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Author: Subject: Ranger rover classic power steering pump
Moorron

posted on 14/4/10 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
Ranger rover classic power steering pump

Hi guys im after advice on the above, mine is leaking and im not sure how easy it is to repair (repair kits available) or just buy a new reconned one. The model is ANR2003 which is off the classic v8 model so any tips welcome.

Got to save money for the engine rebuild (mk indy) somehow!





Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.

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britishtrident

posted on 14/4/10 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
You could try putting some Auto Transmission Stop Leak in it it might just be enough to swell the seals, often the seals shrink if a fully synthetic fluid such as Dextron III has been used in the system in place of the original mineral oil fluid (Dextron II).

These days I change my steering fluid at least ever 3 years, first time I changed it I dipped a powerful magnmet in the old fluid and was amazed how by amount of iron/steel wear particles were in the oil.

[Edited on 14/4/10 by britishtrident]





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dazzx10r

posted on 14/4/10 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
they all do it at sometime in thier life, my other hobby is offroading in my landy, checkout http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/
Try putting 1/2 a cup of brake fluid into the powersteering res, it swells the seals. I did it on my landy and it stoped the leak.

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paulf

posted on 14/4/10 at 08:48 PM Reply With Quote
I had the pump on my Rover 600 fail due to the main input shaft bearing collapsing.I removed it and managed to dismantle it and change the bearing and seals and then reassembled it with some instant gasket for a total cost of £5 .
I had the car for 5 years after that and had no further problems with it, I would assume the Range Rover one to be serviceable also.
Paul

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caber

posted on 14/4/10 at 09:05 PM Reply With Quote
These are pretty cheap as recon units from Paddocks. I was told they need properly setting up if you take them to pieces so have just exchanged mine, twice in 10 years ownership of my 1979 range Rover. If you plan to keep it I would get an exchange if you are going to get rid in a year or two you could try one of the bodge techniques however if they don't work you could end up wrecking the pump as well!

Caber

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richardh

posted on 15/4/10 at 07:29 AM Reply With Quote
I tried repairing my old one on last series 3 conversion but for the price of one at a scrappies i went with that.





Time for a change!

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Wheels244

posted on 15/4/10 at 08:03 AM Reply With Quote
I didn't realise we had so many Landrover fans on here - result

Regarding the steering box - if you do the seals I would makes sure you get the OE ones - cheaper pattern ones will leak not long after fitting and you'll have to do it all again.
The drop arm can be be a PITA to get off - very tight.

And just cos I can here's some pics of my Disco

Description
Description

Description
Description


Richard - your RangeRover looks great - what's the spec ?

[Edited on 15/4/10 by Wheels244]

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AdamR

posted on 15/4/10 at 08:36 AM Reply With Quote
Moorron,

I've got an unneeded pump from a serpentine 3.9 V8. I am not sure of condition, but the rest of the engine was perfect if that is any indication. Yours for postage costs if you're able to wait a few weeks.

HTH
Adam

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richardh

posted on 15/4/10 at 09:57 AM Reply With Quote
Wheels244

Its an 87 3.5efi with
1) New 2 inch suspension spring lift plates all round
2) New 3 inch suspension lift springs/dampers
3) New longer braided brake lines front and rear
4) New front suspension turret rings/turrets
5) New suspension bump stops all round
6) New front winch bumper (no winch fitted currently)
7) New 4 inch Body Lift kit with new additional washers/rubbers/tube mounts
8) New steering wheel and mounting boss kit
9) New Flexible Extra Wide Wheel Arch Extensions
10) New Adjustable Panhard Rod
11) New Steering Damper
12) Replacement rear Radius Arms with corrected alignment for lift kit
13) New Headlight kit (direct replacement part with uprated bulbs)
14) New Lights all round (Land Rover Series type circular ones)
15) Steel Wheels 16 inch in black – BOUGHT FROM A FRIEND AS HE HAD THIS SET SPARE
16) Creepy Crawler 37 inch Tryes - BOUGHT FROM A FRIEND AS HE HAD THIS SET SPARE
17) New Wheel Nuts including Locking wheel nuts (1 on each wheel)
18) Replacement (old) Electric Leather seats (from a similar aged scrapped Range Rover)
19) Repainted Roof – Black
20) Repainted Bodywork – Blue
21) New rear reflectors

Winch to follow once i get a job.
rest is usual service stuff. changed hub oil, diff oil, greased all nipples etc

Might get around to raised air intake and roof light bar etc too

couple of rear body mounts to fix and weld but thats about it

new drilled and grooved discs on the way with an optima red top battery

clifford alarm

might need to change the diff ratios later but it moves so i just need to watch the speedo for now





Time for a change!

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Moorron

posted on 15/4/10 at 08:39 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the replies lads. Cheers for the offer AdamR but i went and bought a new one today for £170. Thing is driving home the steerinf freed up but i am still going to do it.

The steering was easy one moment then hard the next, like the pump was pulsing slowly and made it feel like a icey road all the time. so that and the drips on the drive seemed to point at the pump. but i havent lost any fluids unless its out of the transfer box as it pipes to the front of the rad?

The leaking fluid was red so wasnt engine oil so its comming off tomorrow which gives me 2 days incase i break something.

Ive never took mine offroad, its more of a scrubby bling thing then a huge monster buggy. it needs some tlc aswell as the bonnet and lower boot are beyond repair and the alloys need refurbing now when i have the dosh.

But 14.5 mpg is hurting me now! but the sound of a V8 thru a side exit exhaust makes up for it.

[Edited on 15/4/10 by Moorron]





Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.

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