tims31
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 02:03 AM |
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Will this work - Furore LED Headlights Wiring?
Having bought the 5 ¾ inch LED headlights from Furore Products, I have been looking at how I am going to wire these into my existing setup and get the
most from them but need some advice to double check what I have planned. The headlights have a Main and dip beam but also a Halo ring which can be
used as a DRL / Side light and this switches to an indicator function if the DRL halo is powered on.
For information, the headlight units have a 3 pin H4 plug on them for the Main Beam, Dip Beam and Earth (Shown on the left of the diagram.)
Also they have three other wires, Red used for the Halo DRL/sidelight, a brown wire which if powered stops the Halo demo mode (gets brighter and then
flashes/rotates) and a green for the indicator.
For the indicator function to work, the Halo DRL needs to have power.
What I would like to do is have the indicator function available when the side lights/headlights are off but also when on sidelights and dip/main beam
(lights on) but to do this the Halo needs to be powered.
I also plan on using the Halo as a sidelight too so I can have the sidelight on without having to switch the ignition on which I wouldn’t be able to
do if I just have it from a switched live from the ignition.
When I had my loom made I had wires installed for DRLs which would then switch off as per IVA regs but I didn’t use.
Basically what I would like to do is use the wire in my loom which was for DRLs (Orange wire) to power the Halo/DRL (Red wire on the headlight) when
the ignition is on and the headlights/side lights are off but then also connect the side light feed to the same Red wire which will then power the
Halo when I switch the side lights / headlights on.
In Theory the relay in the system which was supposed to switch the DRLs off when the headlights/sidelights are switched on should allow the Halo to be
powered when the lights are off and then the side light feed which switches the relay over should then take over powering the Halo. The wiring down to
the headlights is already installed so this would be the easiest option without having to run additional wires.
 
Description
Does this sound like it will work okay and do I need to fit a diode to the Orange or side light feed just in case?
Basically I think this should work but is there anything else I need to consider????
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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loggyboy
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 07:53 AM |
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You dont want ro connect the halo flasher to the sides. Thats a show only thing.
And i wouldn't have sides on switched earth as thats not going to help if you park in a dark road or similar.
[Edited on 21-1-18 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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obuckle
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 12:14 PM |
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I do not have the knowledge my self to say if this would work or not. Russ is away at them moment but returns at the end of the week, I will get him
to have a look as he has a much better understanding of the lights
Furore Formula Car - the only two seater modern Formula Car lookalike head to furorecars.co.uk
Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at
http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
https://furoreproducts.co.uk/custom-brake-hose
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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obfripper
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 02:37 PM |
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Are you aiming to be mot compliant or just functional while driving?
For driving only, your wiring diagram requires diodes on the sidelight feed from loom and the drl feed from loom to prevent backfeeding of the
respective circuits, iirc something like a 1N5406 which is max 3a should suffice.
For mot compliance, a circuit that powers up the drl feed when the hazards are activated will be needed so they can operate with the ignition off.
This will need to be permanently on while the hazards are operating and off at all other times.
You may have a feed from your hazard switch/relay depending on how it is setup, or need a latching circuit with cutoff delay to cover the switching
hazard signal while operating.
This feed will also need to be run through a diode for the same reasons.
Dave
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tims31
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 05:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
You dont want ro connect the halo flasher to the sides. Thats a show only thing.
Yeah I understand that, thats why you have to connect the brown wire as this stops the show effect
quote:
And i wouldn't have sides on switched earth as thats not going to help if you park in a dark road or similar.
Dont understand what you mean by this. The side lights feed is from the main loom to my current headlights, the light feed to the relay is what is
used to switch the relay using the interior illumination. Why would what I have not help on a dark road as the feed is what is currently used to power
my sidelights?
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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tims31
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 05:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by obfripper
Are you aiming to be mot compliant or just functional while driving?
For driving only, your wiring diagram requires diodes on the sidelight feed from loom and the drl feed from loom to prevent backfeeding of the
respective circuits, iirc something like a 1N5406 which is max 3a should suffice.
For mot compliance, a circuit that powers up the drl feed when the hazards are activated will be needed so they can operate with the ignition off.
This will need to be permanently on while the hazards are operating and off at all other times.
You may have a feed from your hazard switch/relay depending on how it is setup, or need a latching circuit with cutoff delay to cover the switching
hazard signal while operating.
This feed will also need to be run through a diode for the same reasons.
Dave
Ideally I would like to be fully compliant but it seems to be a rather complicated solution to get the hazards to work with all the power off. I will
probably get it working like this and keep my original indicators too so I have them for the hazards too for MOT time.
Would I be okay to have my current indicators still active as well as the ones in the headlights or should I just swap at MOT time? I have an
electronic flasher relay.
[Edited on 21/1/18 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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loggyboy
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 07:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tims31
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
You dont want ro connect the halo flasher to the sides. Thats a show only thing.
Yeah I understand that, thats why you have to connect the brown wire as this stops the show effect
quote:
And i wouldn't have sides on switched earth as thats not going to help if you park in a dark road or similar.
Dont understand what you mean by this. The side lights feed is from the main loom to my current headlights, the light feed to the relay is what is
used to switch the relay using the interior illumination. Why would what I have not help on a dark road as the feed is what is currently used to power
my sidelights?
Without wirig diagram for them it's hard to advise, but my assumption would be of you feed it with power ot will turn it on.
Your feeding the relay with a switched live, so they will only work when ignition is on. I would want to be able to leave car switched off but still
have sidelights switchable.
Mistral Motorsport
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obfripper
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| posted on 21/1/18 at 10:21 PM |
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I have noticed audi a1 and bmw i3 have extra indicators, sidelamps and stop lamps at the rear that only operate while the boot is opened ( i do check
them on mot but have not had dvsa clarification as whether it is neccesary), the current mot criteria state only a failure for less that the minimum
number of indicators fitted - so you should be fine with more than 1 set.
The wording in the new manual is different and will be applicable from 20th May, however it should be acceptable the same.
The new mot regs regarding drl operation only affect vehicles post march 2018 so are of no consequence to you, also you may find that the test
sequence your mot tester follows may mean the hazards will work acceptably if your drls are wired as sidelamps.
The current draw of the led indicator/drl combo isn't very high, so the relay should be fine. I assume you have a single relay for indicator and
hazard functions which are usually good for 80w (7a) total switching.
Dave
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tims31
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| posted on 22/1/18 at 03:12 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Your feeding the relay with a switched live, so they will only work when ignition is on. I would want to be able to leave car switched off but still
have sidelights switchable.
I think I probably confused things where I labelled it up.
My side lights do work when I switch them on without the need for the key in the ignition.
The relay in the diagram is wired at the dashboard and was only supposed to switch the DRL feed off when the side/headlights were switched on and as I
haven't used this for my DRLs I though I could use it as a way of providing a switched live feed when the ignition is switched on and the
side/headlights are either on or off and use the wiring that is currently run to the front of the car.
The switched Live at the relay will feed the DRL feed line but that is why I also had the sidelight line at the bottom which is the way to power the
DRL/Halo without the switched live.
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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tims31
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| posted on 22/1/18 at 03:20 AM |
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Having looked at my diagram I have come up with another idea which I think would allow me to feed power to the DRL/Halo when the ignition is switched
on and also when the side lights are switched on without the ignition so powering them as side lights too without the key in the ignition.
By also adding another changeover relay I think I can remove the need for the diodes and have the relay switch the feed from the DRL/Halo indicator
when the ignition is on to my currently installed indicator which should then work with my hazard switch.
Does this seem right?
 
Description
[Edited on 22/1/18 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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russbost
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| posted on 22/1/18 at 11:13 AM |
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I haven't actually checked your latest dig all through as it simply looks like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut!
To simplify things let's just say you've already connected the brown & red wires together so the lights are "out of" demo
mode, let's say the remaining single wire is red. We can now forget about ALL of the wiring with the exception of 2 wires, the feed for the halo
& the feed for the indicator.
To further simplify things, there is no legal requirement to have the indicator halo working for MoT with Ign. off as you already have a full set of
the standard indicators to fulfill the hazards requirement, I also cannot see any reason, safety or otherwise, why there is any significant benefit to
having the indicator halo's working with the ignition off.
So, you now have your orange wire which is ignition live & your sidelight wire which is live whenever the sidelights are, connect both wires
through separate diodes to the red wire to the halo & connect your indicator wire to the indicator halo (green/black on your dig) - that's
it, you don't need anything else.
I'm very much an advocate of KISS, the more there is to go wrong, the more WILL go wrong, plus, I would add, diodes are solid state &
extremely reliable & cost pennies, relays are not solid state, are prone to water ingress/damp conditions (many kitcars will stand for several
months in winter in a damp, unheated environment) &, I find, highly unreliable, you don't need relays as there is no high current
involved
If you really want to have the indicator halo's available with ign. & sidelights off then just add a 3rd switch, also with a diode, which
has a permanent live from the fusebox feeding it, when/if you want indicators/hazards available with ign. off then just turn that extra switch on to
feed the red wire, that will bring the DRL halo on & make the indicator available when fed
I'm no electronics expert, but I can't see any reason why that wouldn't work, it's dead simple & relies on switches &
solid state components rather than relays
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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tims31
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| posted on 22/1/18 at 03:24 PM |
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Okay Russ, I was just trying to make it compliant by having the hazards available without the need for wiring in a separate switch/supply.
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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russbost
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| posted on 22/1/18 at 04:02 PM |
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Sorry, hope you didn't think I was being rude, & your solution may well work, as said, I've not checked it thro' & in fact I
wouldn't trust myself to go thro' it & be certain that it wouldn't create a problem somewhere with feeding a circuit it
shouldn't under a particular combination/set of circumstances - hence why I was trying to simplify things! 
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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B33fy
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| posted on 22/1/18 at 07:29 PM |
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https://flic.kr/p/GkRoF9
My solution above using separate sidelights under the main units. Side lights and hazards come on without ignition then ignition on and then I run
through the lights. Used one latching relay. Though totally agree with Russ it’s temperamental if doing it again I wouldn’t bother.
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tims31
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| posted on 23/1/18 at 11:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by russbost
Sorry, hope you didn't think I was being rude, & your solution may well work, as said, I've not checked it thro' & in fact I
wouldn't trust myself to go thro' it & be certain that it wouldn't create a problem somewhere with feeding a circuit it
shouldn't under a particular combination/set of circumstances - hence why I was trying to simplify things!
Not a problem. I will use the diodes but was just a bit unsure that they would protect the lamps fully. Also wanted to make sure I had indicaators for
the hazards when it came to MOT time.
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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