substantial composite "board" along with vertical ali stiffeners to make sure the whole wing is strong enough to withstand these forces

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posted on 15/6/17 at 06:47 PM

Once all bits of wing are marked & drilled time for a quick coat of primer & paint, whilst drying did a couple of other bits & pieces that were hanging about, battery clamp for rear of battery tray, & bonded in with glassfibre the "tags" etc. already fitted to the rear bodywork bits. Once dry, the main wing blade is fitted followed by the end plates & secondary "winglets"

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posted on 20/6/17 at 04:29 PM

36 days in. Finished a few minor jobs like fuel filler pipe & breathers b4 continuing with fitting the last bits of bodywork, those being the upper engine cover & the front half of the airbox that attaches to the rear upper engine cover & hides the rear passenger seat when not required.

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posted on 21/6/17 at 05:41 AM

just an observation (and you know generally I really like this car and would love one if I had the cash)

you've mounted the tank filler to the top of a side pod... so in a crash where the side pod is hit, maybe not even knocked off, it's going to pull the hose right off the fuel tank and let petrol spill out.

I'm not keen on this

Even if you kept it located there I'd have liked a substantial structure mounted to the chassis side that held the filler so in the event the side pod was knocked off the filler would be unaffected. With all that empty space in there a protective frame could have been made to go over the tank to further improve things.

My old landy has a similar location for it's fuel tank and I have used extra outriggers and tube (scaffold) to protect it, maybe ott for your car but the same idea.

Keep going though, great post

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posted on 21/6/17 at 07:47 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
just an observation (and you know generally I really like this car and would love one if I had the cash)

you've mounted the tank filler to the top of a side pod... so in a crash where the side pod is hit, maybe not even knocked off, it's going to pull the hose right off the fuel tank and let petrol spill out.

I'm not keen on this

Even if you kept it located there I'd have liked a substantial structure mounted to the chassis side that held the filler so in the event the side pod was knocked off the filler would be unaffected. With all that empty space in there a protective frame could have been made to go over the tank to further improve things.

My old landy has a similar location for it's fuel tank and I have used extra outriggers and tube (scaffold) to protect it, maybe ott for your car but the same idea.

Keep going though, great post

Description

Entirely fair & intuitive comment, always happy to receive constructive feedback.

In fairness for what you describe to happen would require a particular set of circumstances - first you'd need to brim the tank (which I almost never do, the exception being if I'm doing long distances & want every drop available), which you will note is set at an angle to aid fuel pickup at the rear when fuel is low, due to the tank being relatively tall & narrow, fuel level drops fairly quickly away from the top, so the accident would need to be within the first few miles after filling. For the sidepod to get ripped off would in itself require an unusual set of circumstances in a road accident, & remember the car is designed primarily as a road car (on a track I could envisage many scenarios where a sidepod could get taken off). The sidepod is pretty rigid & obviously protected to a certain extent from both front & rear by the wheels, if hit direct in the side I would be more worried about the whole tank rupturing rather than the filler getting ripped off, but a glancing blow from the right direction could certainly produce the scenario you describe. All the hot stuff is a considerable way from the tank, but that may be of no help depending how fuel is able to spread

I have built one chassis which at the customers request had an additional frame added to the chassis outriggers to give additional protection to the tank, but I doubt that would have helped much re the filler being ripped off. It's something which could fairly easily be protected, probably simplest way would be to foam fill around the filler neck, would have to be done after IVA as it's an area they want to be able to see. It's obviously an area which can be addressed by any individual builder, I supply the kit, how it's built is up to them.

Alternatively the whole sidepod could be additionally braced & foam filled - I guess it depends how much you worry about these things, I know whether I'd rather be in a 7 (or indeed most other low sports cars), in a side impact or the Furore where you are substantially protected to shoulder height

Doing the foam filled thing would of course lose the "luggage space" within the sidepod - it always seems to amuse people when I arrive at a car show & proceed to remove my rucksack & folding chair from the N/S sidepod!

[Edited on 22/6/17 by russbost]

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posted on 26/6/17 at 07:20 AM

Day 37, finish off the last bits of bodywork fitting which is the cover for the passenger seat/front half of airbox. Wheels & tyres have now arrived so I can now get the mudguards fitted, final bending of the wheel arch stays is done on the car over the wheels/tyres being used as that way best fit is achieved. Wheel arches are marked on the outside with masking tape to show where the stays lie, essential to rough up both the internal fibreglass of the wheel arches & the mating face of the stay to allow the Siraflex to get a good grip. I don't like unsightly bolts!

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posted on 28/6/17 at 07:01 PM

Day 38, looking more like a finished vehicle every day!

Finished off another couple of minor bits 'n' pieces today, viz fit steering wheel & make up rear section of loom for lights. The rest of the day was spent constructing the airbox from scratch, something I simply never got around to getting laser cut - I wish I had, best part of a days labour for an airbox can't be a bargain!

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posted on 29/6/17 at 06:31 PM

Had to return to some undone earlier bits today, Day 39, I hadn't got the ali tube that takes the temp sensor for the Acewell when I put the cooling system together, so hadn't been able to run the engine right up to temp as I wouldn't do that without being able to monitor it. So a slight strip & drain down & the temp sensor & tube went in. Finished the airbox & got it painted then fitted to the car along with it's brace (the bike has the airbox built into the frame so not something you can swap!). Air filter fitted (another desirable element for running for any protracted length of time!). Coolant expansion bottle fitted & finally able to run the engine up to temp, a couple of minor weeps from the silicon hoses (why does silicon hose never seem to seal first time round!!!?), also started to tidy up the rear wiring & get it cased up for final fit

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posted on 6/7/17 at 06:22 PM

Day 40 & lots of silly jobs taking loads of time & looking like I've achieved very little, you just have to accept some days are going to be like that! Continue with rear wiring encasing, tidying up & started clipping in place, also got some of the front looms finished off too.

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posted on 6/7/17 at 08:16 PM

Looking amazing. I am finding loads of 'little' jobs that seem to eat up the time, however, it is very satisfying to get them done.

And got to say, thanks for introducing another chassis colour for me to be indecisive about!!! :-)

If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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