Pretty sure some form of nose cone damage would be incurred with this front option
I do like bi22le's option though
I'm looking for some inspiration. I want to fit tow points to my IRS Striker as I start sprinting this year. I've lots of ideas but they
tend to involve lots of heavy iron work. Anyone got any pictures of some neat solutions, particularly for the rear end?
[Edited on 9/2/20 by peter030371]
Most Speed event competitors just tow on the roll hoop.
quote:
Originally posted by Memphis
Most Speed event competitors just tow on the roll hoop.
I couldn't find any neat way on my car so I bought one of these. I don't need to carry it in the car, I would use it if my car looses power
during a track day and I can't get it up onto my trailer.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190474084311
These are the only "non-roll hoop" option that I've come across
Pretty sure some form of nose cone damage would be incurred with this front option
I do like bi22le's option though
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
I couldn't find any neat way on my car so I bought one of these. I don't need to carry it in the car, I would use it if my car looses power during a track day and I can't get it up onto my trailer.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190474084311
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
I couldn't find any neat way on my car so I bought one of these. I don't need to carry it in the car, I would use it if my car looses power during a track day and I can't get it up onto my trailer.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190474084311
I quite like that, will have to get me one of them for the day I have to winch the car onto the trailer
After lots of thought and feedback from various people I have decided the perfect answer does not exist so i stopped looking for it.
My idea for solid points front and rear were shelved. If you hit a solid point of the chassis at any speed the chassis is damaged. At least if a
flexible strap damages bodywork whilst being towed its just body work. So I ordered two adjustable TRS two straps and got on with it.
I started out getting some plates cut from steel to clamp around the front and rear chassis rails. I used some spacers to allow me to bolt it all up
tight without crushing the chassis tubes. The spacers also stop it twisting as they make it a snug fit around the chassis tubes. With suitable nuts
and bolts they look like this off the car
Clamp Close
I offered them up a few times and adjusted the length adding tie wraps to holds the excess material and double as fixings for heavy duty Velcro.
Velcro Tow
Front bolted in place without the nose cone'
Front Tow Fitted2
With the nose cone plus folded out the way.
Front Tow Fitted
Rear fitted on the diff carrier.
Rear Tow Fitted
Finally a few 'Tow' signs to help the marshals find them if ever needed
Nose label
If needed both ends just pull down to release from the Velco and both extend out past the bodywork once pulled down. With any luck I will never need
them
Hi
Very pretty - Lol
The Scruitineer will be happy.
The rescue crew invariably won't use them though, they'll use the roll hoop, given that it'll probably be up to it's axles in
gravel at the time then pulling it from the hoop is the way it'll get done.. as that will often see you pulled backwards your light should still
be ok..
Been there, done that.. once or twice...
If you're still with it, then using the bit of the hoop above your head so it doesn't trash your light will work ok when they then tow you
back to the pits.. assuming it'll tow etc etc
Though Seriously
&
To be very fair, you'd be amazed how infrequently you see cars get properly biffed.
So I wouldn't worry about it, keep the scruitineers happy and then simply forget about it, if the worst does happen then a bit of damaged
fibreglass, lights etc etc are all fixable as long as your OK at the time.
Where are you planning to get out there? (as and when we're allowed that is!)
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Where are you planning to get out there? (as and when we're allowed that is!)
Don't
get me wrong I like a bit of competition but I might as well reverse around the course for all the good it will do me because I will never beat one of
them anyway.
On my old locost I had an exhaust clamp, as per the attached ebay link
I run a die over the treads to make them about 30 mm long
drilled two 10mm holes in the bottom rail, cut some stainless tube 10mm x1mm wall x 25mm long
Put them in the bottom rail holes, and they were tight enough to stay there
put the nuts and penney washer on the clamps and through the holes, and two 8mm locknuts and penny washer on the other end
My old locost was towed many times with this method, and never failed
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-U-Bolt-Exhaust-Clamps-Heavy-Duty-Clamp-with-Nuts-All-Sizes-28-130mm/252487878576?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item
3ac97347b0:m:m9yefeb3Ytry705QvtNL9IQ&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKBMsgxzC%2B4AcufPIrJqKaABHjY%2B0%2BQvrScos9aRdwEnfrFp3
k%2FRtrbk7XbTL0%2BVb85VaFZs75Cl%2Fu%2FKNJ29ZmFeNBDoHsPFotk3o%2F7s6YIJB13S3uAgx5cEpQMeB9eP%2B%2Bv3Vi3rq8%2B4dCY1xj0F40D5dMMiiIpt%2BIYnXy%2F9AxuPYQNCL9%
2Bc6NNk0ojgHFZyulOiauNLFL4f6F4LJH2puIB%2FTOARnYerrFueH7B08566Os%2FJNyKXcMxAKeMWDSN%2BKtzeDAEXh2MayldN5Z2IAidpSi4NF41GM8Uu5S8s7rEw1aKI2nEcpDNJJwN9HnJtt
HvHmcpTlBic23zZAl50ZARggPb%2BxEoTFkEPDy3kqiBKjlWKmlayVG20qZUW%2FQx6y4DBMQwk4zhcyNcOzURPgTtrk%2Bv5G8fNds6o0brCw2T4XKWjoiz%2BM9VhmOTK%2BjO5ejbnMZ0e7dAFk
uOJNsZvH9OWVBzh8mCANM8kpJ510cAoXUxXDoaIqQJqsLyzT7ibGbmI6B4dXgxG4igovJv%2Fy4g1q%2Figm2TDI8VKaaYCIqziaWNeUJt%2FwKRVDrKydyILw5Vx1kvaEVxLXxWmRkoDirnEtjOy6
j5g9NPncKvvWGkdwFiaFuCLr%2FynQVAEy2ew4mCDpZ3Uc6k3%2B5ifDBMwbk6725UkjpLobMy7zHSGAntM%2FcpRijyQn%2BpmwOEm5smgDhxxBP%2BqYiG67Lg%2FuROIIgAawm7WVZ49XdvnVZi
8P87A04BJe%2BWvhWdgJIMdDO8WhP&checksum=252487878576ef4ef5f232c2445eb2b4ee1322e466ad
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Where are you planning to get out there? (as and when we're allowed that is!)
I was going to start with the Javelin series. I had entered this years championship but obviously that is all over now. If they go ahead in the summer I will probably do one or maybe two events as a toe in the water for next year.
From what I can see a 200ishBHP Striker is going to be put in the same class as a Caterham 620R if I look at any Motorsport UK events
quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Where are you planning to get out there? (as and when we're allowed that is!)
I was going to start with the Javelin series. I had entered this years championship but obviously that is all over now. If they go ahead in the summer I will probably do one or maybe two events as a toe in the water for next year.
From what I can see a 200ishBHP Striker is going to be put in the same class as a Caterham 620R if I look at any Motorsport UK events
The 620R Caterhams I've seen while competing have always been slower than you would expect, it is the quick Westfields which you need to look for.
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Where are you planning to get out there? (as and when we're allowed that is!)
I was going to start with the Javelin series. I had entered this years championship but obviously that is all over now. If they go ahead in the summer I will probably do one or maybe two events as a toe in the water for next year.
From what I can see a 200ishBHP Striker is going to be put in the same class as a Caterham 620R if I look at any Motorsport UK events
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
The classes vary depending on what level the meeting is, 'National' rounds have different classes from 'Interclub', at the former it's normally Up to 2L and Over, Interclub - there are regional variations around up to 1.7, 1.7 & Over (and sometimes the '& Over' is split again)
But you'll find the actual times between the classes are remarkably small, it's quite normal for a 1600 to be quicker than the larger engine class, several of the venue class records reflect that - and some of them (Class 2A - up to 1700cc road going 'kits & locaterfields' ) are still set by a Striker too - and the last time I ran it seriously was 2011
It's all about You to start off with, it'll take you a while to get the most out of yourself, then it's all about the car's handling.
Power is well down the list as long as you have 'Some', and circa 200 will be plenty.. (it's circa 20 more than I ran in mine)
Once you're up to speed, then getting the car to really work is where you can make the biggest Investment - and the good bit about that is the 'Investment' is little money but a chunk of time..
Getting You to work and then the Car to handle is way cheaper then throwing horsepower at it..
My motorsport motto has always been; - 'keep the oily bits as simple as possible, make it handle right and drive it properly'.
Makes for Cheap(ish..), Competitive, Club motorsport - or it does for me.
HTH
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
Looking at some of the local sprints I have seen a few variations in class structure and its all a bit confusing to an 'outsider'. The Javelin series is a relatively cheap way to get started although they are all a trek from down south but then Javelin are based up north so they are doing it to suit them which I understand.
I have a 2lt Duratec and don't want to really change it. I have just built the car with this engine as that is what I wanted to use but I also don't want to spend silly money on the engine which is currently almost as it came out of the Fiesta ST150. If this engine goes 'pop' I can get a scrapyard engine and swap over the sump, injection and flywheel and off I go again
I am 100% aware that in terms of better times it's all about me learning how to drive fast first. I went on a tuition day in it at the start of March which I learn a lot from. The same amount of money spent on the car would not have made any difference really