scoop
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| posted on 18/8/07 at 02:22 PM |
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Alternative Pinto wires
Its starting to look like i just cant get a seven pin amplifier so, without one is there an alternative way to wire it up?
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bob
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| posted on 18/8/07 at 02:46 PM |
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is this it
linky
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bob
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| posted on 18/8/07 at 02:48 PM |
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sorry just realised this is for V6 but it may well be the same part.
At the breakers have you tried looking in any transits ? the pinto engined transits used the same ign amp module.
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Peteff
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| posted on 18/8/07 at 02:50 PM |
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What are the connections at the distributor?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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snippy
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 posted on 18/8/07 at 04:51 PM |
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Found this in the garage. Is this the one? It`s off a 2.0i Sierra `G` plate.
Nick
 
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James
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| posted on 18/8/07 at 08:52 PM |
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Do you really want a 7 pin amp?
If you've got the 'normal' sierra setup people use (from the 1.6 carb'd Sierra) then it's 6 pin.
See this thread:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=18515&page=&contribmessage=none
It's amp 'A' in the 5th post down.
Hope that helps,
James
[Edited on 18/8/07 by James]
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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scoop
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| posted on 18/8/07 at 09:24 PM |
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The part from the donor car loom, which was 2 litre f reg saphire, has a plug with seven female connections.
The plug that goes to the dizzy, and the dizzy come to that, has three wires.
I dont know what the part looks like cos being a plonker i left it in the donor which is long gone.
I will widen my search to include Transits. Ta
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scoop
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 12:14 AM |
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So i cant get round not having a ford amp then? There arent any after market products that anyone is aware of without going Megasquirt?
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 08:36 AM |
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I have the correct 6 pin amp that works on these cars as part of my ignition set up that is for sale. The amp and plug config is a T shape.
i also have one of the inline ones as pictured above but this is off a hall effect ignition set up which doesnt work unless you have the ECU etc to go
with it. Ive no idea how to make the hall effect set up work (iirc needs crank trigger input etc).
Im confused as to what set up you are trying to get working and what bit you need. The dizzy i had before that goes with the in line amp had the plug
on the dizzy body and 2 connections (hall effect).
The dizzy i have used successfully has 3 wires and a plug on the end (inductive).
did all of your bits come off a running donor or are they a collection of parts that should work but not tried and tested together?
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 08:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scoop
So i cant get round not having a ford amp then? There arent any after market products that anyone is aware of without going Megasquirt?
Yes - you can fit a points system for now. These are of course not electronic but you may find one with luminition or similar fitted. At a later date
you can switch to Megajolt etc.
<<Shameless Plug>> other option is to buy my full ignition system that has the plugs / wiring etc. I may be able to do a deal on it. I
used it with a 38DGAS carb (also for sale soon) and the car ran well. Only removed to go MJLJ and bike carbs.
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scoop
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 11:19 AM |
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Darren, as must be glaringly obvious by now i dont have a f******g clue what im doing with the electrics.
To try and help you out; yes all the bits came off of the same f reg 2 litre gls sierra saphire which i must have left the original amp in.
I therefore am trying to run together the 2 litre engine on Bogg Bros R1 carbs matched to a Premier Wiring loom.
The dizzy has a plug on it with three pins. The connector from the old loom for the dizzy has three pins.
The connector to the missing amp has seven female connections in it.
The car did run an ecu with the vacume pipe on it but the dizzy does not have a connection for it and neither does the carb that came off of the car
which i still have. God i hope that helps
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 12:26 PM |
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LOL - nice admission. Sorry if i sounded a bit condescending.
Just in case ive missed something - is the donor engine Pinto (SOHC) or the later DOHC? i got one of the last Pinto injection engines that had a hall
effect dizzy prefitted but no ECU's or wiring etc. I junked this for the system i eventually fitted (and am now selling). My limited research at
the time led me to conclude that the last of the Pinto injections came with ECU controlled hall effect electronic and the earlier ones (probably carb
type) had the easier to fit inductive electronic. Before that was the points type systems.
It sounds like you have a later (newer) type electronic set up. Without any direct proof it sounds like it may be a hall effect system - perhaps. What
leads me to think this is that it has an ECU. Mine is from the earlier car and just has the amp - no ECU. The amp is definitely only 6 wires.
I have one of the other amps at home from a hall effect DOHC but again seem to think this is also 6 wires.
A pic of what you have may help better diagnosis. You are not looking for the plug for the ECU are you rather than the amp? I seem to think this will
have more than 7 connections though.
You will probs find that the ECU was wired into the car. Some wires would go to the amp from which 2 would go to the dizzy (3rd on dizzy will be
earth). The vacuum connection into ECU is the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and may give it the engine load input to alter the timing (i think a
later version used a crank trigger input but may be wrong) - again this leads me to think it is hall effect which can be a bugger to retrofit into
another car.
The system that most of us have used is far easier to wire up in comparison. Both James and Bob have posted good wiring posts for this (which is what
i followed).
Does this help or confuse further?
The easiest system to fit will be a points based one but i had it in my head that i wanted electronic hence the route i took. It wasnt cheap for me as
i bought a brand new dizzy and sourced the other bits seperately.
[Edited on 21/8/07 by DarrenW]
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scoop
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 02:14 PM |
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Looks like im gonna need a different plugs and a dizzy. I gettin fed up trying to sort the amp out.
My engine was sohc with a single, twin choke carb.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 02:38 PM |
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ive taken the liberty of taking some pics of my bits to see if it helps. Maybe it will help you identify what you have. Id hate you to buy something
else if what you have might work. Not sure how you will be able to cross reference to known ford parts though.
Pic 1 is dizzy and amp.
 
Rescued attachment 21082007200.jpg
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 02:41 PM |
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Pic 2 is the top off the dizzy.
Unlike the hall effect set up which uses the ECU to advance the ignition, this type uses the vacuum advance on the dizzy itself. I recall the problem
with using a hall effect dizzy without ECU is that the car should run but it will be at a fixed advance. Does your dizzy have a vac advance unit
attached or only a vacuum pipe into the ECU itself? of course the complication is that at sometime in its past the donor could have had a hybrid of
parts fitted unless you know its history.
 
Rescued attachment 21082007201.jpg
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scoop
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 05:41 PM |
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There is is no vacum on the dizzy and there wasnt one on the carb either so i cant think where the ecu connected!! Where would you connect the vacum
on the dizzy to if i had that one?
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bob
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 06:24 PM |
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I connected my vacum from the same dizzy straight to the weber 32/36 twin choke carb base.
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scoop
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 07:37 PM |
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But what do you do when you have bike carbs?
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 10:34 PM |
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the dizzy vac advance only operates at the lower rev range. At higher revs the weights take over. So for bike carbs you can either forget the vac, fit
a modified advance curve dizzy (H+H etc) or go for MJLJ etc.
Did the pics help? Do you have some of yours?
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/8/07 at 10:45 PM |
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This is too good to miss - id grab it if i was you.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72766
You will need a few other bits but poss to complete for not a lot of money. FatboyDave will do you a good manifold and may respace the carbs if you
ask hin nice enough.
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scoop
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| posted on 22/8/07 at 12:51 PM |
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Im having enough trouble getting it running as is without starting on megajolt mate
Can you imagine how many threads i would have to start to get that working
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DarrenW
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| posted on 22/8/07 at 01:01 PM |
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Honestly - have faith Fitting a MJLJ system from the start isnt as hard as you might think.
My box was easier as it has EDIS built in, but without this its just a few extra wires.
i found the Kimmins megajolt and EDIS very easy. Trickiest bit was fitting trigger wheel and VR sensor, but they are just mechanical bits. i fitted
the box under the scuttle in cockpit area. The wires to the box were just plugs. One went to coil pack (a plug). Another to VR sensor (another plug).
Live and neutral. Load software into laptop and connect via USB etc to the MJLJ box. Maps are easy to get hold of as well.
You can go for 2D map at first and later once TPS is fitted switch over to 3D mapping. All in all its not really harder than std ignition - just
different.
No need to reply though - i know what you mean. There is so much to get your head around when building that sometimes you have to make executive
decisions and forge ahead.
As said before once you have the correct bits fitting the std electronic should be quite straight forward - i managed it so it must be easy!
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scoop
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| posted on 22/8/07 at 08:01 PM |
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Guys, especially Darren, many thanks for all your help. Im getting myhead round it all now. Looking for an amp plug and new non points dizzy now
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