Description
Good afternoon all
As per title really took car for mot and when I went to collect it mate says it boiled up on the ramp oh well so topped up coolant and drove it home
about mile and half.
I have changed thermostat even tried with out had water pump off and checked make sure impeller hadn't come off fans running everything gets hot
heater rad etc then blows it out.
I have bleed it and bleed it no miss fires from cold. It's been fine until mot and I use it for work so rag it but never had agro.
Any ideas before I pull head off
Gary
Seems odd that it started suddenly at MoT time. To me it sounds like maybe something is blocked and impeding coolant circulation, but then you say the parts warm up as they should. I think I'd be inclined to try flushing the rad out first and see if that improves things. New rads are not normally that expensive so replacing it wouldn't be the end of the world if that's the issue.
Hi Dude.
I went through the same issues with my R53 MSC. It randomly started to overheat on her way shopping. I want through the same progress as you.
Initially changed the stat as it was a cheap and easy solution. I then flushed the radiator out and it was still over heating. A friend of mine
kindly checked the coolant for signs of combustion gasses all clear. I then decided to check the water pump which involves a fair bit of a strip down.
The impeller etc turned out to be fine. What I found was the water pump is driver from the supercharger on an external drive. Those little cogs had
basically run dry of oil in their sealed housing and mashed themselves up so the water pump was no longer turning. To fix the issue i ended up
replacing the charger. It had my car off of the road for a week.
Feel free to PM me is you need more details of photo etc.
Cheers for replying chaps
Rads are all flushed through, checked gears on charger only changed oil on that 6 months ago so that's all good. However just found its got a two
speed coolant fan although when it does kick in its very hot already so maybe throwing coolant out before it can cool it and by the racket it makes
the slow ones not working. The rad is just hanging on the mounts so drop that tomorrow after work so while she as the v50 for the dogs I'm
demoted to the mgf 😕
[Edited on 14/4/16 by gary gsx]
Does it run at normal temp when the car is moving at a decent speed?
Problem it doesn't have a temp gauge in car just warning light I supposed to be sleeping as I'm working to night but got to get the bottom
of it.. well slow speed resistor is corroded and basically dead. Powered fan up with probe fast good but no slow so I have just ordered a resistor to
go in its place it's quite a common fault apparently by reading some mini forums. I'm going to hard wire and run fan constantly see how that
goes it will over cool it but if it hangs on to coolant I'll be happier
Gary
I posted before that the last few VAG cars (Seat/VW/Skoa) have all had coolant gauges that sit bang on 90C once warmed. Now I know the coolant will change temperature between 65mph cruising and 30mpf stop/start town driving. Since the gauge never moves I believe VAG state 90C as "normal". If it went over I'd stop and check the real temperature and for any coolant loss.
What year R53.... mine has a proper gauge?
Something comes to mind about the system not being bleed and the coolant expansion cap not working. It was a while ago my friend had this issue and buying a new cap solved the problem.
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
I posted before that the last few VAG cars (Seat/VW/Skoa) have all had coolant gauges that sit bang on 90C once warmed. Now I know the coolant will change temperature between 65mph cruising and 30mpf stop/start town driving. Since the gauge never moves I believe VAG state 90C as "normal". If it went over I'd stop and check the real temperature and for any coolant loss.
Somebody mentioned the coolant tank cap the tank and cap is much the same as Rover used, after a few years the caps were prone to the vacum breaker
valve getting choked up. so it might be worth changing the cap.
MINIS! have a reputation for coolant issues the factory fill coolant dosen't mix well with after market OAT coolant and can form a jelly like
gunge..
The water pump issues on some German cars weren't so much that the impeller which was made from Nylon 66 came off but that it became loose on the
shaft and would slip. Antifreeze that was too viscous was also partly blamed for the problem
I would expect an R53 to have a later type plastic impeller that dosen't suffer from the problem.
Chances are you know this. Although there's no gauge there's is a button sequence to show the temperature in the display.
Morning all
Yea I found you can get temp up on dash when you play with buttons, so ran it up this morning with fan hard wired and it's lovely doesn't
blow any water out or pressurise more than likely over cooling it but hay at least it's not boiled up. I have removed old resistor and soldered
wire and heat shrink so I can get the front back on for now and wire and fix new resistor up out the way of the crud and wet when it arrives
Fingers crossed Gary