RazMan
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 10:33 AM |
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I imagine there must be a few people out there with the kit neccessary to do this - failing that, some stripboard would probably do it (although not
quite as professional looking)
It will of course depend on the number of switches in your dash array - I'm aiming for:
1. Engine Start
2. Fan switch
3. Fan speed (use aircon switch)
4. Rear Fog light
5. Washer jets
6. Noz 
7. Traction control
8. Launch control
9. Door release (driver)
10. Door release (passenger)
Maybe this is a little ott for most builders, but I would say that a module built for 5 switches should cover most people's requirements. If
more switches are installed you can always add another module accordingly.
[Edited on 14-1-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 10:35 AM |
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Only fan and rear fog for me, but I intend to fit push button start after SVA.
Rgds
Richie
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 02:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
I like the idea of using the pot to adjust the "dim" night mode, would it also adjust the "full bright" when activated?
As shown, the birghtness adjustment is only for the night illumination, it dosen't affect the full brightness when activated (this is fixed by
the resistor choices).
If this is something that you would like, then I could post a circuit for it.
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RichieC
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 02:57 PM |
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Id definately fancy a a circuit. I reckon fitted into a nice little case with the rheostat on the outside would be a superb little addition.
Im happy for the night illumination to be fairly bright as long as it doesnt scare the sh** out of you when the fan kicks in at night
Any help greatly appreciated.
Kind Rgds
Richie
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RazMan
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 10:58 PM |
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I've just ordered all my switches from zxrlocost so I am committed now
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 11:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Id definately fancy a a circuit. I reckon fitted into a nice little case with the rheostat on the outside would be a superb little addition.
Im happy for the night illumination to be fairly bright as long as it doesnt scare the sh** out of you when the fan kicks in at night
Any help greatly appreciated.
Kind Rgds
Richie
Ok, I have a circuit designed in my head, but not had a chance to draw it yet. Will try to have a go tommorow lunchtime at work. It's really
no more complex than the circuits I drew earlier.
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RichieC
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 09:55 AM |
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Thatll be much appreciated Mike thanks
Richie
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 10:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Im happy for the night illumination to be fairly bright as long as it doesnt scare the sh** out of you when the fan kicks in at night
Richie, If I understand you correctly, will your fan switch be an indicator that the fan kicks in (as normal from the sender unit) and also be a
manual override? It is worth bearing in mind that these switches have a 'normal open' and 'normal closed' position so you can
easily do this
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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RichieC
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 10:54 AM |
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Yep, thats correct. The standard switch from the MNR loom does this so it shouldnt be too tricky to achieve.
Rgds
Rich
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 12:41 PM |
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Here we go:
This uses two voltage regulators, an LM317T and an LM337T (ignore the LT1585, CAD package didn't have the proper symbol). Both are cheap and
readily available parts. The LM337T is actualy a negative voltage regulator, but is used "upside down" in this circuit to adjust the
voltage at the LED's cathode.
The other regulator, the LM317T is a conventional positive regulator, that provides a fixed positive voltage at the LED anode when the lights are
turned on.
Both regulators are adjustable, and work like this:
VR1 controls overall brightness. This controls both the night illumination brightness, and the "activated" brightness of the LED.
VR2 controls only the night illumination brightness (in conjuction with VR1). Think of this control as a "contrast" control, it
effectively controls the difference between night illumination and "activated" brightness. This pot would likely want to be a preset
device that is set only one when you first install the system. The other one could be mounted on the dash for night time brightness setting.
This circuit only requires 2 extra diodes for each LED, which would probably be more convienient to build into the loom near the switches rather than
put on a separate PCB to save the amount of wires needed.
Any comments are welcomed.
[Edited on 23/6/07 by MikeRJ]
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 12:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Comments are welcomed
My comment is WOW
That looks as though it will do everything we've been looking at in this thread.
Nicely done Mike 
Now all we need is some enterprising individual to suggest that he makes up these pcb's in exchange for beer vouchers 
[Edited on 17-1-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 01:11 PM |
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I just answered a PM to Richie about this. I'm only too happy to provide help in circuit design etc. and I can probably get a PCB layout
knocked up, but I just don't have enough free time due to a young daughter and work comitments to organise group buys etc.
What I will do is knock up a quick 'proof of concept' prototype on stripboard just to be sure this works as intended, and list the
required part numbers from RS/Farnell etc.
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 01:23 PM |
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Thats great Mike - much appreciated
If you could post a pic of the stripboard when its done, it would probably give most of us the courage to continue your good work.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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RichieC
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 05:16 PM |
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Thanks for your time and the U2U Mike.
Id be happy to crack on with a strip board once Ive seen one and if you can supply maplin/RS part numbers that would be superb. As far as a full PCB
goes, Id need someone to do that for me as I dont have any equipment to do it.
Id prefer to have all of the components located in one case, to avoid much modification to the loom. However, I just realised now, the resistors are
already incorporated into the savage switches? So the only external components would be the diodes I guess.
Also, are D5 D6 and D8 zener diodes?
Im going to have a look again at the circuit and put it into a 2 way setup as I only have fog and fan, although I expect to add a push start at some
point (which ideally would just be lit when the ignition is on but the engine is off.....god how these things get out of hand)
Thanks again
Kind Rgds
Richie
[Edited on 17/1/06 by RichieC]
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 06:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
...I expect to add a push start at some point (which ideally would just be lit when the ignition is on but the engine is off.....god how these things
get out of hand)
I didn't think about that either! I guess that will be connected to a switched (ignition) supply to light up before all the others do,
regardless of lights. I need a lie down now
I've got a normal sized start button if you need one Rich - I've just ordered the slightly larger version.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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RichieC
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 06:51 PM |
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The options are endless eh I think its a nice touch that if the engine stalls, the start button lights up. So when pressed or engine isnt running
(not entirely sure the best way to derive that) it lights up full, otherwise off or dim with the others.
I hadnt realised there were two sizes of start button, only Start and Engine Start. Did they change the size when they changed that?
Ill have it off you either way mate, Im not sure if I want to do it before SVA or leave it until after. I guess if the ignition key is still there
theyll be happy so itll be key on and either rotate to start or press the button.
Good discussion this one, good fun playing with electronics, if only Id remembered more from school and my previous job
Kind Rgds
Richie
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 06:59 PM |
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I know the feeling - I went through college and got 12 City & Guilds in telecommunications but now I have to rack my brain to think about simple
electronic theory.
It was 30 years ago though
There is a normal sized 'start' and a slightly larger 'engine start' I just liked the idea of the bigger button but I've
still got to think of a layout for the dash.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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RichieC
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 07:01 PM |
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Well if youre wanting rid of the Start, Ill have it mate.
Just U2U me with details
Kind Rgds
Rich
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stevebubs
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 07:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
The options are endless eh I think its a nice touch that if the engine stalls, the start button lights up.
I did this by wiring the illumination in-line with the alternator warning light...
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RichieC
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 07:10 PM |
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Ah yeh of course that would work.
Thanks mate
Rich
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 09:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
I did this by wiring the illumination in-line with the alternator warning light...
Of course!! [light bulb moment]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 09:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Thanks for your time and the U2U Mike.
I However, I just realised now, the resistors are already incorporated into the savage switches?
Yes, those are repesented by resistors R2, R3 and R4 on the circuit. I don't know the actual values so I guessed. Not really critical for this
circuit anyway.
quote:
Also, are D5 D6 and D8 zener diodes?
No, they are the actual LEDs within the savage switches, along with their current limiting resistors R2-R4.
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RichieC
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 10:05 PM |
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Oops, Ill get me coat
Rgds
Richie
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tks
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| posted on 5/3/06 at 05:20 PM |
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mhhh
Are the savage button leds already 12volts ready??
When i put 5volts on the button it lights beutifully!! but offcourse don't know what happens when 12volts are feeded..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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RichieC
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| posted on 26/4/06 at 01:12 AM |
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Anyone had any more thoughts about this one? Or indeed any component details?
Im currently about to replace my switches in the loom with Savage ones.
Thanks
Rich
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