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So this is how it started. I built a table out of some ply wood and 75mm x50mm. The tubes for the frame are 25mm x 25mm and are 1.6 mm thick
Hi Guys
My name is Derk. I live in Johannesburg, South Africa with my beautiful wife Katie.
I've been building a Haynes roadster for the last four months or so and have learned so much by reading other peoples builds on this forum.
I'll post some of the pics of my build up that will hopefully be of help to other builders.
[Edited on 17/8/14 by Derkjohn]
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So this is how it started. I built a table out of some ply wood and 75mm x50mm. The tubes for the frame are 25mm x 25mm and are 1.6 mm thick
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The nose section being built up. The book was a bit confusing on the developed length I thought. But that might just have been my ignorance 
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More tubes being tacked together
This is the donor vehicle I bought a few weeks into the build. It is a 1990 2L Ford Sapphire (I think these are exclusive to South Africa) but all the
suspension and drive train components are the same as the Sierra.
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Some of the parts that I stripped out
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The rear brakes are drums, but I have since bought a 1991 3L (essex) Sapphire and will be using the discs from that
[Edited on 17/8/14 by Derkjohn]
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Making the rear shock and roll bar supports
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Trail fitting the engine
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I decided to weld the diff mounts directly onto the chassis. Simplify and add lightness
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Originally posted by Derkjohn
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The nose section being built up. The book was a bit confusing on the developed length I thought. But that might just have been my ignorance
Thats great Derk but can we see pictures of Katie please 
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Originally posted by Slimy38
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Originally posted by Derkjohn
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The nose section being built up. The book was a bit confusing on the developed length I thought. But that might just have been my ignorance
The nose section in the book is wrong, from memory one of the measurements is too short and the angles don't quite make sense. So I'm not surprised you were confused!!
Have you looked at the amendment that are on the Haynes forum;
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2430
You're probably already a fair bit through but it might still be worth looking at them.
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I decided to lower the back of the transmission tunnel to give me some more elbow space.
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Here is what I did for the pedals. I figured I would try to get the standard Sierra pedals to fit to save the effort of building them from from
scratch. So far it seems to be working great! I hope I don't run into trouble later on.
quote:
Originally posted by maccmike
Thats great Derk but can we see pictures of Katie please
welcome Derk, great work so far keep us posted and good luck with the build, don't be shy to ask questions as there is a wealth of knolage on
here, oh by the way we like pics
gary
welcome Derk, great work so far keep us posted and good luck with the build, don't be shy to ask questions as there is a wealth of knolage on
here, oh by the way we like pics
gary
Nice to see a scratch build these days. Be warned making one change to the book can have so many knock on changes down the road.
Like have you left enough room for the hand brake cables / Fuel pipes and electrics in the rear of the tunnel ?
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Making up the suspension brackets. I managed to make 16 of them only to realise the were 10mm to short. 
Once I had re-cut them again I made a
little jig to help me bend them at the correct length.
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The floors are made from 1mm mild steal. I put two diagonal bend lines on each to help prevent the drumming effect once welded. This worked well for
the front section, however I didn't bend the back as that's where the seat supports go. I ended up having to heat shrink the back section to
get it tight.
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Radiator mountings. I realised that the books radiator is mounted upside down 
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I'm making my scuttle out of steel and aluminium plate.
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Red Oxide!
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This is where I'm at now. I painted the frame with red oxide followed by a product called Raptor liner by U-pol. Its usually used to line pick-up
truck loading bays but I thinned it down and applied it with a standard spray gun, except on the floors where I used a textured effect spray gun.
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Nice to see a scratch build these days. Be warned making one change to the book can have so many knock on changes down the road.
Like have you left enough room for the hand brake cables / Fuel pipes and electrics in the rear of the tunnel ?
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Here's a bit of info on the engine. Its a 2.0 L pinto. The 2.9 cosworth pistons that seem quite popular in the UK aren't available in SA as
we only ever had the Ford v6 in the Essex version. So the pistons are just 1mm oversize standard pistons. I've had the flywheel lightened and the
bottom end balanced. Other than that it's stock. On the head side of things I've opted for a 288 deg camshaft and I've gas-flowed the
head with the help of David Vissard's book. The plan is to run a set of R1 throttle bodies that I have. They are the ones that still have the
vacuum operated venturi but also run fuel injectors. Apparently they only came out for a year or so after which the R1's ran normal throttle
bodies.
[Edited on 17/8/14 by Derkjohn]
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These are the seats I'm using. I found them in a beach buggy in a scrap yard. They were slightly to wide, but as they are made from steel tubing
I was able to bend the edges in and make them fit I then had them re-covered for R1700 (90£) Not bad eh?
Looking like a good build there Derk, keep up the good work.
Get Katie to sit in the car and make the brum brum noises and post the pic
Good work Derk, where did you the get the seats recovered? I need the same done to my pair. That seems like a good price.
Where are you in Jo'burg? I am in Fourways area, i just got a seven 3 weeks ago and am slowly getting it up to spec.
Keith
quote:
Originally posted by Slater
Good work Derk, where did you the get the seats recovered? I need the same done to my pair. That seems like a good price.
Where are you in Jo'burg? I am in Fourways area, i just got a seven 3 weeks ago and am slowly getting it up to spec.
Keith
Thanks i will call him tomorrow
I've managed to get a bit more done over the last few weeks.
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The engine, diff and gearbox has been fitted.
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Front wishbones being made up.
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Front suspension complete 
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The brakes are from a 3.0L Sierra and are slightly larger than the 2.0l brakes. I wanted 3.0 discs as these have discs on the rear opposed to the 2.0l
which has drums. And yes, I couldn't resist painting the callipers red
[Edited on 12/10/14 by Derkjohn]
I've been thinking about re-designing the rear uprights for my Haynes Roadster. The book uprights seem unnecessarily complicated and heavy
compared to other designs I have seen. I've drawn up some plans for some uprights which should be a lot easier to make up. The suspension
geometry remains the same as the original uprightsI would value your opinions and ideas on these.
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Hi Derk.
Me and my borther have just started building our Haynes Roadster, and I'm thinking about a re-designed rear upright similar to what you are
thinking, and for the same reasons.
My first thought was that the sides (between the upper and lower a-arms mounting points) should be one continuous piece without welds, for better
safety. Then I also thought that it should be able to design the upright with fewer parts.
This is what I came up with, but we haven't decided which design we should use... The benefit with the original design is that the cross-section
of a circle is stiffer (flexes less) than the cross-section of a sqaure.
