My tin top is using 1 litre of oil every 500 miles but the compression is all good.
My mechanic mate said it wouldn't be the pistons and recommended that I give the engine a thorough flush out.
Can someone please recommend a really good quality flush.
Regards
Brad.
My local garage uses Forte.
The oil is either leaking out or getting into the bores.
Valve seals? blue smoke on overrun (do you still get that with a CAT fitted????) or via the rings.
Could be breathers blocked? Puffing out the oil filler if you remove the cap
Not sure what a flush will actually achieve, but you may get lucky. Forte seems to be the one used by many garages...
If you want to use a flushing oil, use Forte and nothing else imho
Had a mate with a Nissan twin turbo engine and that started smoking (blue smoke) after it had been sat idling for awhile
Compression's were all good and we suspected an oil control ring issue, one can of Forte later and all was well
We may have just been lucky, but it worked...
I'd be checking everything else first though..
The oil isn't leaking out. I would have some large patches on my drive if so.
I had the pcv replaced a year ago and that improved things but the usage has returned.
I do suffer with smoke from exhausts, but to my eyes it is white. Although I am not using any coolant. I was going to video the smoke at the weekend
after a good 25 minutes driving but because it was a spirited drive there was no smoke.
I'm hoping it's the control rings that have ceased a little, hence the flushing.
It's a supercharged v6 with 120k on the clock and it's such a fantastic car to drive.
I've used Wynn's engine flush for years and the results below - zero vanish or deposits @ 60k
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
I'm hoping it's the control rings that have ceased a little, hence the flushing.
It's a supercharged v6 with 120k on the clock and it's such a fantastic car to drive.
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
I'm hoping it's the control rings that have ceased a little, hence the flushing.
It's a supercharged v6 with 120k on the clock and it's such a fantastic car to drive.
Is the charger lubricated with engine oil?
Could it be leaking threw that into the intake system?
A ltr every 500 miles is a massive amount to be burning, surprised the cat/'s aren't knackered tbh
[Edited on 22/1/18 by CosKev3]
Supercharger is a sealed unit.
unless its going on the ground, I can't believe there's no smoke from this. Maybe you should follow the car while someone else drives ans see when it's burning
I was told many many years ago that "engine flush " is a fancy tin", of a cup full of diesel fuel
and thats what I have put in the oil on every oil change ive done in nearly 40 years
cup full of diesel in the oil, run the engine at idle for 30 mins, wait till its cold, drain and fill with new oil and filter
A good friend works as a forklift engineer, the one "back at base" who gets all the difficult jobs that the others give up on, and
engine/gearbox rebuilds.
He reckons draining the oil, refilling with just diesel and then letting the engine tick over fora while cleans an engine out well, and the diesel,
mixed with the remains of any oil, is enough to prevent any damage. He has been using it for years, some of his work is warranty stuff on new
machines...
He reckons it is good for flushing gearboxes too...
I do normally pour diesel through the engine as a kind of rinse but never started the engine with just diesel. It seems wrong.
Has anyone seen the varnish, Sludge, deposits in an engine using a modern oil that a flush is meant to remove?
I had an Allergro A series engine stored from the late 80's what had a crinkley black coating visable through the oil filler cap.
New oil turned black almost immediately, and after two oil changes the rocker box was clean inside.
Well I performed a 40 minute flush today with Forte flush, a Bosch filter and Smith and Allen 5w 30 oil.
I'll keep an eye on the dip stick as my mileage is quite low at the moment.
If this hasn't worked then I think I will be tackling the valve stem oil seals while the heads are still attached.
If anyone has any tips on performing this task it would be gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Brad
For me diesel works as well as any engine flush. Used it for years without a problem
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
Well I performed a 40 minute flush today with Forte flush, a Bosch filter and Smith and Allen 5w 30 oil.
I'll keep an eye on the dip stick as my mileage is quite low at the moment.
If this hasn't worked then I think I will be tackling the valve stem oil seals while the heads are still attached.
If anyone has any tips on performing this task it would be gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Brad
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
Well I performed a 40 minute flush today with Forte flush, a Bosch filter and Smith and Allen 5w 30 oil.
I'll keep an eye on the dip stick as my mileage is quite low at the moment.
If this hasn't worked then I think I will be tackling the valve stem oil seals while the heads are still attached.
If anyone has any tips on performing this task it would be gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Brad
Try a bottle of engine oil stop leak, Wynns, Forte whatever. It make the seals swell slightly helping them to seal
Don't be fooled by the 'compression is good so it wont be pistons'. Its complete twoddle. The compression is achieved by the top 2
piston rings, oil scraping is done by the oil control or 'scraper' rings. I had a honda CX500 which had amazing compression but drank oil
for this very reason.
Hope it isn't the rings, but don't rule it out... 
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
Try a bottle of engine oil stop leak, Wynns, Forte whatever. It make the seals swell slightly helping them to seal
Already tried that. ;-))
I used Forte on the Jag engine, it was smoking(A LOT) on acceleration after over run. Was disappointed at first, but after about
300/400 miles it has stopped completelyIt does say on the tin that it takes a few hundred miles to work.
roadrunner - 5/2/18 at 11:29 AMThis is one of the plugs
[img]http://[/img]
CosKev3 - 5/2/18 at 11:59 AMIt's definitely burning oil then!
roadrunner - 5/2/18 at 12:02 PMIt's finding form which end is the trick.
roadrunner - 11/2/18 at 09:40 PMBeen talking to my local mechanic about this problem. Wondered if he would swap my stem oil seals. He was full of useful information. He believes that it is the oil rings that are sticking and causing blow by. He thinks I should persevere with the flushing.
With this in mind I've been reading about this problem and the possible causes. Been driving this weekend in manual mode letting the hover at 6500. I've noticed a difference already vastly improved idle smoke.
Fingers crossed.
CosKev3 - 12/2/18 at 01:33 AMWhat car is this BTW?
roadrunner - 12/2/18 at 05:53 AMAudi a6 3.0tfsi supercharged.
roadrunner - 17/2/18 at 04:39 PMSo I have soaked my pistons over night.
Was quite pleased with the condition of the plugs. Must be doing something right.
[img]http://
Description [/img]
Only retrieved less than half of the Marvel Mystery Oil that I put in. Some may have run down the exhaust valves if any where open. One of the cylinders didn't have any left in at all.
When I did the compression test last year I had 135 psi to 140 psi across all cylinders. This time I got 165 psi on 2 cylinders. 175 psi on 3 cylinders and 205 on one cylinder.
So in my mind there's been a definite improvement.
It gave a good smoke show when I started it up.
40inches - 17/2/18 at 05:58 PMquote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
So I have soaked my pistons over night.
How and what with?
roadrunner - 17/2/18 at 06:06 PMI used Marvel Mystery Oil. It's an American product. Just poured it down the spark plug holes.
I'd purchased an oil extraction pump from Lidl last weekend and it worked a treat.
40inches - 17/2/18 at 06:13 PMIs this the stuff? eBay Item
obfripper - 17/2/18 at 06:18 PMI use MM oil in my air tools where it works a treat, Eds Red is a good homebrewed alternative and is cheap to make.
I had a siezed (from 15 years of corrosion and water ingress) tractor that i filled all 4 bores with Eds Red and left overnight - was free in the morning and running in the afternoon.
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/ed'sred.htm
Dave
roadrunner - 17/2/18 at 06:53 PMThat's the stuff.
