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Author: Subject: IS this SVA proof ?
marcotuinenburg

posted on 18/5/06 at 09:42 PM Reply With Quote
IS this SVA proof ?

I'm building an MK Indy with fireblade engine and was wondering if this is SVA proof ?
The way i'm working with the loom at this moment is that good enough to get the SVA ? Rescued attachment DSC00273.JPG
Rescued attachment DSC00273.JPG

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ReMan

posted on 18/5/06 at 10:08 PM Reply With Quote
Once the battery tray is on it won't be visible will it.
Wrap and secure what is visible well

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craig1410

posted on 18/5/06 at 11:45 PM Reply With Quote
Hi,
Another comment I would make is to ensure that you don't have wires going over sharp metal edges. Regardless of whether it passes SVA, it isn't going to be long before the sharp metal edge cuts the wire and lets the smoke out. You need to make sure you keep the smoke inside the wires...

You may also find it easier to secure your wires if you route them inside some spiralwrap or flexible trunking rather than having loads of parallel wires. It looks nice the way you have them but you would be better to wrap them into a more conventional "loom" if you can.

Apart from that it looks good!
Cheers,
Craig.

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BKLOCO

posted on 19/5/06 at 04:16 AM Reply With Quote
I would not personally used the "chocholate strips"
Not realy anything to do with SVA it's just that screw terminations ars susceptable to vibration.
Having said that SVA inspectors like to see construction carried out using components similar to those used by mainstreem car manufacturers.
I can't remember the last time I saw a car wired like that.
Very neat though





Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!!

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shortie

posted on 19/5/06 at 09:00 AM Reply With Quote
Like Brian said Iwould steer awayfrom using the choc blocks, they look very neat but if you consider there is enough vibration in my Indyblade to make the tunnel top small socket heads come undone completely then there is enough to make the screws on the choc blocks come loose.

Just connect each wire individually and then put shrink wrap round each and then conduit round them all and secure to the wiring panel with a cable tie in a fixing base, will look just as neat.

HTH,
Rich.

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02GF74

posted on 20/5/06 at 09:14 AM Reply With Quote
screw terminals hmmmmmmmm

I think you can buy blocks with the tags for push on spade terminals, see VWP maybe?

Think of the excess weight - put spade plug/socket on the wires and tie the together.

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marcotuinenburg

posted on 22/5/06 at 05:36 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the advice.
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tks

posted on 23/5/06 at 09:02 AM Reply With Quote
i agree

it looks nice and is very suitable for systems where you often change the setup, or atleast you want be able todo so.

Like disco equipment (DIY)

for a car i just would solder every terminal to each other and then heat schrink the connecting. When efferything is done, test the loom if it works, then turn every module and tape it all up!

in the original loom they use huge pieces of plastic, looks like the same stuf that you use to make a small pool for your fishes in the garden. the foil.

i completely undid mine and tookaway everything i didn´t needed.

Then i reused the same materials and taped everything up.

sow i would just solder its the best connection you can get. and one that would come lose by vibration.

Tks

p.s. it does look like you have the scuttle reversed is this always the way with the indy???



[Edited on 23/5/06 by tks]





The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.

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