tims31
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| posted on 2/3/17 at 11:19 PM |
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Fury Chassis setup advice
Things have been progressing well this week with the build to the point where I think I may well get it finished sometime soon and on the road
hopefully before the end of the summer (DVLA Gods permitting).
What I need now is a good chassis setup for the Fury (IRS) to get through IVA and then post IVA.
How do folks go about measuring tow in, tow out, castor and camber without proper gauges. I know when I was Karting we could measure alot of this over
the chassis but the engine gets in the way on cars...
Any advise on how you do this would be most welcome.
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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Ugg10
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 12:00 AM |
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Mark fisher did mine as per the old manual using bits of string.
Went something like -
Measure mid point of chassis front and rear, put two parallel pieces of string either side of the car at wheel centre height (4 axle stands do the
job) this can be used to set toe front and back iirc back parallel front 3-4mm toe in.
Use either plumb bob and a bit of trig to set camber or use mobile phone inclinometer app (will get you close). Iirc it is something like 0.75 degs
top inward for front camber, and about 0.5 gpdegs or upright for rear.
Manuals here http://www.furysportscars.co.uk/?p=Build&s1=TechDocs&s2=PDFFiles
[Edited on 3/3/17 by Ugg10]
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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snapper
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 06:55 AM |
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The only thing you need to worry about at IVA is self centreing
The two things you need to worry about for IVA is self centreing and tyres hiting bodywork
The 3 things you need to worry about for IVA is self centreing, tyres hitting the bodywork and brake flexy's
The Fury should have pretty good geometry but if you have self centreing issues the trick is much higher tyre pressures and a bit of toe out, only for
the test then get it set up properly back at home
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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SJ
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 07:53 AM |
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I set my MK up at home. For Toe I bought a Gunstons Trakrite which works really well - you just drive over it.
For Castor and Camber I got hold of a digital angle gauge and with a few bits of scrap metal made up a tool to measure this - it is just the deviation
away from vertical of a straight line drawn through the upper and lower ball joints.
Camber was measured using the same angle gauge on the face of the brake discs.
The other biggy for me was bump steer. Not sure if this is an issue on the Fury, but again I did this at home fairly easily with a laser pointer
attached to the hub and a vertical line drawn on the wall a foot or so from the car.
With the shock taken off I moved the suspension up and down and watched how the laser pointer deviated from the vertical line.
Not sure how much better the setup could be but the car is very stable and handles well so I'm happy.
Stu
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pekwah1
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 08:10 AM |
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For IVA, i think the general thinking for self centering (the one most people have problems with) is to:
- increase tyre pressures (30psi)
- high caster
- a little bit of toe in (i think, maybe it was toe out actually)
I did mine all by a piece of wood strapped to the rear wheels and a ruler to align the front (live axle) which seemed pretty good!
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SJ
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 08:42 AM |
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With my car I have to say all the adjustments / tyre pressures made sod all difference to self centrering and I resorted to the Pinto valve spring
bodge.
It wasn't until I remade my top wishbones to allow plenty of castor that I got anywhere, and even then it still isn't great. This is on an
MK Indy though. Yours may be different.
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pekwah1
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 10:07 AM |
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On my striker, i had to chop the top suspension arm to introduce more castor.
I didn't fail the IVA on this and then had to do the mod, i just did it straight away after reading about IVA and self centre.
Basically my top arm had a longer centre, so i basically cut where the red lines are, and then used washers to space it further towards the rear of
the car to introduce more castor
I think the fury has a pretty similar setup so you might want to think about the same
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peter030371
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 11:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
On my striker, i had to chop the top suspension arm to introduce more castor.....
and then used washers to space it further towards the rear of the car to introduce more castor
I have done the same but turned up some little spacers, can be seen in this picture here fitted
 
Upper rocker spacer
Car has not yet turned a wheel other than being pushed around so can't say if it works or not yet!
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avagolen
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 11:40 AM |
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For Castor setting, Steve recomends putting the rocker fully forwards.
If you get a simple camber gauge, there is a method of calculating the castor angle by taking the difference of camber angles with 20 degs left /
right wheel angles from the straight ahead position. (Or something like that )
I did not do much with tyre pressures for iva. Just set them to about 20 if i remember.
[Edited on 3/3/17 by avagolen]
The Answer for everything, but never the last word....
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tims31
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 07:27 AM |
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Thanks for the ideas guys.
The Fury rocker arms have the ability to space out front and rear so will hopefully not require cutting down.
Will have to get back in the garage and try to come up with a plan using these ideas.
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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