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Non gluey glue
ReMan - 4/4/16 at 12:25 PM

Yes you can laugh, it was only a matter of time

The Porsche is in bits with passenger window failure. As sure as can be it's the motor, which is about to be ordered.
As per the [picture , the "vapour barrier , door liner is peeled back and fortunately the polywhateveritis did not tear as I pulled it off.
As you can see some adhesive stayed on the door , some came with the liner.
The best I can describe it, though it is 13 years old is like the non setting clear mastic, a cross between clear Bostick and the jelly stuff that keeps your credit cards attached to the letter they come with in the post

So I'm looking for something similar to glue it back on, in a similar non permanent/non destructive way.

Any clues (glues)?
doorfilm
doorfilm


Sam_68 - 4/4/16 at 12:34 PM

How about clear silicone sealant?

Should be sticky enough to hold the polythene in place, but if you get a nice, consistent bead of it, it should peel off a smooth surface like painted metal relatively easily in the future?


gremlin1234 - 4/4/16 at 12:48 PM

hot glue

like
http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/198270-tacwise-plc-476-glue-sticks-cool-melt-pk12.html

or just use bluetak ?

[Edited on 4/4/16 by gremlin1234]


hizzi - 4/4/16 at 01:18 PM

caravan places sell it, made by 3m it looks very much like bluetak on a roll


obfripper - 4/4/16 at 01:30 PM

From vw/tps p/n:AKL 450 005 05 butyl adhesive roll , it's about 30 quid and enough for 2 doors

Dave


r1_pete - 4/4/16 at 02:17 PM

This sort of stuff? seems cheap enough, might try it myself, funnily enough on a Porsche too....


ReMan - 4/4/16 at 03:56 PM

Thnaks guys, I like the idea of the butyl, but it looks a bit "clumsy" for the purpose.
It only needs a 2mm bead or so

Silicone sealant would be a possibility and cheap, I think I'll test a bit of that unless anything else pops up?

[Edited on 4/4/16 by ReMan]


rodgling - 4/4/16 at 04:07 PM

I used sealant for this job on my boxster, think it worked ok


ian locostzx9rc2 - 4/4/16 at 04:24 PM

Silicon sealant will do the job.


nick205 - 4/4/16 at 04:55 PM

Silicone sealant should do it and it's cheap as chips to get as well.


ReMan - 4/4/16 at 05:17 PM

quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
I used sealant for this job on my boxster, think it worked ok

Cool
Was yours the motor or the regulator, cables and stuff?


prawnabie - 4/4/16 at 07:34 PM

We use reels of butyl - plastercine type stuff at work for sticking those back on


Irony - 5/4/16 at 09:58 AM

Car builder Solutions sell the Butyl stuff on a reel. I have some and used it for interior panels. It doesn't set or go off but it is tacky as hell. It sticks to nearly everything


rodgling - 5/4/16 at 07:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
I used sealant for this job on my boxster, think it worked ok

Cool
Was yours the motor or the regulator, cables and stuff?


Regulator on mine, the motor was fine.


Neville Jones - 6/4/16 at 10:37 AM

This stuff will do the job.

My old Disco is full of it, and not looking like leaking yet.

Sticks like the proverbial to anything.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-roof-gutter-sealant-black-310ml/67521?_requestid=92363

Cheers,
Nev.


Badger_McLetcher - 6/4/16 at 01:30 PM

I used Butyl on my Leon doors to stop a leak - works perfectly for 6 months but because it never "sets" it tends to run out of joints over time... at least that's my experience of it.


ReMan - 6/4/16 at 02:13 PM

Cheers again.
Bear in mind I'm sort of trying to replicate whats on there already, so it is "removeable" in the future when the regulator fails!!


MikeRJ - 7/4/16 at 12:54 PM

I hate silicone sealer with a vengeance. It has to be the most inappropriately used substance on the planet, and it's an absolute bugger to remove from most surfaces.

The butyl tape is perfect for this application, sticks like poo to a blanket but you can remove it without resorting to scrappers or special solutions to dissolve it.


Sam_68 - 7/4/16 at 03:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
... it's an absolute bugger to remove from most surfaces.


But not from polythene, or steel with a high quality painted finish, which is what we're talking about in this instance?

The trick is to lay it as a consistent bead of decent thickness, and not to smear it, in which case it will peel off as a single bead, should the need arise.

My experience of old butyl tape is that the tape itself loses its elasticity and so breaks into fragments as you try to peel it off, which can be an equal pain in the ass.


ReMan - 7/4/16 at 04:53 PM

hey, fancy getting so much conversation out of a bead of glue!


I have to say, the way silicone is used to fix everething arounnd the house these days is scary

When we had the storm in 20011? and my house and greenhouse was trashed, the traders siliconed the new panes into the grenhose ratehr than use the clips.
If i'd have noted ate the time I'd have slapped them
Unfortunatly it was some months later so too late to makse a fuss

Anyway, perhaps this (not that I want 10kG!

https://www.gluegunsdirect.com/shop/tecbond-peeltec-210/?search=peelable


gremlin1234 - 7/4/16 at 06:16 PM

when 3m were designing strong adhesive, they found a dust coating made it low tack, - this lead to 'post-it notes'

this might help too
Low Tack - NEC approved exhibition tape 38mm x 50M
http://www.tapes-direct.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=134&products_id=765&zenid=g7v21lhmnu44pn3t15ttnoeis4