theconrodkid
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 10:48 AM |
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MGF....what to look for
Friend of mine has asked me to have a look at an MGF,what to look for apart from the usual rust and head gasket ?.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Daf
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 11:09 AM |
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- Strange or uneven tyre wear. If the hydragas isn't set up properly they can go through an alarming number of tyres!
- cracks around rear damper mounts
- obviously the HG, also check timing belt history (don't ask why I suggest this!!)
- Rubber boots on gear linkage cables/general condition of the ball joints on the end of these cables. Pain in the **** of a job to change
I've had mine for years and love it, brilliant thing to drive. However I've had the pleasure of driving a bad one and oh boy can they be
terrible!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 11:35 AM |
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Most important thing is look for a TF not an MGF unless it is an exceptionally immaculate one.
Apart from that look for corroded under car coolant pipes, rust (it is after all a rearranged Metro), signs of rear suspension damage and alarm
immobiliser problems. 2003 on cars should be OBD2 compliant so the ECU will have the VIN stored and any stored codes. Most OBD2 tester will also do
the emission test readiness check.
I personally I would avoid a VVC as it adds complication, also I prefer the 1.6 or even 1.4 over the1.8.
Engine wise look to avoid cars with skanky looking coolant or obvious signs of excess water consumption theengine should have a thermostat fitted so
should warm up reasonable quickly and hold a steady. 90 to 91c when moving. Coolant loss is not always head gasket related but from leaking inlet
gaskets , heater hose joints or the steel coolant pipes is common Look out for excessive hydraulic tappet noise.
Head gaskets are not the problem they are made out to be, any car that has done over 60,000 will most likely have had the Freelancer gasket
fitted.
The original gasket used to literally wear out due to head shuffle on every cold start.
Replacing the head gasket is quite easy and contrary to a lot of info floating around the only part usually needed is the 2 part Freelancer gasket.
Most or all these are fixable except rust.
Cam belt changes are at 48,000 miles on early engines or 60,000 miles on later "EU3" engines, easy job no special tool required just a
bit RTFM and care.
[Edited on 8/6/15 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 11:57 AM |
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Have had a few suspension arms dangerously rusted
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SCAR
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 12:43 PM |
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Also check headlight main and dip beam as the chrome reflective surface behind the glass turns dull grey with age resulting in no beam pattern, an mot
failure. Only solution is to replace the whole unit and used ones are usually just as bad. Oh and don't forget to tell him that it will be worth
scrap value only when if he decides to sell it! Nobody wants my tidy 1.8vvc even with 11 months mot
 
Description
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Description
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pewe
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 02:15 PM |
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An MX5.....
Cheers, Pewe10
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 02:20 PM |
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The radiators rot and weep. And rust.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 03:00 PM |
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cheers guys,yes i know a 5 is a better bet but they are a bit thin on the ground in decent nick,unfortunatley i will be the mug who has to fix it
if/when it goes wrong.
having a look at it tonight.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Simon
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| posted on 8/6/15 at 05:50 PM |
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Can't add anything useful other than to say the i was completely uninterested in the TF till i got mine and its a cracking little car. Be better
once i get the turboed K fitted and remapped 
ATB
Simon
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