Rosco86
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| posted on 1/2/15 at 07:15 PM |
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Looking good mate!
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bart
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| posted on 1/2/15 at 07:38 PM |
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side pods added
hi all been messing around with small detail today drew up the side pods
there not supper accurate but near enough
need to make them thinner to balance the car , but there's a lot to get in
radiator , oil rad , dry sump tank so its going to be a challenge .
sometimes I stand back and think " WHAT HAVE I TAKEN ON" but hey ho on we go 1
 
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bart
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| posted on 1/2/15 at 07:46 PM |
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nose cone
hi again
just getting ready for sunday night , top gear , guy martin , then dragon's den on I player
Sunday nights are watchable again.
any way thought id post a picture of the nose cone , shows built in number plate
FYI , it wont be red I don't think , just easier to model in red , shows all the bumps and dips ( depressing some times )
 
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mark chandler
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| posted on 1/2/15 at 10:32 PM |
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What's the purpose of the pods?
For me it would have curved sides aka brapham BT33 or similar
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bart
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| posted on 1/2/15 at 10:44 PM |
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In answer to side pods why
Radiator
Part of the exhaust , mainly the cat
Oil rad
Battery
7" * 18" high dry sump tank
If I can find a way of getting that lot in without the pods then I totally agree I don't like them either. So big think time
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bart
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| posted on 2/2/15 at 01:06 AM |
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see through view
thought id post a see through view showing rad and dry sump tank
 
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Ivan
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| posted on 2/2/15 at 07:53 AM |
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Looking good - is it a legality to have the number plate standing proud or could you recess it which would look much better.
On my Cobra for instance the number plate is set about one foot back from the mouth of the air intake and high under the nose on the radiator so it is
only really visible if you crouch down - at the time of registering it the law said it had to be visible from the front, not at what eye height. 
[Edited on 2/2/15 by Ivan]
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wylliezx9r
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| posted on 2/2/15 at 01:12 PM |
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I'm speaking as an armchair bodywork designer here LOL, But do you think it would be possible to make the nose area wider, deeper and higher to
balance out the bulk of the back end ? It looks really good but the propotions seem out to me. As always though great work.
[Edited on 2/2/15 by wylliezx9r]
I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered.
George Best
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coozer
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| posted on 2/2/15 at 01:48 PM |
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How about designing the number plate bit so it acts as a dam for the future splitter?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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bart
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| posted on 2/2/15 at 03:01 PM |
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number plate
hmmmmm ! hmmmmm hmmmmmm
whilst having dinner I looked into number plate viewing angles , law not that clear,
I suspect Mr plod might take a view as well , not sure what they could charge you with , but I bet they can think of something.
one part of the regs mentions visible to automatic number plate recognition . so there's probably a very wide interpretation.
still > I have dropped it 10 mm pulled it back 10mm and that as far as I think it should go.
reference "looking dumpy" yes I agree I have made the nose 40mm "less wide" and altered the side pods and its looking much
smaller , also in the view posted I had perspective turned of so it looked worse than it is ( foreshortened )
working later on cockpit infill so that will also make it all look better .
will post some pics later tonight if all goes well.
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bart
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| posted on 2/2/15 at 03:30 PM |
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looking better , ! well slightly
 
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bart
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| posted on 3/2/15 at 06:06 PM |
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side pods resized
hi all
nice day so spent the afternoon outside
cut down the side pods to a more balanced size , they look much better in the real world now
will look to finish these soon.
should be fun never made a fibre glass mould before .
also In case any one misses it I have a never run Quaife reverse box for sale
 
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full description will be in the for sale section
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bart
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| posted on 4/2/15 at 12:51 AM |
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the rear
further getting there
number plate say's it all
 
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ettore bugatti
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| posted on 4/2/15 at 11:03 PM |
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It is getting there.
My tip would be to print on paper the main views (front, side, rear, top and ortho 3D) and sketch with pencil/ paper over it. Another useful exercise
is to draw the wire model lines on it.
This will enable you to translate your ideas better to a3D model.
Enjoy!
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bart
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:43 PM |
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feeling blue
feeling blue !
with rear lights and a few small mods
bit busy with work at the moment so not much work happening
 
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cloudy
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 10:25 PM |
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Liking the blue 
To my eye from above nose looking a bit shovel-like due to the "waist" around the driver - how about increasing the width here and use the
space between the chassis and body for a honeycomb side impact structure?
James
www.warnercars.com
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bart
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 11:32 PM |
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side impact !!!
mmm cloudy !
side impact .
I have already given some thought to that.
due to the chassis structure there is considerably more protection than say a seven type , and I believe the side pods which have a steel frame inside
will add a little . i've looked at the wasted side problem myself got to say i'm not 100% happy with it. might give it further thought.
have to bare in mind one needs ( one sounds very royal ) to get in and out easily , I did think of the pods going down the body a lot further but then
you would need 6ft legs to get in. still thanks for the feed back all comments / thoughts welcome , sometimes makes me think again or stimulates
another idea .
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bart
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| posted on 6/2/15 at 11:10 PM |
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rear wings
added the rear wings not quite finished but gives the idea
trying to find something appropriate but cant looks like ill have to make those as well
any one know where to get 15" wide flat wings quite long
added rear number plate light and altered the lights to comply with iva angle view rules
 
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front wings will be identical but nut so wide wont bother drawing them
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cloudy
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| posted on 9/2/15 at 09:55 PM |
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carbon mods do anything suitable?
easy enough to mould your own - especially as you are doing the body too..
www.warnercars.com
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bart
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| posted on 9/2/15 at 10:10 PM |
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Thinking of doing wings first as a test
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bart
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| posted on 9/2/15 at 10:13 PM |
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Carbon mods don't do wings any more according to there Web site
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cloudy
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| posted on 10/2/15 at 09:48 AM |
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you are right... 
www.warnercars.com
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bart
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| posted on 11/2/15 at 08:23 PM |
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hi all
no picture tonight as I have only been doing cad work and to the eye there not a lot of difference to the last post. just minor design change , takes
time but not a lot to show.
I have had some prices for 3d 5 axis milling ,and that's put that to bed , its far to expensive ( £500 just for nose cone ) so it looks like its
going to be 3 d skeleton and foam infill and lots of glue , filler , sanding and swearing .
have decide to make the moulds combined > front nose cone and front top together .Then 2 sides in one fixture / buck as the middle portion would
be symmetrical . I will post a picture of that one but it looks good in my head ! and the rear top and rear panel together.
other reasons for this is the join lines are common and it saves having to try and match moulds .
I will keep you all informed with pictures as I design the mould skeletons .
so going to try and get 3 to 4 hours on it tonight lets see where I get to .
im going to build the moulds in order to copy slit lines as well
front cone
front top
side left side right
rear top
rear back
also on top of these I will be doing the side pods and 2 wing bucks
and a cock pit / dash board surround last.
I recon 3 days the lot !!!!!
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cloudy
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| posted on 11/2/15 at 10:43 PM |
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3 weeks you mean ?!
www.warnercars.com
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bart
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| posted on 11/2/15 at 11:09 PM |
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3 to 4 months minimum I recon ( was just a wind up before , just checking any one was reading ! LOL )
you have to wait 2-3 weeks for the moulds to go off before you can take a moulding or so I have read ! ( east coast fibreglass )
which will stop me making the next mould in the sequence .
in truth I recon 4-5 months due to work to pay the bills as well , and i'm old and n- - - - - erd
mind is willing body gives up after about 4 hours
the other problem is physical space recon I can only make one big combined mould at a time. and there's 3 big ones 5 medium
and the mess , going to have to sheet the rest of the garage off .
last problem is temperature all the materials i'm looking at are minimum 18 deg c . so winter is out which means no laminating of moulds or
parts till at least April ( with a heater ) they say must be at 18 deg + for 24 hrs so I don't fancy trying to do ambient +20 deg for 24hrs ,
much rather try say 12 deg ambient boosted up to 20 deg with a couple of say oil filled rads , don't fancy leaving cheap ass fan heaters on when
i'm not there .
if any one knows different then i'm all ears
I recon 2 more weeks mould ribs design ( i'm busy with paying work as well )
2 weeks for 2d cnc routing
then start mould manufacture from there .
started on front mould design tonight
extended all the mating surfaces of the fibre glass to allow run off and will now finish 90 deg lips to make the mould stiff
 
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